SharkTuner Mk 2
#211
Supercharged
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Here you go Andrew, the pin functions are shown. The diagram is showing the ST lead as per your picture.
You will have some "spare wires" which are not used with ST. These are Hall signal (2nd pin down from top, LHS) , Knock (2nd pin up on RHS) and RPM (2nd one up on LHS)
You will have some "spare wires" which are not used with ST. These are Hall signal (2nd pin down from top, LHS) , Knock (2nd pin up on RHS) and RPM (2nd one up on LHS)
#214
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I have a rebuilt LH by Rich in my 88 and a spare original working LH.
I plan on hooking the ST up and tune the car (24lb injectors). I've read posts where all the parameters can't be read unless the LH was rebuilt by John. Should I hook up the original up to tune with and once set put the rebuilt one in?
What are you guys using for a wideband sensor gauge?
Thanks,
I plan on hooking the ST up and tune the car (24lb injectors). I've read posts where all the parameters can't be read unless the LH was rebuilt by John. Should I hook up the original up to tune with and once set put the rebuilt one in?
What are you guys using for a wideband sensor gauge?
Thanks,
#216
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I have a rebuilt LH by Rich in my 88 and a spare original working LH.
I plan on hooking the ST up and tune the car (24lb injectors). I've read posts where all the parameters can't be read unless the LH was rebuilt by John. Should I hook up the original up to tune with and once set put the rebuilt one in?
What are you guys using for a wideband sensor gauge?
Thanks,
I plan on hooking the ST up and tune the car (24lb injectors). I've read posts where all the parameters can't be read unless the LH was rebuilt by John. Should I hook up the original up to tune with and once set put the rebuilt one in?
What are you guys using for a wideband sensor gauge?
Thanks,
Suggest you use your stock LH initially. You can just connect it up loose in the footwell, it doesn't need to be bolted to the chassis/mounting plate.
Most people is the US seems to use the LC-1 or LM-1. My personal preference is the Techedge range of units, the ebtry level unit is the 2J1 which is excellent.
http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm
Not sure if there is a distributor in the USA - they are based in Australia.
#217
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I have a rebuilt LH by Rich in my 88 and a spare original working LH.
I plan on hooking the ST up and tune the car (24lb injectors). I've read posts where all the parameters can't be read unless the LH was rebuilt by John. Should I hook up the original up to tune with and once set put the rebuilt one in?
What are you guys using for a wideband sensor gauge?
Thanks,
I plan on hooking the ST up and tune the car (24lb injectors). I've read posts where all the parameters can't be read unless the LH was rebuilt by John. Should I hook up the original up to tune with and once set put the rebuilt one in?
What are you guys using for a wideband sensor gauge?
Thanks,
I agree with John's comments. I ran into the same problem with a rebuilt LH from Rich (came with the car). Wht I recommend is you put PEM modules into a spare LH and EZK and plug those into the car you're tuning. Once tuned, you can burn a chip (or have one burned by me ) and populate that into rebuilt brain.
As for the WideBand O2 sensor, I like the Innovate LC-1 product. They had some quality issues in the early days, but seems to have improved, plus they stand behind their product. I recently returned one that I bought 4 years ago and they replaced it (controller, not the sensor) - no questions. They were recently acquired, so it's hard to say if that practice will continue.
Hope this helps.
#218
Race Car
It's more a case that only Rich's LH don't work with Hammer or ST. All others work OK.
Suggest you use your stock LH initially. You can just connect it up loose in the footwell, it doesn't need to be bolted to the chassis/mounting plate.
Most people is the US seems to use the LC-1 or LM-1. My personal preference is the Techedge range of units, the ebtry level unit is the 2J1 which is excellent.
http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm
Not sure if there is a distributor in the USA - they are based in Australia.
Suggest you use your stock LH initially. You can just connect it up loose in the footwell, it doesn't need to be bolted to the chassis/mounting plate.
Most people is the US seems to use the LC-1 or LM-1. My personal preference is the Techedge range of units, the ebtry level unit is the 2J1 which is excellent.
http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm
Not sure if there is a distributor in the USA - they are based in Australia.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#219
Rennlist Member
Thanks for the reply's, I have the LC1 but I don't have a gauge.
For the 88 I will just have the WB in for tuning then go back to the stock o2 sensor. When I get the 87 SC'd I was looking at installing a gauge but it may be a mute point with the console upgrade project going on.
I also have a access to two Sailor Prom burners. Planned on burning my own chips.
Thanks,
For the 88 I will just have the WB in for tuning then go back to the stock o2 sensor. When I get the 87 SC'd I was looking at installing a gauge but it may be a mute point with the console upgrade project going on.
I also have a access to two Sailor Prom burners. Planned on burning my own chips.
Thanks,
#221
Supercharged
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Well, my EZK problem reared it's ungly head again today.
So, I had been driving with the PEMs installed for a few days. I parked it a week ago and brought the brains home to Michigan in case I was going to ST a friend's car. We didn't. ANyway, I forgot the brains in Michigan last week, so I have not Porsche love last week.
Remembered the brains this week and installed them. Turn the key, no start. Put the STer on it and it will not communicate with the EZK. I fiddled around with the diagnostic cable but couldn't get anywhere. I popped the EZK of an on several times, but to no avail.
Finally, becasue I was running out of time, I decided to pop the EZK chip back in, and voilla! It fired right up. Still not sure if this is an EZK, PEM, or Diagnostic cable issue. I'll play around with it some more late tonight. Colin is sending me an EZK, so I should have a spare to play around with soon.
So, I had been driving with the PEMs installed for a few days. I parked it a week ago and brought the brains home to Michigan in case I was going to ST a friend's car. We didn't. ANyway, I forgot the brains in Michigan last week, so I have not Porsche love last week.
Remembered the brains this week and installed them. Turn the key, no start. Put the STer on it and it will not communicate with the EZK. I fiddled around with the diagnostic cable but couldn't get anywhere. I popped the EZK of an on several times, but to no avail.
Finally, becasue I was running out of time, I decided to pop the EZK chip back in, and voilla! It fired right up. Still not sure if this is an EZK, PEM, or Diagnostic cable issue. I'll play around with it some more late tonight. Colin is sending me an EZK, so I should have a spare to play around with soon.
#223
Under the Lift
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The possibility of the PEM losing the code has led me to burn chips once I get things tuned. Is this concern misplaced or is that what just happened to Andrew?
Oh, I see now that the problem is different in that Andrew's EZK PEM won't communicate. Still, is there any concern about the PEM code getting corrupted or erased that should prompt people to not rely on them long-term?
Oh, I see now that the problem is different in that Andrew's EZK PEM won't communicate. Still, is there any concern about the PEM code getting corrupted or erased that should prompt people to not rely on them long-term?
#224
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Tried that. The STer doesn't see a PEM in the EZK. Will only load into the LH. I've already swapped the PEMs, and the problem stays with the EZK. I'm going to check the wiring later tonight to make sure everything is has a good strong connection. Will also tighten the sockets on the diag plug just to make sure there's a good connection.
#225
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Tried that. The STer doesn't see a PEM in the EZK. Will only load into the LH. I've already swapped the PEMs, and the problem stays with the EZK. I'm going to check the wiring later tonight to make sure everything is has a good strong connection. Will also tighten the sockets on the diag plug just to make sure there's a good connection.
K line is pin 1 EZK, L line is pin 7 EZK. You already have the diagnostic pin connections.