Hydrolock or other issue?
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Hydrolock or other issue?
Well,
After what seems months of chipping away at the rebuild, I finally got around to trying to start the "Ricer" tonight. She wouldn't start. Checked fuel, checked spark. All okay. Still no start and she was starting to turn over slower.
Next I double checked the distributor, wires and firing order. Check, check, DooH!! Distributor was off one plug. Oh well, easy fix. Got everything back together and still turning slow. Battery checks okay.
So I pull the plugs. With plugs out she wings over quickly. That's more like it! When I put the plugs back in, she's back to slow??!!??
So do I need to give her more than 30seconds with plugs out to clear her out, or do I need to actually siphon the gas out, or is it maybe something else? Could the starter just be weak after sitting 6 months? I have another starter I can swap out. BTW when trying to start all the dash lights dim to almost nothing, showing heavy draw, again either weak starter or hydrolock? Or something else?
What else could cause these symptoms? When the plugs are out, everything moves quick and smoothly.
Thanks!
Goinna hit it again after work tomorrow.
After what seems months of chipping away at the rebuild, I finally got around to trying to start the "Ricer" tonight. She wouldn't start. Checked fuel, checked spark. All okay. Still no start and she was starting to turn over slower.
Next I double checked the distributor, wires and firing order. Check, check, DooH!! Distributor was off one plug. Oh well, easy fix. Got everything back together and still turning slow. Battery checks okay.
So I pull the plugs. With plugs out she wings over quickly. That's more like it! When I put the plugs back in, she's back to slow??!!??
So do I need to give her more than 30seconds with plugs out to clear her out, or do I need to actually siphon the gas out, or is it maybe something else? Could the starter just be weak after sitting 6 months? I have another starter I can swap out. BTW when trying to start all the dash lights dim to almost nothing, showing heavy draw, again either weak starter or hydrolock? Or something else?
What else could cause these symptoms? When the plugs are out, everything moves quick and smoothly.
Thanks!
Goinna hit it again after work tomorrow.
#2
Team Owner
Dude, spray some ether into her mouth that will let you know if its fuel or spark
#3
It will spin a lot better with the plugs out (no compression, no load on the starter). Check your grounds and any connection to the starter. If that doesn't help I would try swapping starters.
I doubt it is hydraulic lock as it would just stop and not turn over at all. I had a motorcycle with a leaky needle and seat with downdraft carbs. When it filled up on the compression stroke it stopped the starter dead in its tracks.
I doubt it is hydraulic lock as it would just stop and not turn over at all. I had a motorcycle with a leaky needle and seat with downdraft carbs. When it filled up on the compression stroke it stopped the starter dead in its tracks.
#4
Three Wheelin'
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I'm checking the starter tomorrow. It guess it could be stuck on the ring gear and turning slowly? Looks like that's the first place to start.
I doubted hydrolock as well, but with the cold start injector running with so much cranking, I was not sure and did not want to rule it out. But you're right if hydrolocked, it should be "Locked" right?
I'll double check all the grounds tomorrow, jumper post, ground strap to block etc..
When it was winging over with the plugs out, it was not kicking out liquid or a heavy smell of gas. Guess I can get to TDC And pull plug #1, stuff tip of a rag in and see if it comes out wet.
I doubted hydrolock as well, but with the cold start injector running with so much cranking, I was not sure and did not want to rule it out. But you're right if hydrolocked, it should be "Locked" right?
I'll double check all the grounds tomorrow, jumper post, ground strap to block etc..
When it was winging over with the plugs out, it was not kicking out liquid or a heavy smell of gas. Guess I can get to TDC And pull plug #1, stuff tip of a rag in and see if it comes out wet.
#6
Three Wheelin'
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Forgot to mention. That was my first thought. Went to PepBoys and tested the first battery. It was bad. Replaced under warranty. However the new battery gave the same results. Even when jump starting.
#7
Inventor
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The cold start thermotime switch (CIS & L-Jet) limits the cold start injector time to 7 secs or less, depending on the engine temp, while cranking only (powered by the starter).
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#10
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Checked spark with a screwdriver to frame. Didn't think of timing light.
All grounds tomorrow after starter.
#11
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I'm stuck back here:
I'm with Dan, dim lights means low volts- weak battery (which you eliminated) or a loose or corroded connection somewhere, or an extraordinarily heavy load (bad starter, e.g. shorted winding).
Check the voltage directly on the battery terminals with a multimeter while cranking, should drop from 12 volts to 8-10 volts or so when the engine cranks, make a note. Then check from the battery positive post to the chassis while cranking-- should be the same within a tenth of a volt or two. (This rules out the main ground strap).
Now crawl under the car and measure from the starter terminal to chassis while cranking, should be a bit less than at the battery due to the drop in the main battery cable. If it is more than a volt or so less then you've got a bad connection somewhere.
Check for warm connections, a couple-hundred amps and a volt or two drop makes a few hundred watts of heat- a loose terminal or a corroded section of cable will quickly show itself by burning your fingers.
Check the voltage directly on the battery terminals with a multimeter while cranking, should drop from 12 volts to 8-10 volts or so when the engine cranks, make a note. Then check from the battery positive post to the chassis while cranking-- should be the same within a tenth of a volt or two. (This rules out the main ground strap).
Now crawl under the car and measure from the starter terminal to chassis while cranking, should be a bit less than at the battery due to the drop in the main battery cable. If it is more than a volt or so less then you've got a bad connection somewhere.
Check for warm connections, a couple-hundred amps and a volt or two drop makes a few hundred watts of heat- a loose terminal or a corroded section of cable will quickly show itself by burning your fingers.
#13
Official Bay Area Patriot
Fuse 24 Assassin
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Fuse 24 Assassin
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have you tried feathering the gas while starting it? Did that with my '86 944 after the rebuild and it fired right up. It may also take a while to get fuel to all 8 of those injectors too.
You didn't hydrolock. Don't worry.
You didn't hydrolock. Don't worry.