SharkTuner Mk 2
10-08-2009, 03:52 PM
#121
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I'm not sure I follow Andrew's idea on the firewall adjustment. I do the opposite - take as much slack out of the throttle cable as possible by screwing that adjuster out, as long as you still get the idle click reliably and the throttle seats fully when you release it. That will make the WOT come on as early as it can w/o screwing up the idle.
After adjusting this, I now get 100% WOT! (SOB is fast too!
) I thought I'd throw it out there just in case someone else had not considered adjusting their trottle cable.
10-08-2009, 03:53 PM
#122
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What happened with that boost activated WOT switch from DR? I can't seem to find it, now?
10-08-2009, 04:11 PM
#124
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Bill, we might be saying the same thing. Maybe my in is your out. My point is that when I replaced my throttle cable, the replacement gave me only 1/2 the accelerator pedal travel of the other. This meant that when I had the pedal all the way down, I was only getting a little over 1/2 WOT - actual throttle, not the switch.
After adjusting this, I now get 100% WOT! (SOB is fast too!) I thought I'd throw it out there just in case someone else had not considered adjusting their trottle cable.
After adjusting this, I now get 100% WOT! (SOB is fast too!
) I thought I'd throw it out there just in case someone else had not considered adjusting their trottle cable.
10-08-2009, 04:13 PM
#125
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It used to be posted on his site. I think he called it a PowerBoost module or something like that. I cant find it now either. I also dont see a separate listing for his extreme heat exchanger either.
10-08-2009, 05:48 PM
#126
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10-08-2009, 05:53 PM
#127
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The resistance of the two elements relative to each other. Ambient temp is a good start. Other temps a bonus, I assume they will track.
That will tell us if my 2% matching is typical.
I also expect the absolute resistance to be in the ranges shown in the WSM.
Not desperate, we have addressed the main ST issue, but such info is useful for the general understanding of the 928's electronics. Knowledge is power !
Thanks !
That will tell us if my 2% matching is typical.
I also expect the absolute resistance to be in the ranges shown in the WSM.
Not desperate, we have addressed the main ST issue, but such info is useful for the general understanding of the 928's electronics. Knowledge is power !
Thanks !
11-30-2009, 03:16 AM
#128
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Hi all,
I connected up my Sharktuner for the first time this weekend, I have suspected that my Hall sensor was shot, due to a lack of around 40-50 Hp last time I had the car dyno'd....
However, the 'Ignition system monitor' shows a green light for the Hall sensor, but is red for 'Ignition retarded'....
(See screen shots below)
I've searched and read a few threads, so it seems that this is potentially some kind of intermittent error, from either the Hall sensor or knock sensors. (knock sensors replaced 2yrs ago)
Apart from checking the wiring and routing, are there any other issues that could cause this??
I haven't bothered to connect the analogue output of my WBO2 to the sharktuner yet.... but here is a shot of my WBO2 display, taken at idle (same time as pics above)
I connected up my Sharktuner for the first time this weekend, I have suspected that my Hall sensor was shot, due to a lack of around 40-50 Hp last time I had the car dyno'd....
However, the 'Ignition system monitor' shows a green light for the Hall sensor, but is red for 'Ignition retarded'....
(See screen shots below)
I've searched and read a few threads, so it seems that this is potentially some kind of intermittent error, from either the Hall sensor or knock sensors. (knock sensors replaced 2yrs ago)
Apart from checking the wiring and routing, are there any other issues that could cause this??
I haven't bothered to connect the analogue output of my WBO2 to the sharktuner yet.... but here is a shot of my WBO2 display, taken at idle (same time as pics above)
11-30-2009, 03:28 AM
#129
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Hi all,
I connected up my Sharktuner for the first time this weekend, I have suspected that my Hall sensor was shot, due to a lack of around 40-50 Hp last time I had the car dyno'd....
However, the 'Ignition system monitor' shows a green light for the Hall sensor, but is red for 'Ignition retarded'....
(See screen shots below)
I've searched and read a few threads, so it seems that this is potentially some kind of intermittent error, from either the Hall sensor or knock sensors. (knock sensors replaced 2yrs ago)
Apart from checking the wiring and routing, are there any other issues that could cause this??
...
I connected up my Sharktuner for the first time this weekend, I have suspected that my Hall sensor was shot, due to a lack of around 40-50 Hp last time I had the car dyno'd....
However, the 'Ignition system monitor' shows a green light for the Hall sensor, but is red for 'Ignition retarded'....
(See screen shots below)
I've searched and read a few threads, so it seems that this is potentially some kind of intermittent error, from either the Hall sensor or knock sensors. (knock sensors replaced 2yrs ago)
Apart from checking the wiring and routing, are there any other issues that could cause this??
...
John can say more but I think you are correct about it being an intermittent of some sort. I know that an intermittent knock-sensor fault will put it into retard-mode until the ignition is shut off, not sure about a hall-sensor fault.
11-30-2009, 03:55 AM
#130
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If you shut down the engine and restart, does it show the red "knock retard" immediately? Or later? After idling or driving or ??
John can say more but I think you are correct about it being an intermittent of some sort. I know that an intermittent knock-sensor fault will put it into retard-mode until the ignition is shut off, not sure about a hall-sensor fault.
John can say more but I think you are correct about it being an intermittent of some sort. I know that an intermittent knock-sensor fault will put it into retard-mode until the ignition is shut off, not sure about a hall-sensor fault.
I only reversed the car out of the garage and let it idle, so I haven't as yet put the engine under any load with the sharktuner connected.
I tried shutting down and restarting a few times, but the red 'ignition retarded' shows up immediately.
Though as you can see in the screen shot, it doesn't show any knock retard per cylinder.... should it show the amount of retard, under 'knock retard'??
11-30-2009, 05:59 AM
#131
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Hi Ben
Yes, it would normally show the retard as 6deg on all cylinders on the display at the bottom of the EZK System Monitor screen.
Suggest you try datalogging as you start the car. There may be a clue there. But an intermittant is a reasonable assumption.
Try a short test drive, if poossible, also datalogging.
Yes, it would normally show the retard as 6deg on all cylinders on the display at the bottom of the EZK System Monitor screen.
Suggest you try datalogging as you start the car. There may be a clue there. But an intermittant is a reasonable assumption.
Try a short test drive, if poossible, also datalogging.
11-30-2009, 01:16 PM
#133
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OK..... when I tested your EZK with your ST2 on the bench there was certainly no spurious "retard" red light showing.....
You could also try a battery disconnect, for a few seconds.
You could also try a battery disconnect, for a few seconds.
11-30-2009, 01:28 PM
#134
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this is exactly what mine did. I had done some rewiring on the hall sensor conenctor when i pulled my motor out last summer. I failed to secure the wiring properly when i put it all back in. Over time the wiring dangled and rubbed on the exhaust/heat sheild exposing the wires and giving me 6' retard on all cylinders under higher load conditions. It was acutally a PITA to discover. I just happend to looked in with a flas hlight and saw it. The connector was fine, it was just the wiring i added from it.