nord

The belt on the sprockets look fine..the loose bolt you can see is one i put ther so nothing to think about.
But i'm thinking a balancer put on the wrong way can not suddenly cause my engine to malfunction...

mark kibort

I dont know how far your timing is off due to this, or who installed the damper backwards, but it could just be that the timing is off and now you cant get it started. How well did it run before? how long ago did someone have the balancer off the car?

the car doesnt run very well with the cam timing off, and I dont know how far you are off based on someone that timed it with the balancer so far out of position.

mk

nord

I had a shop do the the TB/WP service so i guess they put the balancer on the wrong way.

mark kibort

both sides are good in relation to each other, but dont know how far things will be off when putting the balancer on the right way. if you are 3 teeth off for example, (on one cam) the car barely runs, thats 15 degrees on the crank for each tooth! so, 3 teeth is the crank being off 45 degrees. If your timing is off 45 degrees, it might run, but not very well.

it will be interesting to see how far the reversed balancer makes things off.

mk

nord

Anyone got a suggestion on how i should do this?
Just turn the cam sprockets so the marks allign then loosen the balancer and turn it?

Hilton

The balancer fits over the woodruff key. You'll need to completely remove the crank bolt, and the accessory belts/pulleys to get to it. Then pull the balancer off, flip it over, and put it back on so the numbers are the correct way up when read from in front of the car.

You don't need to remove the timing belt to do this. Once you can reliably set the crank to 45 degrees to avoid valve collision, and use a flywheel lock, then I'd deal with the timing belt.

davek9

If you mean turn the cam sprockets by turning the crank by the pulley bolt until the cam timing marks align than yes.
Lock the Flywheel with a Flywheel locking tool at the bell housing.
Remove the Crank bolt, after loosening all the accessory belts 
Remove the Crank Pulley Bolt (27mm) I think, and you will need a long bar for leverage (~250 foot lbs).

Once the Crank bolt is removed you can just remove the accessory drive pulleys and then flip the balancer around. The Timing belt won’t move on the Crank Drive Gear.

Then reassemble the crank drive pulleys (don’t tighten all the belts, just yet).
Remove the Flywheel lock and see where you’re at with the timing marks, if they are OK then reassemble (and tighten all the belts).

If not the Cams need to be re-set, it is possible to do them w/o totally removing the front of the engine but it is going to depend on how far they are out.

Please let us know what U find.

DaveK9

jcorenman

Never mind ... what he said ^^^

Tampa 928s

One other note I have personally found two balancers that slipped and can drive you crazy trying to set the timing. Just make sure the balancer is not turning on it's self, you are probably OK but just check it in case.

jeff spahn

Uh guys. How about he takes it back to the shop and they do it for free? He paid them to do a TB/WP change and they put it together wrong. Now as I see it, he doesn't have a problem but the shop has a HUGE problem.

Am I missing the boat on this one?

the flyin' scotsman

No your not Jeff but most of us do all our own work hence the comments.

After all its because we do our own work we can diagnose these types of issues.

If it were me I'd have the car towed to another shop to get an estimate on repair..............how can he trust the clowns who messed up before.

nord

Taking it back to the shop is not a option. I've moved since it was done and the shop is a bit away.
The TB/WP job was done in the spring of 2007 and it worked fine for about a week.

Then it started acting up with rough idle and i Changed idle stabillizer,vakkum elbows,hoses,floppy valve vaakum unit,knock sensors,injector seal's and gaskets,i had them avalible as i was planing to do this job but with no differense on the engine's running performance.
Then i changed temp II and the car started running almost normal again.
Was not totally pleased..had a felling it was not as strong as before.

In early 2008 i started having idelling troble again and some hesitations when driving on low rpm..my exhaust smelt like it was running rich and my cats was very warm after driving.
It stopped sometimes while idelling.

I had a new x-pipe i was planning installing so i did...also changed my o2-sensor.
Got better but still kinda erratic on low rpm's and rich i think...and then it started to get worse fast.
When i tryed to start, it started.. but revd right up to about 3k then died

Then i discoverd that my plug leads was no good..looked like "fireflyes" under my hood when it was dark outside and the car was put away.
That brings us up to date..changed my plug leads and hopped for the best but no.
It starts for a few seconds then stops...

Started searching for problems yesterday.
-fuel pump good.
-fuel pump relay good.
-LH unit relay good.
-Got spark.
-got fuel.
-Good spark plugs.
-not suspecting any vacuum leaks.(going to do some more testing)
-Compresion not tested.
-Timing belt...well,balancer wrong way.

Ron.

the flyin' scotsman

Its good to read your working on the car yourself.

Lets concentrate on getting the damper the correct way and set the cam timing and go from there.

odurandina

porsche mechanic

docmirror

Remember where I said to start over? You have to start over.

*Get the acc belts loose, remove the crank bolt.
*Take out the right front spark plug(#1).
*Remove the balancer(damper), turn it around, and put it on the right way, check to make sure you have the washer facing correct too. Put the crank bolt back in semi-tight.
*Now, line up the timing mark T|0 on the balancer with the red timing tick.
*Stick a long screwdriver in hole #1, rock the crank back and forth, to insure you're actually on TDC.
*Reset the timing mark to the T|0 position.
*Inspect your timing marks on the back side of the two cam pulleys and see that they are lined up with the recess tick in the backing plate.
*If not(I think they won't be), Loosen the tensioner a lot and pull the timing belt off the cams.
*Put a wrench on the left cam bolt and line it up. Draw the belt tight around the crank, oil pump and left cam. If you meet solid resistance, don't force it, you are hitting a piston with the valve and will have to move the crank a few degrees clockwise away from TDC. Then, once the cam is timed to the back plate, put the crank back on T|0 and proceed.
*Keep tension on the belt and go around the water pump.
*Line up the right cam on the tick mark with a wrench on the cam bolt, it will want to spring back.
*fit the belt around the right cam, tension the belt and check with a tension tool.
*Rotate the engine twice around by hand, and recheck your marks on the cam pulleys.
*Tighten the crank bolt to torque.
*Check your ignition wire routing very carefully, as the shop may have moved them to get it to run right.
*Install all your acc belts and shrouds.