Sears Point -Infinion Raceway 9-09 UPDATE/RESULTs HOLBERT CAR DESTROYED BY CIVIC.
09-09-2009, 08:32 PM
#182
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... What would we think if someone took the all-stainless 928 out of the museum and tracked it? Or one of the prototypes? Or Kermit? Or the last 928 GTS ever made? Or Ferry's modified 928?
There should be some self-imposed limits to the fate of historical or milestone cars... maybe it's just me that thinks this?
There should be some self-imposed limits to the fate of historical or milestone cars... maybe it's just me that thinks this?
09-09-2009, 09:36 PM
#183
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09-09-2009, 09:40 PM
#184
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if it helps i have the "assesing body damage guide" for the 928 around here some where. it has all the measurements a shop would need i think. Actually, i havent looked but it may be buried in Jims CD manual collection also?
09-09-2009, 09:50 PM
#185
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Looking at the pictures of the shortened car, the cracked bellhousing, and the cramping in the engine bay, I strongly recommend that you DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE until it's sitting correctly in a new chassis. Way too much risk of doing more damage to it, notwithstanding that small issue of FIRE if there are any damaged fuel system components.
Get the battery out, fuel tank pumped out and removed, and start on the external pieces that you will need for the new chassis. Find out from MA what's already on his roller, and get some pictures of it to see what will be needed from the old car to go on the new one. If there really is a possibility of making a museum piece out of the old car, take only what you will need for the new one or can use for practical spares.
I've had a few episodes like this, admittedly none of them with a car with this history though. In each case I moved all my race running gear to a roller, got it painted and dressed up, and went back at it again. Twice there were opportunities for serious upgrades, and of course all the previous learnings made the 'new'' car much better than the old. The cold truth is that the old chassis and tubs were just replaceable parts, sacrificed as part of the learning process. Like don't try to go into turn one at Riverside four-wide on a rolling restart. Won't do that again...
----
Rest up, heal up the noggin and the ribs, and take a fresh look at the project again when time has helped your perspective a bit more.
My too sense...
09-09-2009, 10:19 PM
#186
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How about this:
http://www.pbase.com/atrltd/image/46317474
Every car in this photo is worth a lot more than almost any 928.
The orange 1969 Corvette belongs to a friend of mine. Originally ran at the 24 of Daytona and 12 hours of Sebring.
Yes, that is a 100% real Shelby American 427 Competition Cobra.
Almost every car in this pile is back on the track racing today.
If it were not for Mark, the Holbert car would have been sent to the crusher over a decade ago, lost forever.
09-09-2009, 10:29 PM
#187
Rennlist Member
How about this:
http://www.pbase.com/atrltd/image/46317474
Every car in this photo is worth a lot more than almost any 928.
The orange 1969 Corvette belongs to a friend of mine. Originally ran at the 24 of Daytona and 12 hours of Sebring.
Yes, that is a 100% real Shelby American 427 Competition Cobra.
Almost every car in this pile is back on the track racing today.
If it were not for Mark, the Holbert car would have been sent to the crusher over a decade ago, lost forever.
09-10-2009, 12:55 AM
#189
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
oops?
I started it after filling it with water and replacing the slightly damaged coil.
It started right up , but had a lot of rubbing in the bell housing from the cracked upper. when I put the clutch, in , it went away, but still was a little rough. went through the gears. (wheels on and on jack stands) and it seems to be running ok. got it to temp, no leaks at all and pressure in the water system with no leaks afterwards. I dont know if the torque tube is damaged or what, but at least we the engine looks to be in good shape. oil looks clean from the dipstick.
I got the wheel out from being burried in the chassis. that was a lot of work, even after pulling all but 3 of the bolts from the lower control arm. Man, that thing is a beast! you dont find parts like that on most cars!
mk
I started it after filling it with water and replacing the slightly damaged coil.
It started right up , but had a lot of rubbing in the bell housing from the cracked upper. when I put the clutch, in , it went away, but still was a little rough. went through the gears. (wheels on and on jack stands) and it seems to be running ok. got it to temp, no leaks at all and pressure in the water system with no leaks afterwards. I dont know if the torque tube is damaged or what, but at least we the engine looks to be in good shape. oil looks clean from the dipstick.
