vbatla

Are these water pumps any good?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-P...#ht_1128wt_923

SeanR

That is the one thing (of many) you don't want to go cheap on. I'd not use those.

vbatla

Flywheel Lock came in today. Time to get to work....

ROG100

Those are Hamburg Technic water pumps and a no no. The quality was not good.

ROG100

I have a ton of air pumps around the workshop that we have taken off cars.
Also a brand new one in the box.
Roger

vbatla

Figured as much. Going to dive in and see what all it's going to take to bring this thing back to life...

SteveG

Vbat: I don't want to imply anything by this suggestion, but do you have [edit to correct] John Kelly's book or I would suggest Dwayne's write up (based solely on his other work - I have not read the TB thread) to aid in this job? It will answer many questions; this thread is already 13 pages and hit some OT areas w/o discussing the job itself; it is a minefield for a newby. A photographic memory helps: Bag and mark wp bolts, they are not all the same length, one or two need RTV, getting the balancer off and the thrust washer replaced correctly, just to name a couple; RL is here to help, but it's just easier.

Imo000

My brother's '89 did too. HC was a bit on the high side but it passed.

Imo000

Maybe commenting on soemthign that you have no first hand experience is not a good idea either.

PorKen

They stopped looking under the hood here more than a few years ago, no longer do roller testing, and we don't have clean rooms. I've passed smog with L-Jet and LH-Jet, in a good state of tune, with newer O2 sensors and stock cats, but without the airpump (atmo gas vapor and crank vent too, stock and my chips) with no problem. HC goes from zero to more than zero, but well below the standard, and they all have passed on the first pass.

On the 928, air is injected in the rear third of the cat(s) to reduce HC (the front part is for NOx, I had this assbackwards for many years). Without air the cat will run cooler. At WOT, stock AFRs go into the 12's and the bypass valve under the airbox diverts air from the cats to the airbox so the cat(s) don't overheat.

AFAIK, you need serious engine problems to plug up a cat.

vbatla

That's interesting. If the CAT runs cooler without the air pump then that's the way for me to go. I was concerned that the CAT would run hotter, resulting in heat coming up through the console. Not good for a Texas car...

danglerb

You mean like you commenting on me?

My point of reference are the troubles people have gotten into on the Mustang groups taking off air pumps, or more commonly going to a shorter belt and skipping them. In Calif thats tampering, and removes any limit to the cost the owner has to bear in getting a car to pass the smog inspection.

I also have a bit of a bias against the if it makes more smog it must make more hp school of thought, many control systems don't work well with parts of them tinkered with.

PorKen

It still going to be hot. Fix your motor mounts, or put a (12 x 3 x 3/4") piece of sheet rubber between the oil pan and the crossmember to help seal the console.

If you want to run cool, a X-pipe is what you want. Coolant temps will drop too.

Mrmerlin

replace the water pump bolts go to ACE hardware they sell the correct lengths
If you swap out the oil pump gear the updated version is steel the new gear is installed without the 1mm spacer thats behind the aluminum gear.
Also consider replacing the oil pump O ring and radial seal as well as the 3 O ring seals under each bolt

Stromius

Great advise I also got. I soaked them in Kroil/PB Blaster, tapped them with small hammers etc etc. Here's what they look like (eek). Note some didn't any of the PB/Kroil despite a day of liberal application.