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Hydrolock or other issue?

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Old 05-19-2009, 09:55 AM
  #16  
Dennis Wilson
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Originally Posted by Mongo
have you tried feathering the gas while starting it? Did that with my '86 944 after the rebuild and it fired right up. It may also take a while to get fuel to all 8 of those injectors too.

You didn't hydrolock. Don't worry.
Andy,

Feathering the throttle on a CIS engine is good exercise for the ankle but that's about all it does since there is no accelerator pump or throttle position sensor.

It's possible that all of the oil has been washed off the cylinder walls and is causing the starter to drag. Try squirting a light oil into each cylinder.

Dennis
Old 05-19-2009, 10:37 AM
  #17  
Fabio421
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The connections to the starter or even to the battery could be corroded if you got the same result with the new battery. Don't stress, it's probably something simple. You'll be on the road in no time.
Old 05-19-2009, 10:51 AM
  #18  
RicerSchnitzzle
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THanks for the ideas guys. When I get off work today it's off to the ground spots.

As for a push start, it's downhill from the driveway, but uphill back if it doesn't start. If I have a ground issue, it won't go away once started. If it's the starter it'll be okay until the next start. Plus I still have to set the idle and timing.

Thanks for all the help and ideas so far. I was tired and pissed last night and couldn't think straight any longer. Fresh day, fresh head.
Old 05-19-2009, 11:27 AM
  #19  
mark kibort
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Dont do this. It can help dry out the cylinders and possibly sieze the engine. As me how I know! we were off with the connections on the coil and were trying to coax Scots engine to start, with ether. it got real slow and then locked up. ENGINE GONE!@! Thats one of the reasons I like to use a light assembly lube on the piston skirts just in case there is a starting issue.
Anyway, the car should fire RIGHT up. you dont need ether, but it will tell you if you have a spark, but you dont need it to get things running. check for fuel, spark in the usual way. Its CIS, right? out of my knowledge range sorry.

mk

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
Dude, spray some ether into her mouth that will let you know if its fuel or spark
Old 05-19-2009, 11:34 AM
  #20  
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we lost an engine due to going dry! CAREFUL! add the Oil to each cylinder as suggested. cant hurt.

Originally Posted by Dennis Wilson
Andy,

Feathering the throttle on a CIS engine is good exercise for the ankle but that's about all it does since there is no accelerator pump or throttle position sensor.

It's possible that all of the oil has been washed off the cylinder walls and is causing the starter to drag. Try squirting a light oil into each cylinder.

Dennis
Old 05-19-2009, 11:35 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
Dont do this. It can help dry out the cylinders and possibly sieze the engine. As me how I know! we were off with the connections on the coil and were trying to coax Scots engine to start, with ether. it got real slow and then locked up. ENGINE GONE!@! Thats one of the reasons I like to use a light assembly lube on the piston skirts just in case there is a starting issue.
Anyway, the car should fire RIGHT up. you dont need ether, but it will tell you if you have a spark, but you dont need it to get things running. check for fuel, spark in the usual way. Its CIS, right? out of my knowledge range sorry.

mk
Starting fluid is not in my vocabulary. I've had bad experiences in the past.
Old 05-19-2009, 11:37 AM
  #22  
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you can also check each cylinder for gas pooling! you can see it with a flashlight, and certainly smell it in the exaust. this also washes the cylinder down and creates even more risk of a lockup on start up.
Old 05-19-2009, 04:31 PM
  #23  
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you know after 6 months of chipping away at a rebuild and instal, you can't help but hold your breath, expecting Murphy to bring a catastrtophic failure. then when something goes wrong your mind races with all that could be...except the one thing it is.

RICERSCHNITZZLE is ALIVE!!!!!!!

turn out the jumper post was not tight enough. i have broken a couple overtightening them so i was overly gentle this time. i figured it out today when instead of jumping straight to the battery terminals, i jumped to the post and cross brace support.

She's smoking a little from the oil I squirted in the cylinders as well a residual in the exhaust from the cracked block explosion. but she should clear out. now to set the timing and try a test drive.

