Broken WP bolt
Rest in Peace
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From: Bird lover in Sharpsburg
Edit: In regard to thermal shock, if you heat the unit up with a hand torch (kinda risky given that you'd be putting a flame on a gasoline engine), and then you can use a mixture of dry ice and acetone or denatured alcohol to cool it rapidly. You can switch back and forth between the two to generate thermal shock to break it loose
In the couple of seconds you are welding the bolt will turn red hot.
You would have to keep a torch on that spot for a while to get the bolt red and then the surrounding metal would get very hot also.
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From: Southern Alberta, Canada
Malcolm,
I have a very lightly used small MIG that would be perfect for this type of work. I dont need it as I have a Miller 252 now. I would let you have it for $600, comes with everything but a bottle. For some gas money I could even drive it out to you this weekend and help you zap a nut on and get that out.
If it doesnt work. I have drill bits and a helicoil of that size.
Shoot me off an email if you are interested.
I have a very lightly used small MIG that would be perfect for this type of work. I dont need it as I have a Miller 252 now. I would let you have it for $600, comes with everything but a bottle. For some gas money I could even drive it out to you this weekend and help you zap a nut on and get that out.
If it doesnt work. I have drill bits and a helicoil of that size.
Shoot me off an email if you are interested.
I'm headed to town this morning to see what they have............I'll be back to you.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Central Virginia
At the meta-level the point of my post was: if you don't first use a method that's virtually-certain to deal with the bolt, other, less-certain methods may damage the bolt to the point where the original virtually-certain method is now not-so certain.
I'd never use an easy-out until I'd drilled a crap-load of the bolt out. And then, if the e-o doesn't work immediately I'd think of something else. Have you ever tried to drill-through an easy-out that snapped off and seized IN the bolt? I have. A long time ago. Learned my lesson. Never again. Easy-outs are really not meant for extracting things...
I'd never use an easy-out until I'd drilled a crap-load of the bolt out. And then, if the e-o doesn't work immediately I'd think of something else. Have you ever tried to drill-through an easy-out that snapped off and seized IN the bolt? I have. A long time ago. Learned my lesson. Never again. Easy-outs are really not meant for extracting things...
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&group_ID=1254
The advantage of this type of remover is that you drill as deeply as you can, and the splines of the tool engage their full length, so the tool can take a lot of torque without slipping and buggering everything up. If you use this, use the largest size that won't touch the threads in the block, of course.
Rest in Peace
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From: Bird lover in Sharpsburg
+1 and to add my 2 kopeks- used to have to do this all the time on the exhaust flange studs on Honda MC heads, 6mm studs, probably same grade steel. The very very best tool I found, which only failed once or twice in many ops, is a Snap-On set (maybe others make the same)
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&group_ID=1254
The advantage of this type of remover is that you drill as deeply as you can, and the splines of the tool engage their full length, so the tool can take a lot of torque without slipping and buggering everything up. If you use this, use the largest size that won't touch the threads in the block, of course.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&group_ID=1254
The advantage of this type of remover is that you drill as deeply as you can, and the splines of the tool engage their full length, so the tool can take a lot of torque without slipping and buggering everything up. If you use this, use the largest size that won't touch the threads in the block, of course.
They work well on a through hole, not as well on a blind hole because they are very hard to get out if you break one.
And on a bolt that small, once you drill it you are committed to that method of removal.
Also, if you do try to weld a nut on it, let it cool down before you try to remove it and do not quench it at all.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Nova Scotia
That would be my call as well .... a quick spot of MIG in the center of a M6 nut that you thread onto the stub: work the nut back & forth with a 10mm wrench, and should be prob. solved .
Run a tap down all 13 holes before reassembly, and this may never happen again.
BTW, save the WD-40 for the kitchen drawer slides - use Kroil/PB Blaster ..... need something with ***** for tight nuts ....
Run a tap down all 13 holes before reassembly, and this may never happen again.
BTW, save the WD-40 for the kitchen drawer slides - use Kroil/PB Blaster ..... need something with ***** for tight nuts ....
Track Day
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs
If you do decide to drill the bolt out, get left handed drill set. I used them on water bridge bolts( 3 out of 4 broke) got lucky, drill actually loosened some of the bolts.
78 5 speed
Runs somedays
Butch
78 5 speed
Runs somedays
Butch
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Southern Alberta, Canada
That would be my call as well .... a quick spot of MIG in the center of a M6 nut that you thread onto the stub: work the nut back & forth with a 10mm wrench, and should be prob. solved .
Run a tap down all 13 holes before reassembly, and this may never happen again.
BTW, save the WD-40 for the kitchen drawer slides - use Kroil/PB Blaster ..... need something with ***** for tight nuts ....
Run a tap down all 13 holes before reassembly, and this may never happen again.
BTW, save the WD-40 for the kitchen drawer slides - use Kroil/PB Blaster ..... need something with ***** for tight nuts ....
No Kroil/ PB Blaster at the local farm centre (NAPA) so I got some Sea Foam.........any experience?
I also have a LH drill bit that'll get my started but no Quick Centre tool. I'd like to get it done so I can re-assemble for Mon drive (its a long weekend here)
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From: Central Virginia
Bunch of good stuff - should be the "broken stud" thread in diy or stickie territory. Only to add, and this is probably known by all, but: to get that drill centered, start with a like-new center punch (very important!), grind - if you have to- a flat on the end of the stuff, punch it. Get your eye loupe out and see how far off from center you are. Start drilling at an angle towards the center you missed, occasionally go 90 degrees, than back to the angle until you are satisfied that when the bit is perpendiular to the work piece you are dead center on the stud. Proceed. Usually get really close that way, even on stuff harder than the mild steel we're talking about here.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 9,601
Likes: 39
From: Abbotsford B.C.
You can get MOOVIT at the local stores Malcolm. That stuff works well. But I find when I have this happen I try the MIG, if it doesnt do the job I drill and helicoil it.
Would love to get some M6 coupling nuts for situations like this though!
Would love to get some M6 coupling nuts for situations like this though!
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 1
From: Gatineau/Ottawa Canada 84 928S triple black
A magnet is very useful to remove the metal dust and bits when drilling.....
Mine didn't want to buge at all, had to completly drill it out.
And take your time and you won't need an helicoil.
Remember, diamond tip drill are your friends.
Mine didn't want to buge at all, had to completly drill it out.
And take your time and you won't need an helicoil.
Remember, diamond tip drill are your friends.
Done With Sidepatch
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From: Calgary
Malcolm, I have a Mig welder you are welcome to use...You'll need a 220V hook up and you'll be good to go. The problem is I'm screwed for time to get it down to you...for at least the next 2 weeks...Sorry.
An alternative is I can deliver it to Mrs. Malcolm's workplace if you need it.
An alternative is I can deliver it to Mrs. Malcolm's workplace if you need it.
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: saratoga, ca
did you try a vise grip? when I see a bolt like this, vise grips have never let me down. when you cant see anything past the surface, then drill. you can then, just put in a time cert when you are done monkey'ing around with it.
Thread Starter
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From: Southern Alberta, Canada
Malcolm, I have a Mig welder you are welcome to use...You'll need a 220V hook up and you'll be good to go. The problem is I'm screwed for time to get it down to you...for at least the next 2 weeks...Sorry.
An alternative is I can deliver it to Mrs. Malcolm's workplace if you need it.
An alternative is I can deliver it to Mrs. Malcolm's workplace if you need it.
Mrs Malcolm has already escaped the big city but thats a good thought again.
Hopefully you'll have time off to join us on the Road to the Sun...........no firm dates yet
