SharkSkin

I think it would have taken longer to cut a hole than to do it the way I did. YMMV.

I guess it depends. If you are replacing master, slave, and hoses this is the easiest way IMHO(especially with the engine in ). Even if you are only replacing the MC this method is pretty foolproof.

John Veninger

mrmerlin wrote:
No it won't.

RyanPerrella

I agree with you John 100%

The castrol is great stuff and its just recently in the last few years become been formulates as synthetic.

The ATE is nice for a racer but completely unnecessary for a street car. I think the Castrol holds up much better in time. Its also much more readily available (Although i can only find it in Pepboys) and cheaper.

Mrmerlin

The original Castrol is not the same as the NEW Syn Castrol.
Since they ATE/Castrol cost similar amounts. ( ATE is is bit more)
I dont think its a good idea to use the SYN fluid.
Since ATE makes the brakes /clutch components, it makes sense to use the ATE fluid.
I have never had a problem with the ATE swelling seals in the master cylinder, I have had problems with the Syn fluids over time swelling seals, granted it wont happen over night, but I think its easier to replace the fluid than replace a 200.00 MC or a 85.00 clutch master.

John Veninger

Do you know the real differences between the old Castrol brake fluid and the new one?
Was your problem with a different brand Syn fluid or with the Castrol one?

Mrmerlin

John, I have seen owners that simply topped up the systems with new syn fluids and then a few weeks/ months later the master gets spongy, to be specific Valvoline syn and Castrol Syn fluids were reported to have been used, I have seen this happen in 4 cars already.
I dont know the chemical differences in the Syn fluids, however since mixing them has damaged other hydraulic systems.
I still recommend the use the manufacturers fluid, its a lot less expensive then swapping in a new fluid system , and then having the seals swelling later on.
I realize that newer might be better but in this case I am not sold on the newer fluids.
I am just relaying my experiences with the differing fluid brands and types.
Good luck on your fluid choice

John Veninger

Think LMA GT has always been a synthetic but has not been advertised as such until some recent changes increased the dry boiling temperature. Really wasn't much of a change to the base chemistry.

Mrmerlin

IIRC it should be written on the container, you need to have an old one but,
IIRC it was glycol ether based ( Castrol)

Mrmerlin

JV I just got off the phone with the Castrol rep 1800 227 8765 ext4. They said that Castrol LMA fluid is the same as its always been but they just changed the label to make it look updated. ( they added the Synthetic fluid moniker)
They also said that they suggest that topping up with another brake fluid is not recommended. Even though they may both be DOT 4 the fluids are of different mixtures, and could cause seals to be damaged by mixing .
They suggested that the fluid be drained and then the new fluid be used to fill the complete system. So. If your going to use the GT LMA dont mix it with other fluids and if your using anything else the same also goes.
By reading the different MSDS sheets its quite possible to find that every fluid even though they are DOT 4 compliant are all made with different base chemicals.

So my suggestion is choose a fluid that you like and keep on using it, change it every year .
If your going to mix different fluids then the system should be drained out first and then the new fluid type added.
I also suggest that since ATE designed the brakes and Hydraulic system on the 928 that ATE fluid be used, good luck on your fluid choice

GregBBRD

Kibort like axe. Axe good.

GregBBRD

Come on John...tell 'em where you work and what you do.

GregBBRD

I just about split my side open laughing at that. That's just too funny!

Thanks Mike!

karl ruiter

I have done clutch m.c. jobs where in the end it would have been faster to just pull the motor. That was in the pre-rennlist days when I did not know about burping and the Motive bleeder.

Mrmerlin

if you search i wrote a post about removing the whole assembly from the car to refit new master and slave and bleed it on the bench. takes about an hour and half and since it pre bled no time wasted trying to remove the air that will remain if you try it any other way. Serach for clutch bleeding proceedure

John Veninger

Now what fun would that be.

So I'll come clean. I work as a project and business process manager at Castrol, in Supply Chain.

This thread has gone way off topic.