Happy Days
Old 05-19-2009, 04:58 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Dan Perez
It's a damn chore push starting up a hill!
Use reverse....
Old 05-19-2009, 05:23 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
Dont do this. It can help dry out the cylinders and possibly sieze the engine. As me how I know! we were off with the connections on the coil and were trying to coax Scots engine to start, with ether. it got real slow and then locked up. ENGINE GONE!@! Thats one of the reasons I like to use a light assembly lube on the piston skirts just in case there is a starting issue.
Anyway, the car should fire RIGHT up. you dont need ether, but it will tell you if you have a spark, but you dont need it to get things running. check for fuel, spark in the usual way. Its CIS, right? out of my knowledge range sorry.

mk
What? Did you use a whole can of the stuff? I sometimes use a very short puff (2 seconds) and then try to start the car. It's purely for diagnostics if the car doesn't have a fuel pressure gauge. I'm only looking for it to fire briefly, not run on ether. If you spray it while cranking, you can damage the car. If you spray very briefly then crank, it can help determine if it is a fuel problem.
Old 05-19-2009, 05:28 PM
  #26  
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Idles like a kitten. Small drip on fuel return line. Need new crush washers.

Studders a little when giving her gas and backfires a little coming back down. vacuum leak?

Oh and sadly the clutch is not working.
Hopefull it just needs to be bleed. Brake fluid is full.

Hope to be cruzing by tomorrow.

Just might make SITM afterall.
Old 05-19-2009, 06:51 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
Dont do this. It can help dry out the cylinders and possibly sieze the engine. As me how I know! we were off with the connections on the coil and were trying to coax Scots engine to start, with ether. it got real slow and then locked up. ENGINE GONE!@! Thats one of the reasons I like to use a light assembly lube on the piston skirts just in case there is a starting issue.
Anyway, the car should fire RIGHT up. you dont need ether, but it will tell you if you have a spark, but you dont need it to get things running. check for fuel, spark in the usual way. Its CIS, right? out of my knowledge range sorry.

mk
I remember that thread -- you were spraying and spraying and spraying. Bad idea. Nothing wrong with giving it a ~1 second squirt and cranking it to see if you have spark. There is a world of difference between getting a bit of vapor in the intake vs spraying so much that liquid ether makes it to the cylinder walls.
Old 05-19-2009, 07:30 PM
  #28  
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great news. Folks are usually in denial when the car doesnt start the first time. they always should fire RIGHT up! You found the reason, like we did with Scots car, but for him, it was too late! (actually, a blessing as he did the 5 liter that next go around.)

mk

Originally Posted by RicerSchnitzzle
you know after 6 months of chipping away at a rebuild and instal, you can't help but hold your breath, expecting Murphy to bring a catastrtophic failure. then when something goes wrong your mind races with all that could be...except the one thing it is.

RICERSCHNITZZLE is ALIVE!!!!!!!

turn out the jumper post was not tight enough. i have broken a couple overtightening them so i was overly gentle this time. i figured it out today when instead of jumping straight to the battery terminals, i jumped to the post and cross brace support.

She's smoking a little from the oil I squirted in the cylinders as well a residual in the exhaust from the cracked block explosion. but she should clear out. now to set the timing and try a test drive.

Happy Days
Old 05-19-2009, 08:51 PM
  #29  
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Moving along. Clutch bled and working fine. Timing set close enough to take a spin.

BTW with new rings, what's the best way to break them in? They have idled for about 40 minutes now with a couple small burps to 2000rpms or so. No work was done on cylinder walls, they were pretty clean and scratch free.

Chevy guys say dig into it and the rings will seat. Just not sure with our blocks.
Old 05-19-2009, 09:20 PM
  #30  
GlenL
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Gotta run but use search. Idling is bad. Run the RPMs up and down and gradually build up to higher RPMs with more throttle. First out you should be doing 3/4+ throttle at low RPMs. Don't just cruise at 60. Do something like getting on and off the highway where you can apply throttle and vary engine speeds a lot.

Then again, some guys just go flog it.


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