BC

I have no original thoughts or advice. It is only regurgitated info from Todd. And you. And then it may not work anyway because something got lost in translation to my addled brain.

BC

Nope. Just solid chunks of cheese curd and ice matrix.

IcemanG17

He does....I bought a set for the widow....that quickly blew up, but it had nothing to do with the spacer or windage trays which are very well made

blown 87

My toes cant take much more of this global warming.

GregBBRD

Absolutely. They require a pan spacer...which requires a smaller starter and an oil pick-up spacer kit...other than that, they bolt right in....

GregBBRD

The "new" trays are better that the old ones. If you have the old ones out, send them back to me and I'll swap them out.

GregBBRD

Well, it worked. Greg's seem to be working perfectly.

Still not sure how important it is to stand on one foot and hop two turns in the clockwise direction...but they work...who am I to be critical?

IcemanG17

Greg
I go have them....will get them in the mail ASAP

GregBBRD

Good. You hopefully still have the pan spacer, since the trays will not work without it.

Rob Edwards

More progress yesterday, Greg and I installed lifters, cams, and timing belt today. I think the break-in oil is going to be about 5% assembly lube…


Here’s the starting point today:



First go the lash caps,


Lay the lifters and cams in place:




And install the tensioner . Easy Peasy 




Next day is intake and ancillaries, whenever I can sneak away again. I put the tranny/TT/ rear suspension back on the car today, so we're getting closer to having a running vehicle .

IcemanG17

wow that looks GREAT....stunning really

GregBBRD

What the pictures don't show is us bolting on and testing Rob's Porkensioner....at length. I have pictures of this "experiment", that I'll post tomorrow.

After all the abuse I took about not using this assembly on my engines, I thought that I should bolt it on and see how it looked and worked....especially since I couldn't get any actual data about the forces involved with the belt tensioner....just retortic.

The results of our testing were...not very good. The Porkensioner held the belt at 3.6, using the factory tool to measure the belt tension. (The tensioner warning light comes on at 3.7 +/- .2 "belt units"....so this is way too loose.) We tested this many times....taking measurements immediately after rotating the engine and measurements at different intervals of time. Pretty consistant. This tensioner will hold the belt at 3.4 to 3.8 belt units again and again. If we forced the tensioner pulley into the belt and made the gauge read 5.0 (which is the correct tension) the Porkensioner would extend to take up the slack, but then retrack when we released the additional force.

The other thing that we observed was that indeed, the actual piston on the Audi tensioner did move when we turned the engine over....but it never extended past the "3.8 position"....it only got shorter.

My conclusion is that this tensioner will securely hold this belt at 3.6 to 3.8 belt units...and will only get looser than this amount of force....never tighter. That's not tight enough.

This was exactly my fear. Note that the stock tensioner and pieces were installed on this engine by the end of the day.

blown 87

That does not sound good Greg.

GregBBRD

I'm waiting to see what I did wrong....

PorKen

And yet the belt stays on...on hundreds of 928 (and hundreds of thousands of Audi) engines, and counting. From Canada cold to Australian hot, at 200 mph on the dyno, to 6700 rpm at WOT on the street.

Your methodology, and conclusions would be neat, if you were testing a tensioner like the one picture below (which the stock one is in practice), but don't work when applied to a reactive tensioner like the PKsn'r. You can't measure the tension with a spring loaded gauge without the tensioner reacting to the added tension of the measurement itself. Duh.


The belt must be very tight with the factory system so that the belt can stay on the crank gear, especially when the engine is cold, because the factory detensioner can't react in any significant way to belt tension reduction. As the engine warms, the detensioner may reduce tension according to engine temp (not actual belt stress) slightly, but there is always more tension than is necessary, reducing the life of bearings, and eating horsepower. No real damping makes for uneven spikes and valleys of tension, which makes the belt flap, changes cam timing, and reduces the life of the belt and other components.



PS: I was happy to read that noone was harmed by the 'backforce' during these proceedings.