G Man

Dwayne. Great write up as usual. Here are a couple of links that give great info about brakes and how to properly bed in new pads. Hope it is useful to you or someone else.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Charley B

Great job Dwayne. thanks.

whitefox

I used to work in a brake shop and the standard shop machines that use a chain to wrap around the reservoir won't work due to the odd shape and placement. 928 specialists make a speed bleeder valve that is spring loaded which makes quick work of the bleeding job. There are a couple other machines you could buy but I believe the bleeder valves are the cheapest. Then there is always the free way of getting a helper and do it the old school way, open, down, close, up....

Mike Frye

Dwayne,

I'd like to make a business proposition: What with YOUR ability to do all this work, take pics and do great write-ups, and MY desire to make money without having to do much of anything, we could be very successful writing How-to manuals. It's a match made in heaven!

What do you say, is it a deal?





Thanks for another great write-up.

Hey Randy! We've got another one for the DIY section.

bd0nalds0n

http://www.amazon.com/Motive-0101-Un.../dp/B0002KM5LA

Dr. Bob did a writeup on building you own power bleeder out of home depot parts...

G Man

I have seen a number of threads about using a vacume bleeder to bleed the lines here. Wouldn't one of those work?

IcemanG17

Dwayne
Nice write up.....I did the same thing a while back...painted rotors and dust shields.....I used high temp BBQ paint...its holding up fine on the rears, but the fronts are starting to rust through....but I think the high temps from the track don't help the fronts either

F451

Excellent! I have this job queued up with a bunch of brake parts in the garage for my S4.

Thanks so much for taking the time to document this! It's another great reference on top of the other ones that have been written up by listers previously. -Ed

No_Substitute

thank you dwayne!

you make it look easy enough for a cartard like me

atb

Nice write up Dwayne, first class job.

Bill Ball

Dwayne:

I have archived your new masterpiece, with your permission.
http://www.dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/

Yep, 4 years is too long for the fluid. Brake fluid is ignored in the US, for some reason. I do a color change (ATE Blue versus Gold), with a Power Bleeder, but I can tell you it's not 100 effective - the fluids mix and if you are going from blue to gold, you will never get pure gold color. So, it would seem the old fluid needs to be drained and flushed first to be 100% effective. I haven't done that.

The red stud thing is confusing. The 88MY tech book says it should go NEAREST the valve stem, not opposite, but I've seen opposite in other Porsche documentation. And yes, with the new non-key lock, that is no longer relevant. That's good, because my red paint is long gone.

Jim provided some brake bedding procedures. I've added Porsche's below. It's pretty rigorous.

Landseer

Dwayne, what kind of work do you do in real life?

Dwayne

Hello Bill,
THANKS for archiving the writeup - I really appreciate that!!

I might be able to clear up the confusion on the RED STUD. From section 44 page 9 of the WSM I found this description....

"If a wheel is removed from the vehicle during service operations, the wheel stud next to the valve or, in the case of 17 inch wheels (Cup Design), the wheel stud opposite the valve should first be marked with red paint. (This is to ensure that the wheel is refitted in the same position relative to the wheel hub or brake disc). In addition, rotate the valve so it is in the upper position or, in the case of 17 inch wheels, in the lower posltlon, before the wheel is tightened on the wheel hub (also refer to page 44 - 13). This prevents the optimum balancing effect that was obtained by stationary balancing or by additional
finish balancing from being lost. The lockable wheel must be fitted to the color-coded stud."

Since the Wife's '88 is fitted with 17" cup design wheels, I opted to follow the "opposite valve stem" instructions. However, it also clearly states locating the stud closest the valve stem on stock wheels. I will add this clarification in the writeup. THANKS for catching this one - not everyone is fitted with the same wheels as we have on the '88. I will also add that this procedure is not needed if the factory (heavy) locks have been removed or replaced with lighter ones.

Also, thanks for the add'l info on brake pad break-in. Seems straight forward....a little scary for a Noob like me.....but.....OK!

Dwayne

Hi Jim!
THANKS for the links to the break-in procedures - read both of them - very good!

I did try the vacuum pump/bleeder kit previously on the '84. I had a hard time monitoring the reservior level while pumping up the vacuum and kept sucking air into the brake lines. I finally did get it figured out but not before sucking brake fluid into the vacuum pump itself which ruined it! Lots of fun! Ha Ha!

This time, I think I want to try one of the power bleeders and see how that works.

Dwayne

Hello Brian,
Thanks for the link to the power bleeder. I checked it out....they make a european import version with 45mm threaded cap which garnered good reviews (2 anyway). I think I'm gonna buy this one as soon as I measure the diameter of the reservior cap and confirm 45mm. Probably get the ATE blue fluid as well. Great tip....THANKS!