88 Fuel Sender Seal Replacement w/pics
#31
Rennlist Member
#32
Team Owner
And as an addendum to this thread, in the WSM it advises to soak the sender securing nut in very hot water for a few minutes this will expand it ,
then fit to the tank and tighten it with the new tank seal.
An expanded nut will tighten further and thus reduce the tendency of future leaks.
then fit to the tank and tighten it with the new tank seal.
An expanded nut will tighten further and thus reduce the tendency of future leaks.
#33
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Dwayne - Followed your writeup to perform my very first brake job ever. It went flawlessly because you provided so much detail. I have the same problem with a broken seal and appreciate the time you spent to document the procedure.
#35
Just changed my seal using these instructions, but I used the hot towel method to heat up the plastic nut, thus expanding it allowing for easier opening (by hand - no tool required) - I placed a wet rag in the microwave to get it extra toasty, then pressed it against the nut for a minute or so to transfer the heat - worked like a charm. One tip I thought I'd add: you can use a 1/2 drive socket extension to temporarily plug up the hose, thus preventing any residual fuel from dripping. Once plugged, I used tape on the extension to tie it off to the side, out of the way.
#36
Just changed my seal using these instructions, but I used the hot towel method to heat up the plastic nut, thus expanding it allowing for easier opening (by hand - no tool required) - I placed a wet rag in the microwave to get it extra toasty, then pressed it against the nut for a minute or so to transfer the heat - worked like a charm. One tip I thought I'd add: you can use a 1/2 drive socket extension to temporarily plug up the hose, thus preventing any residual fuel from dripping. Once plugged, I used tape on the extension to tie it off to the side, out of the way.
#37
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Lifetime Rennlist
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Just came across this thread. Is this the first step to check if one notices a fuel smell after filling the tank nearly full? My fuel gauge works fine. I like the hot rag for plastic nut removal. Also I assume it is good idea to disconnect the battery before starting this job to evaluate the fuel sending unit?
There have been more than a few reports of cracking at the top of the tank, generally due to inadequate or incorrectly placed rubber pads where the tank contacts the steel tub. The straps and the saddle that cradle the tank came with foam padding too, stuff that has deteriorated to dust in many cases. Bottom line is that a tank fracture is not that rare, so you'll want to include that possibility in your potential-causes list.
#38
Fuel vapour smell?
Hiya,
I thought I had this one pegged. I have a fuel vapour smell, no gas on the floor or anything. A mech replaced a washer in the fuel filter but the smell persisted. I ran the car a few mins and followed the write up. When I lifted the white cover and smelt over the sender unit I could detect fuel. The mech says a vapour smell won’t be coming from the sending unit, it might be the filler neck? He said if the sender had a bad seal, it would leak liquid fuel not vapour. Thoughts there? It was dry, dirty, but dry. I started in on the process to check the seal but couldn’t loosen the plastic nut. I sprayed a tiny amount of WD40 on top to see if it’d work to loosen it but nada. The hose was also a MAJOR pain to remove. It can’t be pulled off by hand. It’s way too tight. I had to wiggle it down with a pair of pliers and a screw driver but I’m worried it will damage the end of the hose.
how do you properly remove a hose? What tools? Wrap the hose in a Towel and use pliers? How do you loosen this nut? I’ll try the hot towel thing.
I thought I had this one pegged. I have a fuel vapour smell, no gas on the floor or anything. A mech replaced a washer in the fuel filter but the smell persisted. I ran the car a few mins and followed the write up. When I lifted the white cover and smelt over the sender unit I could detect fuel. The mech says a vapour smell won’t be coming from the sending unit, it might be the filler neck? He said if the sender had a bad seal, it would leak liquid fuel not vapour. Thoughts there? It was dry, dirty, but dry. I started in on the process to check the seal but couldn’t loosen the plastic nut. I sprayed a tiny amount of WD40 on top to see if it’d work to loosen it but nada. The hose was also a MAJOR pain to remove. It can’t be pulled off by hand. It’s way too tight. I had to wiggle it down with a pair of pliers and a screw driver but I’m worried it will damage the end of the hose.
how do you properly remove a hose? What tools? Wrap the hose in a Towel and use pliers? How do you loosen this nut? I’ll try the hot towel thing.
#39
Rennlist Member
Which hose do you speak of - the return line one going into the sender unit? This one is a real pain, easy to damage the end at the tank trying to ease it off using a screwdriver. I got the plastic nut off by using 2 long screwdrivers at 45degrees, levering one against the other with the tips engaged in the ridges on the cap. Being able to turn the sender can make hose removal a little easier. It helps when refitting the plastic cap to heat it in boiling water. I replaced my tank due to spinning the outlet filter threaded insert. While it was out I replaced the short return line hose - its clipped end on the steel line pulled off the pipe with hardly any effort, so I fitted the new one with jubilee clips.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
#40
Instructor
Discovered this thread after having recently filled up and parked in the garage when I smelled gas, saw it dripping and then found it sloshing about around the sender. The not funny thing is that I had filled it during the first couple of shake down runs for this very recently restored 1986.5 barn find (those times I went right from the station to the highway). WHEW and thanks Dwayne.