G Man

I need to raise the ride height on my car. The rear shocks have visible threads for the adjusting nut to ride in. The fronts have no visible threads that I can see. There are the adjusting collars/nuts on the front, but I dont see any threads on the shock body at all. The pic from the 928 Int website looks like the threads are inside of the adjusting collar. Is this correct. Should my shock have threads or not. The ride height is very low so I was thinking the adjustment is at the very bottom of its range. Any info and pics would be helpful.

Mrmerlin

try turning the adjusters up and see if they turn, you might have better access to the collars if you remove a wheel try to jack from under the control arm so it wont release the suspension

G Man

I pulled one of the front wheels off to make adjustment easier. That is when I noticed no threads. The adjuster does turn, but I'm not sure at this point if it was doing anything other than spinning. I didnt think about measuring the distance from the adjuster to a fixed point to see if I was getting any movement.

G Man

Pulled this pic off of a previous post. This is how my front shock assembly looks. No visible threads for the adjusting collar to ride on. I guess I'll go back to mine tomorrow and start cranking on the adjuster to raise the car. I measured the fender lip at 24.5" so I have a couple of inches to go to get close to factory spec.

NoVector

G-Man
The threaded piece may be spinning on the shock--that's what happened to me. In the end I just waited until I installed Koni's and Eibach springs. My problem turned out to be the adjuster threads had rusted and seized together. No amount of PBR or heat would bust it loose. Since there was no way to grip it and spin it off, the adjuster went in the trash and I bought a used one from 928 Intl. Hopefully this isn't what happened to yours. / Bruce

SharkSkin

Yes, the shock should give you 10mm adjustment, or 50mm from lowest to highest. Hopefully you have room to bring it up.

G Man

Thanks for the link Chris. I actually posted a question in that thread about where to access the measuring point from. You suggested cranking the wheels to the left and coming in from the rear of the wheel. I did some expirementing before I tried this. Whth the wheels straight ahead I measured 4.75 in.from the ground to the bottom edge of my front spoiler. With the wheels cranked full left I measured again and got 5.25 in. At that location that is 1/2 in. higher. Not sure if that would be the same at the factory measuring point. Something to keep in mind.

jpitman2

As long as the adjusters turn without excessive force being needed, I found its fairly easy without jacking, assuming raising, steering on full left lock, come in from behind right hand wheel, and obviously , from in front of left wheel. This means in both cases you are pulling on the C spanner/wrench. The shock threads are just concealed by the adjuster and the perch. I tried to adjust my rears once, and I could just move them with a 3' cheater pipe, but about all I achieved was to pull some skin off my palms....
Note that new Bilstein fronts come with adjustable perches and the nuts, even where original early M474 cars werent adjustable at the front.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k

Andre Hedrick

I know that picture all to well!

Went from 130mm to 150mm in 16 turns!

God bless Bill Ball for his assistance.

killav

Looking at this picture, drivers side on US car, which way is up, and which way is down on adjustment. In other words, if you put the spanner wrench on the right side of the shock assembly and pulled toward you, which way does the car move, Up or down?

G Man

Turn to the right to raise left to lower. Righty tighty lefty loosy. I ended up pulling the wheels off this weekend and cranking on the adjuster some more. I wrapped a zip-tie around the shock flush with the bottom of the adjuster so I could track how much it was moving. I ended up raising the adjuster about 1/4 inch on each side. It definately raised the ride height. I drove the car around for about 20 minutes to settle the suspension. I need to measure and drive some more to see if it is done settleing in. Once that is done it is off to the alignment shop. There is a new shop just down the road from me with a brand new Hunter machine.

StratfordShark

The sleeve carrying the threads is just much shorter on the front shocks than the rear (presumably because the adjustment ratio at front is 2:1 compared with 4:3 at rear, so less threads necessary?).

It's possible for the adjuster nut to completely cover the threads, as in your photo, depending on the height set.

I have a couple of new/used threads/nuts for front waiting till I put on new front shocks (rears are done). I've set them to show the threads almost all the way out on one, and almost completely covered on the other. I'm not installing them as shown in the photo - it's just that the shock body keeps them steady for the photo!

Rod Underwood

If I understand this correctly, I need to turn it clockwise to expose more threads above the shoulder to raise the height - which is lowering it on the shock. Have this same job to do on the black car as soon as the snow is off and I can get on the lift.

Thanks
Rod

mark kibort

what is your ride height at now,and why do you want to get it to factory spec?

as far as raising the car, you need to rotate the adjusters clockwise as viewed from the bottom. this raises the adjuster, leaves more shock below, and pushs the spring upward . the car floats on the springs so all goes up as well.

G Man

Front tires were scrubbing off the inside tread. Have hade several alignments on Hunter machines without raising the car. Just wanted to get everything to factory spec before the next alignment go round. Have been done with this project for some time and all seems fine so far.