What to do with bad block?
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I'm starting to get an '86 5-sp up and running. It suffered a broken timing belt and bent at least 6 valves. It then spent 8 months at some regular car shop where they took the heads off and who knows what else they butchered.
I bought the car and found an engine with a bad block. The owner had run the car up on a curb ripping the A/C compressor off. It broke both parts of the block and took off half of the pan. My plan is to take the heads off of this
engine and install them on the '86.
Is there any value to the the crank, rods, and pistons in the bad-block
engine? Anybody want or need them?
What should I do with the block? Will an aluminum recycler take it? I've seen tables made with the block. Are there plans or parts to make a table?
TIA,
Brian
'86 928 5-sp projectcar
'83 928S racecar
'87 938S4 streetcar
I bought the car and found an engine with a bad block. The owner had run the car up on a curb ripping the A/C compressor off. It broke both parts of the block and took off half of the pan. My plan is to take the heads off of this
engine and install them on the '86.
Is there any value to the the crank, rods, and pistons in the bad-block
engine? Anybody want or need them?
What should I do with the block? Will an aluminum recycler take it? I've seen tables made with the block. Are there plans or parts to make a table?
TIA,
Brian
'86 928 5-sp projectcar
'83 928S racecar
'87 938S4 streetcar
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Recycle the block? Has to equal a ton of aluminium cans. ![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
If it hit hard enough to break off the pan and the motor mounts, I would not trust the crank and rods. You might get a couple bucks on ebay, but it's hit and miss.
Coffee Table, BBQ.
Parachute for drag racing, just toss it out the hatch after 1/4 mile.
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If it hit hard enough to break off the pan and the motor mounts, I would not trust the crank and rods. You might get a couple bucks on ebay, but it's hit and miss.
Coffee Table, BBQ.
Parachute for drag racing, just toss it out the hatch after 1/4 mile.
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85 PISTONS are worth something. thats the basic ingredient for the 5 liter 2valve. However, you need to find someone taking a 4.7 and boring it out too 100mm. OR, someone doing the conversion that cant find an 85 block, and / or only has access to an S4 block and is doing the conversion.
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Don't pistons need to fit the block, so swapping pistons between blocks would be hit and miss? and boring out a 4.7L isn't too common is it?
I think you should plan on a complete valve job regardless of which motor you take the heads from.
Other parts off the bad block are desirable, the air filter box is NLA, good timing belt covers and parts are wanted, flywheel, etc. The bare short block if the block is damaged seems about the only part nobody wants.
I think you should plan on a complete valve job regardless of which motor you take the heads from.
Other parts off the bad block are desirable, the air filter box is NLA, good timing belt covers and parts are wanted, flywheel, etc. The bare short block if the block is damaged seems about the only part nobody wants.
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Thanks for the info. I'll go ahead and take the pistons/rods/crank out of the block
and see what they fetch and throw the block away.
After this I'll be doing a detailed inventory of the engine parts that came with the car.
Then part with the extra parts such as the cams, extra intake, timing belt covers.
Thanks,
Brian
and see what they fetch and throw the block away.
After this I'll be doing a detailed inventory of the engine parts that came with the car.
Then part with the extra parts such as the cams, extra intake, timing belt covers.
Thanks,
Brian
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I think you might find someone who would be interested in the block if you're just throwing it away. I've got a cooked block that I'm hoping to convert into a coffee table. Jason said he'd like to do the coffee table thing with it. How about putting it up for anyone who can come get it?
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I might be able to use the rods and crank for a potentially destructive experiment. Depending on the price, of course. pm me or email me at <my user name>@gmail.com.
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pulling the studs is SUCH a PITA
Agreed, but the block studs are worth saving, as they're NLA from anywhere. You just need to double nut the stud, heat the crap out of the block and turn the stud out. If you're straining on the wrench, the block isn't hot enough.
FWIW, I bought a set of those stud remover sockets and managed to ruin about 3 of the studs by not heating the block enough. I ended up buying a TBF block from Mark A just to harvest the studs via the doublenut/heat recipe.... (I then gave the block to Greg for practice for his WP impelller repair tool)
So - save the studs!
EDIT - at least the girdle studs. Dunno if the head studs are still available. (Which of course begs the question- can one use S4 head bolts with S3 heads/blocks?)
Last edited by Rob Edwards; 10-26-2009 at 02:55 PM.
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When I was researching parts while I was preparing to build my S3 engine, I read somewhere that you can upgrade to the S4 style head bolts from the S3 style studs/nuts. Once I read how much of a bitch it is to remove the studs though, I decided to leave them and get new head nuts. IIRC, the only real benifit changing from the studs to bolts is the ability to remove the heads while the engine is in the car right?
Make a table. At least yours is broken to the point that even if someone comes up with a perfect fix for TBF you won't be tempted to sell your coffee table...
Make a table. At least yours is broken to the point that even if someone comes up with a perfect fix for TBF you won't be tempted to sell your coffee table...