GTS died
02-22-2009, 05:09 PM
#181
Former Vendor
" I had just assumed that it was working "
You know what happens when one *** u me s don't you??
Just kidding
Glad to hear it's all over and wasn't anything major.Now go drive that bad boy!!
You know what happens when one *** u me s don't you??
Just kidding
Glad to hear it's all over and wasn't anything major.Now go drive that bad boy!!
Last edited by OBehave; 02-22-2009 at 05:24 PM.
02-22-2009, 07:39 PM
#184
Supercharged
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Keith,
If you did not pull the internal pump out, it may be time. It has probably disintergrated and is letting little bits of stuff flow in the external pump and causing it to jam up. So if all you did was replace the external pump, you may find yourself along-side the road one of these days soon with a dead car, again. Personally, I think you can get away with replacing the internal pump with the strainer option and everthing will work fine. The internal pump is there to prevent vapor lock on the external pump in hot climates. Oregon does not = hot climate.
Just saying...
Hope the black car went somewhere nice.
If you did not pull the internal pump out, it may be time. It has probably disintergrated and is letting little bits of stuff flow in the external pump and causing it to jam up. So if all you did was replace the external pump, you may find yourself along-side the road one of these days soon with a dead car, again. Personally, I think you can get away with replacing the internal pump with the strainer option and everthing will work fine. The internal pump is there to prevent vapor lock on the external pump in hot climates. Oregon does not = hot climate.
Just saying...
Hope the black car went somewhere nice.
02-22-2009, 09:40 PM
#185
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Thanks guys. Yeah, simple in retrospect, but if it were only that easy to get there. BIG difference when you are on a time schedule to have to choose what you will diagnose at a time and that's it. The pump is not a brand new pump, but came out of a lower mileage wrecked car. I pulled the inner pump when I replaced the outter pump. Fixed the hose and checked it. There may have been a spec of trash in the rubber hose between pumps. Anyway, we'll see how it goes. First time since I have ever owned 928's that a fuel pump went out.
Took it out for some exercise today and it ran like a champ...until the toothed belt light came on...WTF, I just checked the tension during this mess. No worries, I'll just check it again.
As for the black car, it went to a good home in southern Oregon. A car guy/collector who just happened to send me an email today telling me the car is more than he expected and absolutely loves it. Ain't sayin' what I got for it as 928 pricing starts arguments and that's one you won't win with me. Let's just say I got more than what I had into it. Now it's time for the Euro to go.
Took it out for some exercise today and it ran like a champ...until the toothed belt light came on...WTF, I just checked the tension during this mess. No worries, I'll just check it again.
As for the black car, it went to a good home in southern Oregon. A car guy/collector who just happened to send me an email today telling me the car is more than he expected and absolutely loves it. Ain't sayin' what I got for it as 928 pricing starts arguments and that's one you won't win with me. Let's just say I got more than what I had into it.
Now it's time for the Euro to go.
02-23-2009, 02:38 AM
#187
Under the Lift
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Hey, Keith. Glad the car is working again!
When you check the belt tension, if you find it to be within range, check the tension warning system wire connector to the tensioner arm. We had a baffling case where the tension warning would go off periodically. I checked the continuity from the cam belt cover plug for the tension warning system to ground and it was good. I looked at the wire behind the cover and it was on the spade. It was only later that the owner found the wire connector was not snug on the spade and it would periodically break contact.
Also, I had a problem with a Conti belt that lost tension after 25K miles, was adjusted and then lost tension again only a couple weeks later. I replaced it immediately.
When you check the belt tension, if you find it to be within range, check the tension warning system wire connector to the tensioner arm. We had a baffling case where the tension warning would go off periodically. I checked the continuity from the cam belt cover plug for the tension warning system to ground and it was good. I looked at the wire behind the cover and it was on the spade. It was only later that the owner found the wire connector was not snug on the spade and it would periodically break contact.
Also, I had a problem with a Conti belt that lost tension after 25K miles, was adjusted and then lost tension again only a couple weeks later. I replaced it immediately.
02-23-2009, 01:42 PM
#188
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Thanks Bill, I had the wiring issue on the 85 as you did.
The light came on twice yesterday and never came back the rest of the day. Weird, I'll check it out of course. That was my first thoughts...could be the wiring. I know I checked the tension a couple of weeks ago when the car was down.
I'm still reflecting on it taking a month for me to fix the no start issue though. In any other previous point in time, I would have double checked the pump after install.
The light came on twice yesterday and never came back the rest of the day. Weird, I'll check it out of course. That was my first thoughts...could be the wiring. I know I checked the tension a couple of weeks ago when the car was down.
I'm still reflecting on it taking a month for me to fix the no start issue though. In any other previous point in time, I would have double checked the pump after install.
02-23-2009, 07:04 PM
#189
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Keith--
Do a quick refill of the tensioner, and see if it takes much. I've noticed that no oil and therefore no dampening in the tensioner means belt flutter under acceleration. Front side of the belt (DS gear to crank) is under added tension at higher RPM's, leaving less tension on the back end (between crank and pass side cam gear) and more opportuninty for the tensioner to pick up that slack. The check valve and oil passages allow the tensioner to extend quickly, compress slowly, but only when there's adequate oil to limit the compression. A loose connection in the sensor circuit is -always- a loose connection, not just at higher RPM's.
Adding oil is quicker than pulling the cover to check the wiring. But you knew that.
Do a quick refill of the tensioner, and see if it takes much. I've noticed that no oil and therefore no dampening in the tensioner means belt flutter under acceleration. Front side of the belt (DS gear to crank) is under added tension at higher RPM's, leaving less tension on the back end (between crank and pass side cam gear) and more opportuninty for the tensioner to pick up that slack. The check valve and oil passages allow the tensioner to extend quickly, compress slowly, but only when there's adequate oil to limit the compression. A loose connection in the sensor circuit is -always- a loose connection, not just at higher RPM's.
Adding oil is quicker than pulling the cover to check the wiring. But you knew that.
04-15-2009, 11:52 PM
#190
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Shows you how much Im on here these days.
I was curious and searched for the thread...here it is!
Glad its back on the road Keith!
Now back to your regular everday RL 928 topics....ZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
I was curious and searched for the thread...here it is!
Glad its back on the road Keith!
Now back to your regular everday RL 928 topics....ZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
