There's not enough bolt meat remaining to get a good grip on the FBB; tried a few times now and no go.

Wife just went to town to buy a hand held butane torch which heats to 1300C, I'll just melt the thing out.

 

1300C is abit warm, move in a circle around the area quickly. Spitting on the surface frequently. Once your spit boils on it you wont need to go any hotter.

 

I would suspect - but am not totally sure - that aluminum melts at a far lower temperature than steel. And that aluminum melts at a temperature below 1300C.

Be very careful Malcolm. You might want to get a fire shield while you are at the store.

 

The aluminum will melt around 1200 deg give or take.

But it takes prolonged exposure of that simply waving something that hot over it will not cause it to liquify right away.

 

Dave & Colin..............appreciate the concern but the handheld butane torch is rated for 1300C output and I've no desire to hold it close to the block to get anywhere near that temp.......waving the torch to heat the block is the idea.

Given that I have heat and LH & RH drills and 'Sea Foam' lube tonight my strategy is to soak all night long, drill with a small LHD bit, heat then drill and heat with consectutive bigger RHD bits.

I will use the old WP as a guide once I get close to the bit size.............hopefully its loose beforehand

 

Do not spray oil on the hot bolt.

 

As I said on the phone Malcolm,

Once you get the area hot use that center punch and give the bolt a good smack. Then if you can get anything on it to turn it do that first. Otherwise then drill it out and use a bolt extractor while the area has been heated.

Good luck with it though. I wont be able to make it out I am afraid I got a call from a local fellow who needs me to go and inspect the brakes on his Bentley tomorrow!

 

System one, system 2, fun fun fun..............................

 

This is a simple pad and rotor job (fingers crossed) on a Continental TurboR

 

You will of course need to bed-in the pads when you're done.

 

That should be no problem.
Do they TurboR's have dual calipers up front?

 

Greg, it is a 1990, I dont think that it does. But I will find out tomorrow.

I did however find out that trying to get parts can only really be obtained at the dealer.
$336 for front pads, $394 per front rotor, $259 rear pads, and $375 for rear rotors. All in stock locally except for the rear rotors.

 

I think you forgot the several quarts of Bentley-labeled extra-special aged-reserve brake fluid.

 

Is this the first one you have worked on?
If not, you might want to give me a call, cause they are unlike any other normal car brake system.

Bentley, Rolls and Peugeot are about the only ones I can think of that use that setup.

The spheres are a replacement item, no more than 5 years or 30,000 miles.

 

Major success............many thanks to all for your contributions..........Colin and Mike for there MIG welder offers and Dave for consummate words of wisdom and all others.

After periodic soaking all night in penetrating oil I tried in vain to grab the FBB but it was a non starter. Putting a new point on my punch I center punched the FBB very close to centre. Applying heat with a handheld butane torch I got the surronding block to the 'boil spit test', centre punched again then started to drill. 1st drill was a 7/64 LH bit which took a good amount of time to get through the FBB. Afer that it was a matter of progressively bigger bits until I got very close to the original threads then it was a matter of a sharp pic and then ran a tap through the threads...........c'est fini.

I should add I used the old WP as a drill guide once I got to a bigger drill bit size.

ps..........how did Bentlys get into this thread? I guess Andrew was busy and missed the opp. to introduce Llamas

Again thx to all and hope this help with anyone who has similar issue.