It will not be the same kind of thermal shock you will get from welding a nut on it.

In the couple of seconds you are welding the bolt will turn red hot.
You would have to keep a torch on that spot for a while to get the bolt red and then the surrounding metal would get very hot also.

 

Colin............thats a fantastic offer.

I'm headed to town this morning to see what they have............I'll be back to you.

 

+1 and to add my 2 kopeks- used to have to do this all the time on the exhaust flange studs on Honda MC heads, 6mm studs, probably same grade steel. The very very best tool I found, which only failed once or twice in many ops, is a Snap-On set (maybe others make the same)
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&group_ID=1254
The advantage of this type of remover is that you drill as deeply as you can, and the splines of the tool engage their full length, so the tool can take a lot of torque without slipping and buggering everything up. If you use this, use the largest size that won't touch the threads in the block, of course.

 

I agree, Dave. Martin, this was where I was going as well. More grip from inside the stud.

 

I have used those many many times and they work well, but you do not have much wiggle room for not getting the drill centered on something as small as a WP bolt.
They work well on a through hole, not as well on a blind hole because they are very hard to get out if you break one.

And on a bolt that small, once you drill it you are committed to that method of removal.

Also, if you do try to weld a nut on it, let it cool down before you try to remove it and do not quench it at all.

 

That would be my call as well .... a quick spot of MIG in the center of a M6 nut that you thread onto the stub: work the nut back & forth with a 10mm wrench, and should be prob. solved .

Run a tap down all 13 holes before reassembly, and this may never happen again.

BTW, save the WD-40 for the kitchen drawer slides - use Kroil/PB Blaster ..... need something with ***** for tight nuts ....

 

PB for the win. Wd40 doesn't work as well fir this type of thing.

 

If you do decide to drill the bolt out, get left handed drill set. I used them on water bridge bolts( 3 out of 4 broke) got lucky, drill actually loosened some of the bolts.
78 5 speed
Runs somedays
Butch

 

Thx Garth.

No Kroil/ PB Blaster at the local farm centre (NAPA) so I got some Sea Foam.........any experience?

I also have a LH drill bit that'll get my started but no Quick Centre tool. I'd like to get it done so I can re-assemble for Mon drive (its a long weekend here)

 

Bunch of good stuff - should be the "broken stud" thread in diy or stickie territory. Only to add, and this is probably known by all, but: to get that drill centered, start with a like-new center punch (very important!), grind - if you have to- a flat on the end of the stuff, punch it. Get your eye loupe out and see how far off from center you are. Start drilling at an angle towards the center you missed, occasionally go 90 degrees, than back to the angle until you are satisfied that when the bit is perpendiular to the work piece you are dead center on the stud. Proceed. Usually get really close that way, even on stuff harder than the mild steel we're talking about here.

 

You can get MOOVIT at the local stores Malcolm. That stuff works well. But I find when I have this happen I try the MIG, if it doesnt do the job I drill and helicoil it.

Would love to get some M6 coupling nuts for situations like this though!

 

A magnet is very useful to remove the metal dust and bits when drilling.....

Mine didn't want to buge at all, had to completly drill it out.
And take your time and you won't need an helicoil.

Remember, diamond tip drill are your friends.

 

Malcolm, I have a Mig welder you are welcome to use...You'll need a 220V hook up and you'll be good to go. The problem is I'm screwed for time to get it down to you...for at least the next 2 weeks...Sorry.

An alternative is I can deliver it to Mrs. Malcolm's workplace if you need it.

 

did you try a vise grip? when I see a bolt like this, vise grips have never let me down. when you cant see anything past the surface, then drill. you can then, just put in a time cert when you are done monkey'ing around with it.

 

Mike..............much appreciated but my welding skills may end up doing more damage to the block.

Mrs Malcolm has already escaped the big city but thats a good thought again.

Hopefully you'll have time off to join us on the Road to the Sun...........no firm dates yet