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85 Euro rebuild thread

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Old 08-01-2008, 04:10 PM
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Tampa 928s
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Anyone know which bolt(s) on the water pump need sealant, we are using the Porken tensioner also.
Old 08-01-2008, 04:25 PM
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Jadz928
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There is one. It's the only one on the WP that is on a raised boss (somewhere around 7 o'clock?)
Old 08-01-2008, 05:26 PM
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Thanks
I am reading conflicting information on the cam bolt torque. One post says 47 the other 65 which is correct?
The water pump indicated 6 ft lb's is this Ok?
Old 08-01-2008, 06:04 PM
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Jadz928
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Originally Posted by Tampa 928s
Thanks
I am reading conflicting information on the cam bolt torque. One post says 47 the other 65 which is correct?
The water pump indicated 6 ft lb's is this Ok?
I would go with Bill Ball's 47ft/lb

And 5-6ft/lb for the WP. Keep in mind that that torque is so little, either need a 1/4" drive torque wrench or just even/easy with a std. socket.
Old 08-01-2008, 06:17 PM
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Lizard928
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47 for the cam bolts,

is it 6ft/lbs or in/lbs?
Old 08-01-2008, 07:01 PM
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Humm I'm not seeing which bolt to put Rtv on the water pump. I stuck a pin in all the holes and they bottom out, am I missing something even the manual does not reference it.
Old 08-06-2008, 05:29 PM
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HOW'S THIS TIMING LOOK?
PASS SIDE IS A HAIR OFF!
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Old 08-06-2008, 05:35 PM
  #23  
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looks perfect to me!

mk
Old 08-06-2008, 05:38 PM
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Isnt that the one where the cam tensioner arm roller idler mounts the arm to the block??? thats the 13mm type bolt with the 17mm head on it. (m8, right and torqued to 14ft/lbs (20nm)?)

mk

Originally Posted by Tampa 928s
Humm I'm not seeing which bolt to put Rtv on the water pump. I stuck a pin in all the holes and they bottom out, am I missing something even the manual does not reference it.
Old 08-06-2008, 05:43 PM
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mARK,

ARE YOU REFERING TO THE BOLT NEAR THE HARMONIC BALANCER, IF SO IT'S THE OIL RETURN LINE CLAMP!
Old 08-06-2008, 07:14 PM
  #26  
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As to the cam gears, I'm with Lizard. Once the hard anodized coating is gone the gears start to wear more quickly. They may not look too bad now, but over time, the teeth will dish out and develop sharp edges. Since I only do timing belts every 60K miles (no premature age limit), I replace the cam gears unless it's only a small partial wear of the coating. Sure, you can check them at some interval (say 15K miles). Note that the driver side wears before the passenger side, and the driver side cover is harder to remove for a look-see. The cam gear bolt is 47 ft-lbs (65 Nm). You'll need a PorKen tool to accurately mount the replacement cam gears. The oil pump gear is aluminum from teh factory (replacement is steel) and subject to the same wear issue. The crank gear is steel. I don't see much wear there, but others have reported it. Use a straight-edge to judge the flatness of the tops of the teeth.

Last edited by Bill Ball; 08-06-2008 at 07:41 PM.
Old 08-06-2008, 07:42 PM
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Jim bailey - 928 International
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Bill he has a Euro 16 valve as I recall no cam gear adjustment and cam tool needed....
Old 08-06-2008, 07:59 PM
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Anyone know how to remove this with out breaking something. I thought I might have to remove the fuel lines below the cooler to allow for a little more pull, feedback.
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Old 08-07-2008, 10:34 AM
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ANYONE HAVE FEEDBACK ON THE EXPANSION VALVE THIS MORNING ?
I WANT THIS OUT OF MY GARAGE AND GET STARTED ON MY 82-GTS!
Old 08-07-2008, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Tampa 928s
I need to find a compressor his is locked up!
I have a 79' compressor that I stripped from my track car. It worked when I removed it and I will return your money if it does not work for you.

$150.00 + shipping and I will put the funds into my Rennwish donation pile


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