85 Euro rebuild thread
#18
Race Car
Thread Starter
Thanks
I am reading conflicting information on the cam bolt torque. One post says 47 the other 65 which is correct?
The water pump indicated 6 ft lb's is this Ok?
I am reading conflicting information on the cam bolt torque. One post says 47 the other 65 which is correct?
The water pump indicated 6 ft lb's is this Ok?
#19
Rennlist Member
And 5-6ft/lb for the WP. Keep in mind that that torque is so little, either need a 1/4" drive torque wrench or just even/easy with a std. socket.
#21
Race Car
Thread Starter
Humm I'm not seeing which bolt to put Rtv on the water pump. I stuck a pin in all the holes and they bottom out, am I missing something even the manual does not reference it.
#24
Rennlist Member
Isnt that the one where the cam tensioner arm roller idler mounts the arm to the block??? thats the 13mm type bolt with the 17mm head on it. (m8, right and torqued to 14ft/lbs (20nm)?)
mk
mk
#26
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
As to the cam gears, I'm with Lizard. Once the hard anodized coating is gone the gears start to wear more quickly. They may not look too bad now, but over time, the teeth will dish out and develop sharp edges. Since I only do timing belts every 60K miles (no premature age limit), I replace the cam gears unless it's only a small partial wear of the coating. Sure, you can check them at some interval (say 15K miles). Note that the driver side wears before the passenger side, and the driver side cover is harder to remove for a look-see. The cam gear bolt is 47 ft-lbs (65 Nm). You'll need a PorKen tool to accurately mount the replacement cam gears. The oil pump gear is aluminum from teh factory (replacement is steel) and subject to the same wear issue. The crank gear is steel. I don't see much wear there, but others have reported it. Use a straight-edge to judge the flatness of the tops of the teeth.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 08-06-2008 at 07:41 PM.
#28
Race Car
Thread Starter
Anyone know how to remove this with out breaking something. I thought I might have to remove the fuel lines below the cooler to allow for a little more pull, feedback.
#30