Need help with instrument cluster '82
#1
Need help with instrument cluster '82
ok, my problem child is still here and I'm at my breaking point
background: car sat outside at the beach for 7+ yrs, electrical has been a nightmare on this thing, I've pretty much been thru the whole car and everything is working EXCEPT
had cluster rebuilt due to damage from salt and po (foil destroyed), I sent the cluster to a well known instrument rebuilder we use all the time...
turns out (looking at Dwaynes post) he used an 84 foil for the rebuild despite me telling him this would probably cause problems
my issues now are:
1) turn signal makes high beam flash, high beam turns on turn signal indicator light
2) speedo/odo inop (I installed a new pulse thingy in the tranny yesterday, no diff)
3) fuel gauge reads 1/2 tank and I know it doesn't have that much in it
I've been trying to read the wiring diagrams but I'm lost, I need to get these last few things to work so it can go home to the owner.... any help would be GREATLY appreciated
here's a pic of the old/new clusters
background: car sat outside at the beach for 7+ yrs, electrical has been a nightmare on this thing, I've pretty much been thru the whole car and everything is working EXCEPT
had cluster rebuilt due to damage from salt and po (foil destroyed), I sent the cluster to a well known instrument rebuilder we use all the time...
turns out (looking at Dwaynes post) he used an 84 foil for the rebuild despite me telling him this would probably cause problems
my issues now are:
1) turn signal makes high beam flash, high beam turns on turn signal indicator light
2) speedo/odo inop (I installed a new pulse thingy in the tranny yesterday, no diff)
3) fuel gauge reads 1/2 tank and I know it doesn't have that much in it
I've been trying to read the wiring diagrams but I'm lost, I need to get these last few things to work so it can go home to the owner.... any help would be GREATLY appreciated
here's a pic of the old/new clusters
#2
Can you not find a old cluser somewhare here on the list? I bought one several years ago from Zims. I think I bought the last new one in the world. But there might be one sitting on a shelf in a warehouse somewhere.
#3
Hello Rixter,
Unfortunately, I don't know how compatible the '82 and '84 clusters/plastic circuit boards are. However, I did a quick-n-dirty trace this morning between the '82 and '84 wiring diagrams for the speedometer since you are having problems with that.
On the '84 Instrument Cluster (IC) the speedometer pulse signal from the speed sensor arrives through pin #2 of the left wiring harness. The '82 wiring diagram appears to be the same (depicted as "2L" on the wiring diagram). Pin #2 Left traces back to terminal H1 of the CEB on the '84 and is the same on the '82 (according to the wiring diagram).
Power for the speedometer for the '84 arrives through pin #8 of the middle wiring harness. The '82 wiring diagram appears to be the same (depicted as "8M" on the wiring diagram). Pin #8 Middle traces back to terminal H6 of the CEB on the '84 and is the same on the '82.
Ground for the speedometer for the '84 arrives through pin #13 of the right wiring harness. The '82 wiring diagram appears to be the same. Pin #13 Right traces back to terminal H2 of the CEB on the '84 and is the same on the '82. Pin #13 Right also is connected to Pin #9 Right which traces directly to ground at the steering console on the '84. The '82 wiring diagram, again, shows the same connections.
At first glance of a comparison of wiring diagrams, it looks like the speedo basic inputs are the same and mapped to the same sources at the CEB. It may be worthwhile to check the source signals at the CEB to see if they are even getting to the IC. You can check the pulse signal by attaching a voltmeter to terminals H1 and H2 at the CEB. I used an analog voltmeter rather than a digital voltmeter so I could watch the needle on the meter respond to the pulse signals. Then start and drive the car very slowly forward. You should see an appoximatley 12V pulse (on then off then on, etc.) as you slowly move forward. This will confirm that pulses are at least being generated and sent to the IC. You can also check terminal H6 a the CEB to see if you are getting voltage to the speedometer.
Hope this helps......
Unfortunately, I don't know how compatible the '82 and '84 clusters/plastic circuit boards are. However, I did a quick-n-dirty trace this morning between the '82 and '84 wiring diagrams for the speedometer since you are having problems with that.
On the '84 Instrument Cluster (IC) the speedometer pulse signal from the speed sensor arrives through pin #2 of the left wiring harness. The '82 wiring diagram appears to be the same (depicted as "2L" on the wiring diagram). Pin #2 Left traces back to terminal H1 of the CEB on the '84 and is the same on the '82 (according to the wiring diagram).
Power for the speedometer for the '84 arrives through pin #8 of the middle wiring harness. The '82 wiring diagram appears to be the same (depicted as "8M" on the wiring diagram). Pin #8 Middle traces back to terminal H6 of the CEB on the '84 and is the same on the '82.
