john gill

Well,there is a lot of iron scrap in the way for the oil to properly drain back to the oil pan.
Åke

WHat he said

ptuomov

These kinds of disagreements (you and Åke vs. me) are what makes these projects interesting!

ptuomov

I'm selling the previous pistons and rods from the two engines being built: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post16745015

ptuomov

Another update:

ptuomov

The exhaust manifolds are on, still looking good:

Strosek Ultra

I can see an oil pan spacer. What oil pan gaskets are used, one silicon gasket and one cork gasket?
Åke

belgiumbarry

and why 2 different ones ? if one chooses the "best" material for the gasket , whatever it may be , why not use the same ??

ptuomov

Despite it being a huge pain in the a$$ to install and accommodate one, the wet sump 928 engines need that spacer.

John is testing a couple of things on how to seal the oil pan, the spacer, and the block. The second engine will get a different solution for testing purposes.

My personal beliefs is that it’s best to glue the spacer with a sealant to the block and then use a gasket between the spacer and the pan, but we’ll see if there’s any difference.

Strosek Ultra

Tuomo, you should use my oil pan gaskets but I am allowed to post about it anymore. I will send you a mail.
Åke

belgiumbarry

Thanks , if i understand it correct , spacer to block is a "permanent" glue seal between the 2 "massive" surfaces, the pan , with recesses between the bolts to provide more clamping pressure/square inch ,has the removable gasket .

Lizard928

For the oil pan and spacers, I have not used a gasket for many many years.
My preference is Hondabond 4.
I have also tested successfully anaerobic sealant such as loctite 518, as well as Permatex "the right stuff".
Hondabond 4 is grey though and blends in with the aluminium so it is much more invisible than the others.

SwayBar

Interesting information.

All of the surfaces involved are apparently flat since it works as you describe.

Additionally impressive because it is such a pain to repair/replace an oil pan leak, yet you continue to not use a gasket, thus, it must work.

ptuomov

My personal opinion is that you need one gasket with some compliance in it somewhere in the sandwich for a street car. This is in case the oil pan hits something, you need a small shock absorber there. Also, if one inspects the rod bearings etc. frequently, oil pan glued to the block is a royal pain. So I’m in favor of a gasket in between the oil pan and the spacer.

In terms of the spacer, I would glue it to the block with sealant. It will provide additional rigidity to the block and doesn’t usually need to come off while the engine is in the car. The rigidity point is mostly theoretical for 100mm bore and stock stroke engines.

ptuomov

The theoretical launch date is becoming practical reality with the first of these ”8K” engines:

Rob Edwards

They go back together quicker the second (?) time around. Looking forward to the launch.