I got the wheel out from being burried in the chassis. that was a lot of work, even after pulling all but 3 of the bolts from the lower control arm. Man, that thing is a beast! you dont find parts like that on most cars!
mk
Mark-
Looking at the pictures of the shortened car, the cracked bellhousing, and the cramping in the engine bay, I strongly recommend that you DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE until it's sitting correctly in a new chassis. Way too much risk of doing more damage to it, notwithstanding that small issue of FIRE if there are any damaged fuel system components.
Get the battery out, fuel tank pumped out and removed, and start on the external pieces that you will need for the new chassis. Find out from MA what's already on his roller, and get some pictures of it to see what will be needed from the old car to go on the new one. If there really is a possibility of making a museum piece out of the old car, take only what you will need for the new one or can use for practical spares.
I've had a few episodes like this, admittedly none of them with a car with this history though. In each case I moved all my race running gear to a roller, got it painted and dressed up, and went back at it again. Twice there were opportunities for serious upgrades, and of course all the previous learnings made the 'new'' car much better than the old. The cold truth is that the old chassis and tubs were just replaceable parts, sacrificed as part of the learning process. Like don't try to go into turn one at Riverside four-wide on a rolling restart. Won't do that again...
----
Rest up, heal up the noggin and the ribs, and take a fresh look at the project again when time has helped your perspective a bit more.
My too sense...
Looking at the pictures of the shortened car, the cracked bellhousing, and the cramping in the engine bay, I strongly recommend that you DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE until it's sitting correctly in a new chassis. Way too much risk of doing more damage to it, notwithstanding that small issue of FIRE if there are any damaged fuel system components.
Get the battery out, fuel tank pumped out and removed, and start on the external pieces that you will need for the new chassis. Find out from MA what's already on his roller, and get some pictures of it to see what will be needed from the old car to go on the new one. If there really is a possibility of making a museum piece out of the old car, take only what you will need for the new one or can use for practical spares.
I've had a few episodes like this, admittedly none of them with a car with this history though. In each case I moved all my race running gear to a roller, got it painted and dressed up, and went back at it again. Twice there were opportunities for serious upgrades, and of course all the previous learnings made the 'new'' car much better than the old. The cold truth is that the old chassis and tubs were just replaceable parts, sacrificed as part of the learning process. Like don't try to go into turn one at Riverside four-wide on a rolling restart. Won't do that again...
----
Rest up, heal up the noggin and the ribs, and take a fresh look at the project again when time has helped your perspective a bit more.
My too sense...
09-10-2009, 05:34 PM
#192
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09-10-2009, 09:17 PM
#194
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Just noticed that the NSX broke and is not signed up for Laguna. And, just found out that the Monster Mustang has its crank welded to its pilot bearing and shaft. Im in 2nd right now in the points and there are 2 weekends, 5 races left. Unreal! Scot just called me and offered his car for the race at laguna this weekend. I either run his car, or Darrell anderson is twisting my arm to drive a spare car of his, a spec RX7. (but will require more logicstical issues with trailer, travel, etc) Scots might be simpler and faster, but I need to change out his power steering line and change his oil . (and fix some front end damage he had from the race. he bumped into the other mustang and he cant get his hood open.
)
I kind of wrote off the season and now im getting egged on to keep running and possibly grab 2nd place in the championship.
) I kind of wrote off the season and now im getting egged on to keep running and possibly grab 2nd place in the championship.
09-10-2009, 09:22 PM
#195
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You're going to need one of those karting vests to keep your bruised ribs intact. In fact, you go out and pull significant G's for any period of time this weekend and you're gonna be even more sore than you are now. Don't come back next Monday and claim we didn't warn you.....
P.S. 800 mg of Ibuprofen before the race, and 800 mg at the end of the day.
P.S. 800 mg of Ibuprofen before the race, and 800 mg at the end of the day.