Charley B

Great job George. Thanks for sharing.

Tahoe Shark

George, I suspect that you had some problems before the GAP. Watching the video it looks like the car is accelerating very slowly out of the turns and getting dragged down into the apex. If you were on time at that point that would explain it but if you were behind average you would be way late coming out of the GAP. I can't remember if you were running 160 or 170 mph. Anyway just an observation not knowing the facts.
200 mph next year!!!!

jorj7

Tim,

The car was running way lean at lower rpm, and accelerating pretty slowly up until 4.9K rpm,
once it got there it was ok. I was running 160 class, so we were still way ahead. After missing the
200+ run at the first speed trap, we were just going for a good finish in class, so we didn't need
to push it too hard the rest of the way.

atb

Wow George, were you in third that entire time in the gap? At those speeds you probably didn't drop below 5500rpms did you? How did the engine handle the heat? I don't think my car could have stayed running at that rpm for that length of time without popping its cork.

H2

Adam brings up a good issue. George, what did you do to keep your engine temps down?

H2

AO

Cool vids George!

So what was the casue of all the oil? Did you blow the dipstick?

IcemanG17

great video as usual!!!! so close yet so far!!!

Bill Ball

The closest source is the oil cooler lines. We had noticed a drip from the attchment to the block. How it got all the way out to the wheel well is still a mystery at this point. Perhaps there was a spray to the side under pressure and it bounced off the bellypan and into the wheel. Usually oil from that source would be blown straight back, but George may have some eddy currents under the car due to the splitter. We plan to observe that area with the car running on the lift and nail it down so we can fix it.

jorj7

Adam,

Third gear traveling 123-146 mph is about 4900-5800 RPM, and the GAP is less then
10 miles. When I had the 2.54 rear end with KDW2 tires, I was going 177-180 mph for
45+ miles at the Pony, and that translates to 5900-6000 rpm. Same types of weather
conditions, same elevation, and more drag. So this is typical for the higher speed classes
of ORR.

H2,

The water temps stayed about 195 degrees (slightly about the last white line, but below the
red). I don't have oil or trans temp gauges, but I'll be adding those this winter. The place
I noticed the most heat was with the intercooler. There was steam coming out of the intercooler
reservoir when we opened the hood. I'll be adding a second heat exchanger and better ducting
before the next race.

Thanks Charley, Andrew, and Brian.

AO

Hope you nail down the leak... Keep us posted.

Tony

perhaps add some glycol to prevent itfrom boilign off? Im not sure if the I/C pump you have is rated for those temps or the uise of glycol though?

as far as oil temps easiest way i did it was to drill out the drain plug and tap it for an autometer temp quage. Teh later cars didnt have a magnet in them anyway.

Im currently looking at a way to get good tranny temps... just tap and weld a bung in the pan for that....

jorj7

Hey Tony,

I did add some "Kool It" to the intercooler reservoir before the race. Suppose to
raise the boiling point 20 degrees. You're right about the pump being able to
handle those temps for very long. Tim had the same concern. I'm hoping the
additional heat exchanger and better ducting will keep the temps down. The
high temps could also be why the stock MAF boot failed...

By the way, my oil plug does have a magnet, so I was going to get another
plug. I also haven't figured out where to attach the trans temp sensor yet.
I was also going to add a water temp gauge to the intercooler system. My
car is going to look like a airplane cockpit by the time I'm done adding all the
gauges...

Richard S

George, you can get a Subaru drain plug already tapped for an oil temp sender...here's the link:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/400855-oil-drain-plug-tapped-for-temp-sender.html


Rich

jorj7

Thanks Rich, I missed that the first time through. Looks like an easy solution. I'll give it a try.

jorj7

It's been a while, but Bill and I just got the car running again. After finding the mangled MAF
boot and Y connector we thought we had found the problem. A couple of weeks ago Bill and
I installed another MAF boot and Y, but the car wouldn't run. It started, but would quickly die.
Well today, Bill came over with his Theo diagnostic tool and we found I also had a bad MAF.
It was working fine before the incident, but now it threw a LH error. We replaced the MAF,
and the car started and ran. So now it's on to Sharktuning for next season, upgrading the intercooler
heat exchangers and a multitude of other improvements.