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Old 02-23-2010, 09:07 PM
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928 at last
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Originally Posted by jeff spahn
Greg at Precision told me my knock sensor was not functioning (taped up and out of the way is how he put it). What is this downside to this. I only run 92 Octane, drive like an old lady (cept when I mashed it and throttle stuck open).
Am I missing out on power. My car kind of feels doggy.

Thanks,
Jeff, with some of the old threads you've dug up here, that you haven't hit at least one on the relationship between the knock sensors / Hall Sensor/ and even the crank sensor. I'm redoing all as the WYAIT bug bit with the intake off.

Check this link (thread started by Red Shark 1990 April 2008)

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=63671

Getting the timing right will make a world of difference. (So I've been told)!
Old 02-23-2010, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jeff spahn
Greg at Precision told me my knock sensor was not functioning (taped up and out of the way is how he put it). What is this downside to this. I only run 92 Octane, drive like an old lady (cept when I mashed it and throttle stuck open).
Am I missing out on power. My car kind of feels doggy.

Thanks,
I did????
Old 02-24-2010, 12:01 AM
  #18  
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Okay so I found the front knock sensor and the connector is all gone. just three pins. i took the loose pins out. deox'd them and put heat shrink tubing around them so they don't touch whilst in the plug. I imagine after looking at the WSM you need to take the intake off to do this so I don't think I'll be doing this tonight or this weekend. As the pins were just plugged in the connector I hope they were in the right way. I'll try to figure it out from the WSM but that's not my strong point. I can wrench anything apart and reassemble it. Electronic diagnosis, not so much.
Anyone know off the top of their head what pin/color wire connects to what on the front knock sensor? Also, without a hammer will I just know it works cause the car goes faster now? I never hear any knock on 91 octane
Old 02-24-2010, 12:08 AM
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Jeff, with the sensor disabled/malfunctioning, the EZK retards the ignition timing as if it was hearing knocks. The fact that you don't hear knocking is not any indication of the condition of the sensor.
Old 02-24-2010, 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
I did????
yes, Greg, don't you remember? Its your rubber and metal robot surrogate that travels the country - and dispenses advice for free while you slave away in the OC.
Old 02-24-2010, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
I did????
Yep when I was in for my PPI. Its a good thing, just took me 4 months to remember you said that when I was out there.

I am not saying you told me not to do or not do anything beyond that. I stated it because I was asking people what I could be a reason my car feels kind of sluggish. Your telling me it was taped up was what prompted me to go look at it as a possible source for the dogginess. If you hadn't told me this as part of the PPI I wouldn't have even thought of it.

Now I can do an intake rebuild and fix them while I am at it.

The oil cooler was the other thing. If you hadn't seen that, I could have been stranded in bumblefart who knows where on my drive home.

So once again your very thorough PPI has come through for me.

Thanks. Any other shop that just fixes cars in general wouldn't have noticed these things. Your experience even has delayed results!
Old 02-24-2010, 07:11 AM
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jeff spahn
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Originally Posted by 928 at last
Jeff, with some of the old threads you've dug up here, that you haven't hit at least one on the relationship between the knock sensors / Hall Sensor/ and even the crank sensor. I'm redoing all as the WYAIT bug bit with the intake off.

Check this link (thread started by Red Shark 1990 April 2008)

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=63671

Getting the timing right will make a world of difference. (So I've been told)!
I'm just slow I guess. It took me 4 months to make the connection with what Greg told me during the PPI. That prompted the search and the digging up.

I run three businesses and my brain is full most of the time so it takes a while for some of this stuff to find the proper home.
Old 02-24-2010, 10:26 AM
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If you've reconnected the kock sensor, then just do a battery disconnect to clear the fault code and then a test drive. The car should then have recovered.....
Old 02-24-2010, 11:25 AM
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Thanks John. I did not know to do that. I'll try it at lunch time and see how the drive goes one way vs the other.



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