86'928S MeteorGrey

Hey all,

Parts are staring to show up. I'm expecting my motor this week. I got my rebuilt water pump today and am trying to prepare for the tasks ahead. I did some searches on the forum looking for water pumps and sealant types, but didn't find what I was looking for.

#1 What kind of sealant is the best for the water pump gasket? I used to use royal blue (rolls royce product) when building motors in the aircraft industry...It used to be the stuff for oil and water, but I'm not even sure where to get it anymore..(or if its made) Is there a favored sealant being used out there on shark water pumps?

#2 What are you guys using for engine stands? Is there a cheap stand that will work, or does it require something more exotic like a custom stand, or custom make cradle for a standard stand? I'm sure I could probably just do the work off the pallet, but my backwont like it, Plus I plan on throwing the old motor in the stand (if I get one set up) after its out for dismantleing. I guess it will be nice to have a whole motor of spares available... I can hardly wait to see the internal carnage....

#3 Is the hoisting bar shown in the WSM absolutely neccessary for lifting an engine only onto an engine stand? I'm looking to go over the TB,WP,Tensioner,pulleys, and gaskets before bringing in the car and motor to GB. Any photos of your engine stands and lifting rigs would be helpful.

I'll be sure and photo document everything I do as the job progresses.

Thanks in advance!

SharkSkin

#1 -- When Bill was helping me with my WP he brought some Permatex Hylomar HPF along. He swears by it, and I've had no issues. Just a thin film is all it takes:



#2 -- I don't have a specific recommendation, but IIRC folks prefer the heavier-duty 4-wheel units.

#3 -- Those adjustable lifting bars are worth their weight in gold. Rent one if you'd rather not invest(they're cheap though).

Andre Hedrick

Ping Jim Morton. He has the one I donated to the Norcal928.org, there is a rumor that Jim will be making new units based on the original factory set.

JHowell37

Most of the gaskets go on dry at the factory and they seal fine for years. I've got 38K miles on my water pump, and I didn't use any sealant when I installed it and it hasn't leaked a drop.

Bill Ball

Permatex no longer sells Hylomar, but it is available online. [CORRECTION 03/20/09: Permatex has re-relased Hylomar. They show it as a "NEW" product online. http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ge_Sealant.htm ]

This is a non-hardening goo that works really well as a gasket dressing. Yamabond/Hondabond/Threebond is another good alternative.

Like J said, the factory applied the gaskets dry, so you could go dry if the block face is unscarred.

86'928S MeteorGrey

Thanks for the quick replies. I'll look for some of the permatex Hylomar. Dry would probably be fine, but if a little sealant can help, I'm all for it.

Now hunting for a engine stand suitable and a hoisting bar...

Thanks again!

Mrmerlin

make sure to get a new set of hardware for the WP .
Then use either teflon pipe sealant on the bolts or antiseize.
The use of sealants for the WP gasket will help liquids from leaking into the bolt threads and corroding them into the block, I have used the Blue silicone sealant for the WP gaskets and it seems to work well and its easy to remove when its replacement time, A lil dab will do yaa

86'928S MeteorGrey

Already done. I got 8 each of the 20mm, and eight each of the 25mm. When I get all the belts, rollers and hardware, I will post a picture to make sure I'm not missing anything. Blue silicone... Any particular brand, or any RTV silicone sealant will do? Thanks!

Mrmerlin

permatex, found at most any parts house

fraggle

WSM has the S4 motor on a stand with a brace on the bottom to help support it. I left mine on a pallet when removing the intake and the heads, then hoisted it onto a stand when it was lighter. Make sure you've got some bolts the right length around. 110mm worked great on top, but you'll need 130ish for the bottom.

Lizard928

if it is a single piece gasket with no funny edges, put on dry with NO sealent.

I have replaced alot of 928 waterpumps and never have used any sealent, never 1 leak.

JHowell37

And to add to what Bill said, the best way to prevent scarring of the face of the block is to buy some plastic razor blades for removing any leftover gasket material. Yes, I said that correct. They have the same dimensions as razor blades that fit into a scraper, but they're a little thicker and made from hard, red plastic. They're ideal for scraping on aluminum.

Mrmerlin

and if you only have a metal razor blade the best way to not scar the surface of any part your cleaning is to hold the blade perpendicular to its surface as you run it back and forth ___<--__I__-->___ I=the blade.
This will scrape the surface clean and the the sharper the blade the finer the cleaning will be

devilinblack

There might be someone local with an engine stand on the SoCal board if you want to check there. I'm sure a few of us (myself included) would be willing to come give you a hand if needed or at least watch and point.

http://www.socal928.com

Adam Geist

I use a very thin coat of Hondabond/Threebond 1104 on the waterpump gasket and silver anti-seize paste on the waterpump bolts. I read somewhere that the silver colored anti-seize should be used with dissimilar metals (e.g. steel bolt in aluminum block) and copper colored anti-seize for steel bolts in similar metals (steel bolt in steel or cast iron).