PorKen

Stock 32V, single electrode, is Bosch WR7DC. (GTS triple is WR7DTC.)

Try a step or two colder, WR6DC(+), or WR5DC(+).

928ntslow

BUMMER! Replaced the fuel pump with a working one. NO START! Opened a fuel line and there is definitely pressurized gas in there.

So to recap, car just decided to not start after leaving a friends house last week.
-Removed EZK and LH and checked them in another GTS, they work fine
-Swapped relays and checked fuses for LH and fuel pump, deemed OK.
-Got 12v at ignition relay pin.
-Fixed in tank pump hose, pump works and replaced exterior pump and it works.

Would both coils go out at the same time? I guess I could check for 12v at both coils. How do I check the coils themselves without getting electrocuted?
So I am back to a possible electrical problem.

Where to next?

Tom. M

Did you pull the plugs again? are they fuel soaked?...also..pull a plug and check for spark?

PorKen

Did you check to see if both front cam gear notches are visible (through the TB breather holes) at TDC, or just if the belt was there?

Bill Ball

Royal bummer.

Have you established that the injectors are firing (noid light or diagnostic test with the Spanner or Theo's program)? If you see wet spark plugs after trying to start, then you could presume they are and you have lost spark, most likely due to the crank reference sensor (er, someone check me here...would a bad crank sensor also kill the signal from the EZK to the LH and then to the injectors?).

I would check for spark at one plug for each coil while cranking. If the plugs are dry, you could do the old shadetree test with a short puff of starter fluid down the MAF throat - if the engine runs briefly, then the problem is lack of fuel.

928ntslow

Haven't checked the plugs. Limited time. I thought the fuel pump would cure the problem. I will do that check tomorrow. I'll check spark and coils too. I checked voltage at the injectors while cranking and they are getting voltage.

I replaced the crank position sensor, so that's not it.

I didn't check the timing position because I made the assumption that when I initially marked the t belt through both breather holes, cranked the engine, I figured the belt was fine. Besides, there is/was nothing that lead me to believe the timing went out. Again, ran great til it didn't/stopped.

Sorry for all the obvious questions. I guess it sounds like I'm lazy and know not what I'm doing. It's just that I don't have the time that I used to spending the day in the garage, playing with the toys. I am just trying to streamline this issue in hopes that some suggestions will lead me directly to the problem.

Bill Ball

Not sure how you check the coils, so i just look at the end spark.

Voltage doesn't tell you much. If there is an internal short, there will be voltage on both sides, as there should be, but one side will not go to ground when the LH tries to fire them.

Oh, yeah. So, check spark. If plugs are dry and spark looks OK, try the ether or something else to check the injectors. There's not much else it can be.

Tony

that doesnt mean they are firing. Have Jen crank the car while you get a mech stethoscope and place it on each injector as the engine is turned over. You will hear a definite CLICK when they fire. You may not hear it other wise because of the insulated fuel rail cover cuts out some of the noise. At that point with the pump fixed you will know you have fuel delivery to the intake valve...uh....and hopfuelly to the combustion chamber Check for spark is easy. Pull all the plugs hook them up and turn over the motor. You will hear them spark, as well as see them.

You have fuel...you know you have spark....now you are down to MIXTURE control in the trouble shoot. From messing with the Sharktuner I've found it does not not take much to keep an engine from starting.

Check your temp II sensor...IRRC that determines the fueling at start up.

Swap MAFs? .

Since you have fuel pressure in the lines pull the fuel pump relay or fuse and start the car. If the engine is RICH/flooded it will eventually start even without a constant fuel supply or anything that has to be there to regulate the mixture. IT will cough when the correct mixture is present and the cylinders start to clear themselves..

in a nut shell try and SPARK....FUEL....then mixture. (easiest to hardest)

HTH.

BTDT...its frustrating when you think you have it...but you dont.

928ntslow

No test relays...all 53's where they should be.

Yea thanks Tony...couple good ideas there. I thought about the II temp sensor but quickly forgot about that.

SharkSkin

You will REALLY see and hear them if they are too close to the spark plug holes in the head and the engine is pumping fuel/air mix out as you crank it. BE CAREFUL.

Tony

A bit of a ramble...but I have been in the midst of a no start issue also....but only when warm after shutting down.
I was measuring my temp II sensor the other day and forgot to hook it back up. Car would not start...the Shark tuner showed a temp of -35'f or something. Not in my garage!! Plugged it in...started right away.

As i mentioned...if you have fuel and spark its down to the metering of the fuel air mixture IMHO. The timing of the spark RARELY fails... the spark itself might but the timing of it rarley does. Ive been tracing down a no start issue in my car recenlty. I got to the point where i was sick of pulling the fuel pump fuse for what was becoming a flooded motor all the time. I put a switch in line with the fuel pump fuse so i can turn the pump off as i crank the motor. I watch my fuel pressure drop on the gauge INSIDE the car (ref another thrread)...that tells me the injectors are firing AND delivering fuel...the car eventually coughs..clears itself and starts and i then flip the switch back on to supply power back to the fuel pump.

I just swapped MAFs and the issue appears to be gone....hence my sugestions of a MAF swap and/or cranking with the fuel pump fuse pulled after pressure is built up.

Tony

Do it at night!! yeah, thats the ticket!!
poof....poof...poofpoof...poof...

SharkSkin

I think it would just be mildly entertaining... unless the engine is flooded. Then it gets exciting. Handy way to check for both spark and fuel at the same time.

SharkSkin

This isn't dangerous until someone empties the can of starter fluid into the intake, washing the oil off the cylinder walls.

Charley B

Tell my eyebrows that.