Tampa 928s

Call it Dwayne's world posts from the left coast!
How come your not a technical writer, you make the complex look simple.
Good job

heyjeffm

Excellent write-up Dwayne. Thanks for the info!!!

JoeTaylor

Hi Dwayne,

Thanks for the great tutorial on removing and re-installing the fuel sender unit. Your photos and instructions were very clear. You're the man!

I just changed my fuel sender in my 1988 928 S4 based on your post and it went smooth as silk.

I was having the "bouncing needle" at low tank levels problem and from what I have read on the board, its an indication of corrosion on the fuel sender assembly. Rather that pulling fuel sender out and cleaning it, I just bought a new fuel sender and gasket, replacing the whole assembly.

All in all, it took only about 15 minutes to do, plus a little clean up. I did it with the tank "empty" according to the old gauge and the car well ventilated, IE windows and doors open. Needle bouncing seems to have stopped with the new gauge and I filled up the tank after I finished to check for leaks.

All looks good for now, no gas smells in the car, etc. Pretty nice.

Thanks again,
Joe

jpitman2

I have mixed thoughts about working on an empty fuel tank - they can be the most dangerous, as there is the meximum amount of explosive mixture present - a tank full of air-fuel mixed. In fact many accidents occur every year with people working on empty tanks think they are safe. One method to render them safer once out of the car is to fill with water and empty,or run a long hose from an running engine's exhaust pipe into one hole for a while to push the flammable vapour out another hole. I know its scary to work on an open tank that got lots of fuel in it,but in some ways its safer.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k.

JoeTaylor

Hi JP,

My thoughts too, but I had read about more problems with the tank full. IE fuel spashing around with you pull out the sender.

Remember, you have to lift, tip and drain the sender before you pull it all the way out. Also, I had an old towel (a throw away) to put under the sender when I moved it out of the tank, so I had no drops of gas hit anywhere inside the car.

I was in and out of there so quickly, there really wasn't much to go wrong. Everything was prepared in advance.

One comment, there was a little gas dripped out on the tank in the depression on the top of the tank, where the fuel sender installs. Remembering that gas floats on water. After I located, aligned and installed the new sender, hooking up the vent tube, I spritzed some Windex around the plastic ring that screws down to hold the fuel sender in place and wiped up any dribbles of fuel/Windex with paper towels.

I did the Windex cleanup before reconnecting the electrical connector on the top of the sender. IE, no fumes.

Worked like a charm, I hope this helps.

VTY,
Joe

Dwayne

THANKS for the feedback, Joe. Glad to hear it went smoothly and successfully - good work!

Tampa 928s

Your the man, I have done most of the maintenance and repairs that you describe when I get done always say, I should of taken pictures. My pictures consist of various shots along the way but never a step by step like you. Your a real asset to the community
After 5 rebuilds 4 not running it's always nice to go to your posts and remind me of the details, the mind is the first to go at my age!

jayc67

Gonna step out here and say that it appears you have moved way beyond noobie status, and thanks for another great piece of documentation!

sanjay28

EXCELLENT! I know this is an old thread, but I had the exact same issue occur yesterday after I filled up. I did a search and this was the first thead that came up.

You're the man Dwayne! Thank you so much.

sanjay28

I just went out and took a look...I found it exactly as described - fuel sitting in there. I soaked up the fuel and cleaned it out, but I also found this:

What is the best way to replace the switch? Just cut the wires and splice in the new switch?

sanjay28

One more question...is the seal the "O ring seal" (part #928 201 327 02)?

Dwayne

Hello Sanjay,
The goop in your photo looks like some sort of silicone rubber sealant. If so, I would recommend cutting/removing the sealant before cutting and splicing the wiring harness. After removing the sealant, you may find the plug is simply missing the cap. In which case you may obtain a used one (or new one?) from one of our vendors. If the base of the plug is also damaged, you can easily replace the plug and cap with a used one too. Once you remove the rubbery sealant, the wires will separate from the plug easily - there's a pic earlier in this post. I would recommend trying this route before cutting the harness.
The second question you had about the gasket part number is correct - that's the part number.
Let us know how it turns out.

sanjay28

Thanks Dwayne! I ordered the O ring; it should be here next week - I'll let you know how it goes.

By the way, I put "Dwayne's Garage" in my Favorites Bar Your How-To write are excellent! Thanks very much for your numerous contibutions to the forum for newbies like me.

blaydrunner

Quick question...when you unplug the power plug from the sending unit....should the fuel gauge drop to empty?

I have a problem with my gauge reading FULL at all times. Unplugged the power...still reads FULL.

Any help is appreciated.

antsmands

Fantastic Job as usual!