Rob Edwards

First, remove the engine.

Second, undo the two hard lines from the brake master cylinder and loosen the 4 bolts that hold the brake booster to the firewall so it can be moved around a bit

Undo the clutch master cylinder and wriggle the old MC out from under the loose brake booster.

Do exactly as Dave Anderson says in his masterful writeup on modifying your pressure bleeder, indexing the clutch hydraulic hard lines to the new master and slave, and bench bleeding the new assembly.

http://members.rennlist.com/sharkski...Hydraulics.htm



Invite Ryan over to hold the clutch MC while you bolt it in, then discover that EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OUT AND THE BRAKE BOOSTER LOOSE THAT YOU CAN'T GET THE DAMN CLUTCH MC BACK IN PLACE!

Remove the brake MC from the brake booster, then detach the booster piston from the brake pedal and remove it. Carefully bend the brake hard lines a bit to the fender to get the booster out.

Figure out how to snake the whole clutch hydraulic assembly between the inner fender and the steering column, finally get the clutch MC back in place.

Waste 15 minutes looking for the clutch MC bolt spacers, and discover they're stuck to the magnet on the work light in the driver's footwell.....

Have Ryan hold the clutch MC while wiggling the spacer, cover plate and bolts back into place.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Photo documentation:


My weaksauce attempt at copying Dave's bleeding setup- worked perfectly!!!!


I can clamp that slave piston with 6 tiewraps and an intake pressure tester:


What it takes to be able to visualize a clutch M/C:


Thanks to Ryan for sitting patiently in the engine compartment while I ran around grabbing tools. It only took an hour start to finish, even with all the additional disassembly.

RyanPerrella

OH ROB

Before you put the engine in, just tighten up that hard line fitting coming out the back of the master. It was slightly loose.

All in all, i have to say the removal of the booster was well worth it, its so much better to remove that fairly easy thing then to have to just goof around with trying to wiggle and play with it to make it fit otherwise!

Although i didnt see what it took to remove the booster, Rob did that.... I just basically sat on my *** on the cross member and admired all the pretty re-pated bits in the engine bay... by the way, i would suggest that to anyone that gets this far into an engine out procedure.

SharkSkin

Rob, you cheated -- twice! Engine out, brake booster out -- you could have whistled and had it come running!

Seriously though, I'm glad you found the writeup helpful. I bet you'[re itching to test the results.

BTW, what is that row of tubes/wires in the last pic, framed by the PS hoses?

Jadz928

This kinda cracked me up.

sharknoob

First, remove the engine........ got a laugh out of me also Thanks

Dave, plug wires

Mike Frye

That's right up there in my book with the one from last week about replacing the radiator side tanks:

'Step 2: Heat up the tabs of the radiator and carefully break them off...'

jon928se

Nope they're brake lines

Dennis Wilson

Rob,

This sounds like the Walt K repair procedures where everthing starts with "remove engine".

Dennis

Mrmerlin

OOPS I would suggest that you get some ATE super blue Racing fluid, not the Castrol Syn fluid. Your hydraulic system will last longer with the ATE

Rob Edwards

For one brief moment I contemplated getting some Flitz and cleaning up the brake lines but then Ryan hit me with a gearwrench and I came to my senses.

Stan- I'm going to need to bleed the brakes anyway so flushing it with Superblue once everything is back together should be straightforward.

The last issue here is the blue hose routing- it's gotta be uphill all the way. I'll shoot more pics once the brake MC reservoir is back in place.

heinrich

Rob

SharkSkin

Cool -- good call on starting with the cheap stuff. IMHO it's a good idea to get everything working perfectly with cheap brake fluid first -- you can go through a LOT(right Nicole?). Once you're happy with it flush through with your favorite secret sauce.

mark kibort

I like the "cut the hole in wheel well" technique a litte more. no need to remove engine or brake booster that way! Just cut, unbolt, and replace. only leaves a little scar.

mk

worf928

I've done the clutch MC dance at least three times now with three different methods. It has to be the suckiest job on a 928.

BTW, for those that come afterwards, if you choose the method that involves removing the booster, be very, very careful to put only as much tension on the push rod as necessary to get the booster out. On the 87+ cars that push rod can come loose from the diaphragm with JUST a little extra tension. Then.... you are truly gephucked. BTDT.

The construction of the pre-87 booster is much more robust.

GlenL

A real man pulls the engine. Good for you.

Don't know about that bleeding procedure. Seems like the hard way. The thing does requires some extra tactics. I bleed it while holding the slave plunger all the way in. Kind of tricky and takes two people but the results are solid.