nord

Thanks Mark.
I will start putting it back togheter and move on to checking compression,fuel pressure,spark and for vaccum leaks.
Orderd new cap's and rotor's for my distributor's beacuse the old one's looked worn.
And if it all check's out fine i guess it is a LH-failure...?,maf...,EZK..?
Does not have the tikking injector's.

Ron.

nord

Hi again!
Well,got it back togheter and installed new rotor's,rotorcap's and plug wires.
Sorted my balancer and adjusted my timing belt with my kempf tool.
Noticed when i drained the oil that it was gasolin in it...guess i have flooded
my engine when trying to start it.
Also changed the driver side damper behind the engine beacuse i could smell gasolin from the vaccum lead.
Tryed starting...it fiers up,jumps up to about 3000 rpm then dies out.
Going to try and put pressure on my intake tomorrow and search for vaccum leaks and meassure my fuel pressure.
Any more ideas on this issue?

Leon Speed

I would do a compression test in any case.

docmirror

Sounds like a massive vacuum leak. Or, something is sticking the throttle plate open.

The principle determining factor in injector pulse width is the air flow measured by the MAF. Start looking all around the MAF area for vacuum leaks. The idle stabilizer valve often gets stuck, and that can be letting in far too much air as well.

nord

Hi!
Ok,done some more testing..
Lh and fuel pump relay = good/can feel,hear it working.
Fuel pump = good/got fuel.
Timing cam belt= good.
Can not find any vaccum leaks visually and no sticking throttle plate.
Did a compression test and found all cylinders to be at 13 bar more ore less.
Also measured resistance on MAF between pin 3-6 and 3-5 and found it to be 385 ohm and 4,2 ohm.
If i disconnect MAF it will idle at a bout 2500-3000 rpm but it's not firing on all 8...all 8 spark plugs are wet with gas after i have started it.
Hooked up a inductiv timing light to my plug cables to see if every spark plug got power and it seems like some of them are dead/irregular sparking.
Need to do some more testing to see if they are all on the same distributor.
Coil issue maybe..

Mrmerlin

each distributor fires 2 cylinders from each bank.
You can try swapping the igniter harnesses just in front of the headlight bar see if the spark jumps to the other wires

the flyin' scotsman

you changed the distributers, rotors and spark plug wires..............its very possible to the get spark plug wires mixed up.............worth a double check.

nord

The problem was ther before i changed plug wires and is still ther..
Guess i need to find wich cylinders that fiers and wich dont and take it from ther.

nord

Hi!
Ok,so her is what i have found out..
If i hook up my timing lamp i get indication that i have power in all 8 plug wires.
Tried swappping igniters harness but did not make any difference.
Too see if it's only running on one of the distributors i tried starting with only cylinder 1-4-6-7 (passenger side) then cylinder 2-3-5-8 (driver side) connected and it started.
Did not sound the same so i tried too start with only cylinder 1-2-3-4 connected and it started.
Then tried the same with only cylinder 5-6-7-8 connected...did not start like on the other side,backfired/almost started a few times.
So then i took out the spark and they have fuel..
Also noticed that if i pull the vaccum hose pointed to on the picture below it is fuel in it..
So what do you guys think...can this fuel damper be the source of my problems?
Can't see how it could be a ignition problem..?



ps.not my car.

Ron.

Mrmerlin

if you pulled off a vacuum line from one of the dampers and it has fuel in it then it needs to be replaced it is flooding your engine, check the oil to see if it smell like gas, Chances are if one of the damers are leaking then the other may also be close behind , so i suggest to replace both dampers and the fuel pressure regulator
The dampers are on the left fuel rail the FPR is on the rear of the right fuel rail

Leon Speed

I would change the damper regardless, because it leaks. A few posts ago you said you have dead/irregular sparking. Why would you say you don't see how it is an ignition problem then? Just to understand. I would also check the coils and coil leads for corrosion and measure the spark plug wires for resistance (in fact, I would replace them all if they weren't fairly new but it's costly). Also do a 'firefly' test: spray some mist on the wires and start the car in the dark to see if any wires are leaking. Do you know how old the flywheel impulse sender is? Maybe I missed it, but did you verify correct timing on the belt?

nord

I checked/changed my engine oil when i turned my balancer and yes ther was gasolin in it..
Ther are new plug wires,distributor cap's and rotor's...i said i had dead/irregular sparking but it turned out it was just the ignition lamp i was using that had some issue's.
Verifyed correct timing.

the flyin' scotsman

If one or both fuel dampers and/or the fuel regular are leaking you need to change them now then change the engine oil and filter again.

nord

Yupp,going to order the parts over the weekend...hope it takes care of all my problems!

Bill Ball

Temporarily pull the vac off the leaky damper and plug the vac line and damper connection and see how it does then. Regardless, you need to replace the damper, but this temporary test might help you be sure that's all it is.