Keith, it's a bit damp up there these days, right? Any moisture inside the distributor caps? That could result in spark, but not at the right time or in the right place. A shot of starter fluid(1/2 second) will tell if the spark is really right.

 

All acceptable suggestions. Tony, you pretty much nailed it...should really be my responsibility to recap, but hey...thanks.

I have set aside most of the day on Saturday to start over...not necessarily in the same order of how I had already diagnosed, but I will be starting with fire and fuel, then work backwards from there.
I know it sounds crazy, but I have had experiences in the past that you may actually fix one thing and at the same point in time, something else creates an issue, so you may have cured one thing, but something you previously checked that was OK, is now an issue.

It's baffling, I know, but there were no signs of anything leading to this. My car is still in near new condition inside and out. I just went back out to the car to leave my friends and it didn't start. I WILL get this figured out. I'm at the point of being pissed off...so I am determined.

Thank you friends...I'll report back as usual.

 

Even if there was it wouldn't be connected to anything...?

This does highlight something worth checking though - that you really have all the relays in the right places - the labelling is very confusing with labels alternating sides w.r.t. the relay socket they relate to - check the arrows... When pulling & replacing - relays sometimes get misplaced...

Alan

 

I've been through that with the relays, I've made sure they are all where they are supposed to be...AND checked relays with a multi meter and a 9v battery AND swapped relays...no KD relay

BTW Tom, Yes, there is a sufficient amount of gas in the tank, I made sure of that after fixing the hose on the inner pump.

 

Keith since you were messing with the inner pump might it be possible that you dont have any fuel reaching the injectors??
Try this remove the right fuel rail fuel cap and ball, with a helper have them crank it over while you hold a container in front of the outlet. Have a fire extinguisher handy.
You could have a clogged fuel filter.
Spraying some ether into the intake and seeing the engine fire will confirm no fuel.

 

Alan:
What would pin 1 on the LH and 13 on the EZK represent? I can follow lines, but haven't a clue what they mean- these appear to be connected to the kickdown relay.
I thought the mech told me the short triggered a floating ground, but I do not see one on the diagram.

 

Hi Keith:

You already did a lot of electrical sleuthing that seemed to show a short in the injector circuit, although it was not straight-forward, as it seemed to implicate the MAF circuit as somehow grounding the some of the injectors. You fiddled with the MAF and MAF plug and saw nothing there. Still, it does appear the injector circuit is the likely issue. Are you still pursuing that? You've ruled out just about everything else.

It's been suggested several times that the injectors aren't firing, but I don't think you've verified that. I think you mentioned the spark plugs have been dry despite a lot of cranking, so this seems likely, if there is fuel in the rails. Maybe you've already accepted that is the problem, but if not, there are several ways to examine this.

Noid light. I can send you mine as I'm not sure you can find the right one locally. If you find it locally, it would be Bosch type. Thery are often sold in sets, but you only need the right one. Anyway, I've got one that could be in your hands in a day or two.

Theo's diagnostic tester or John Speake's Spanner and run the injector test.

Listen for the injector clicks by using a dowel rod against an injector body as a stethoscope as you crank the motor.

Or, as Dave and I suggested, a brief shot of starter fluid down the MAF throat, then crank the car. If the car runs briefly, you have a fuel delivery problem. You verified pressurized fuel is in the rail, so if the starter fluid test is positive, it's the injectors.

If the injectors aren't firing, then let's go back and re-examine the injector circuit.

 

Another note about the starter fluid. If it does kick the engine over, it will splash some oil up on the cylinder walls, which they could probably use right about now.

 

The kick down relay is fed of that rpm feed from EZK to LH. The rev counter (tach) is also fed from the same point.

Those pulses are required to wake up the LH, so it energises the fuel pump relay and also pulses the injectors.

If your tach flickers when cranking the engine, then that would usually idicate all is well with the pin 13 EZK --->> pin 1 LH feed.

A helper should also be able to hear the fuel pump whine when you crank the engine.

Then confirm that the injectors are pulsing when cranking, as Bill has suggested.

 

Wow, im glad my issue was just the pumps!

I would have shot myself if i had to do all youve done to diagnose this oddity.

If nothing more, you at least know your car a bit better!

Cheers to finding the solution....... with this team on the case your bound to figure it out....... eventually.

 

Thanks John!

 

+1, My guess would have been both fuel pumps as well. This has got to be driving you nuts. At this point, my guess would be the flux capacitor. Good luck. Hope you stumble across the problem soon.

 

Any progress, Keith? Flux capacitor is moving up the list.

 

None. I did see it when I walked through the garage this weekend! More important things took over this weekend. I know, how could anything be more important than a 928, but the car doesn't make me money...it spends it. I'll see how this week lines up, if not this weekend.

Thanks for checking in!

 

Take you time. I just thought you had planned to spend a day re-examining it.