Ground for the speedometer for the '84 arrives through pin #13 of the right wiring harness. The '82 wiring diagram appears to be the same. Pin #13 Right traces back to terminal H2 of the CEB on the '84 and is the same on the '82. Pin #13 Right also is connected to Pin #9 Right which traces directly to ground at the steering console on the '84. The '82 wiring diagram, again, shows the same connections.
At first glance of a comparison of wiring diagrams, it looks like the speedo basic inputs are the same and mapped to the same sources at the CEB. It may be worthwhile to check the source signals at the CEB to see if they are even getting to the IC. You can check the pulse signal by attaching a voltmeter to terminals H1 and H2 at the CEB. I used an analog voltmeter rather than a digital voltmeter so I could watch the needle on the meter respond to the pulse signals. Then start and drive the car very slowly forward. You should see an appoximatley 12V pulse (on then off then on, etc.) as you slowly move forward. This will confirm that pulses are at least being generated and sent to the IC. You can also check terminal H6 a the CEB to see if you are getting voltage to the speedometer.
Hope this helps......
#4
Dwayne,
thanks, reading the flow charts I thought it looked the same as well, but the speedo worked before rebuild, and I still have the highbeam/turn sig issue..
I have noticed this on the back (thanks to your writeup)
red is rivet w/solder, yellow is rivet only, green is ? at this time
not sure I completely understand the rivet/solder deal and whether this may be part of my problem, or.. is this board just completely incompatible with the '82
thanks, reading the flow charts I thought it looked the same as well, but the speedo worked before rebuild, and I still have the highbeam/turn sig issue..
I have noticed this on the back (thanks to your writeup)
red is rivet w/solder, yellow is rivet only, green is ? at this time
not sure I completely understand the rivet/solder deal and whether this may be part of my problem, or.. is this board just completely incompatible with the '82
#7
Yes, I would agree. Soldering the same 4 rivets on the '84 as I did may clear up the speedo problem. It did on mine.
As far as the rivet opening you have the green box around....on mine it simply goes to another rivet opening located just under the left phillips screw that holds the speedo hard circuit board in place. It appears to perform no function and there are no rivets securing either end in place.
I also notice that you have three posts with securing nuts at the back of the tachometer on your old and new ICs for which I have no posts or securing nuts. Mine just had factory tape over the holes. Might be worth tracing these down??
I actually have my IC out today but am going to put it back in shortly.....in case you want me to check something out.
As far as the rivet opening you have the green box around....on mine it simply goes to another rivet opening located just under the left phillips screw that holds the speedo hard circuit board in place. It appears to perform no function and there are no rivets securing either end in place.
I also notice that you have three posts with securing nuts at the back of the tachometer on your old and new ICs for which I have no posts or securing nuts. Mine just had factory tape over the holes. Might be worth tracing these down??
I actually have my IC out today but am going to put it back in shortly.....in case you want me to check something out.
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#8
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,932
Likes: 1
From: Seattle, where everyone is above average, and the women are all beautiful
dang, that looks like it could be the reason I have to "smack" the top of the cluster to get the speedo to start working every third time I drive my car.
One more thing to put on the list, where did I put that lotto ticket.....
One more thing to put on the list, where did I put that lotto ticket.....
#9
My fuel gauge is off, too. When imported, the speedo was switched to MPH. The fuel gauge needle was bumped and when full, read about 1/4 tank. When I replaced the pod, I opened it and moved the needle over - just not enough. Now when full, mine reads 3/4. Try taking the clear cover off and moving the fuel needle on it's pin to a more proper location.
Hopefully, it's that simple to knock one problem off the list.
Hopefully, it's that simple to knock one problem off the list.
#10
ok, we have power, ground and continuity thru the whole system from pulse sensor to plug at IC, speedo still inop... I'm thinking the rebuilder only put the foil on and didn't rebuild the speedo as asked, and didn't check to see that it actually worked before shipping back to me..
on the bright side....... I swapped the plastic face plate and the turn sig/high beam issue is resolved, I'm really slow sometimes
on the bright side....... I swapped the plastic face plate and the turn sig/high beam issue is resolved, I'm really slow sometimes
#11
Rixter,
Please keep us posted on your progress. I recently replaced the foil on my car and now have a dead speedo. I am looking for a fix. I am a little nervous to start soldering unless I know it will help.
Thanks,
Please keep us posted on your progress. I recently replaced the foil on my car and now have a dead speedo. I am looking for a fix. I am a little nervous to start soldering unless I know it will help.
Thanks,
#12
I nominate this for a model helpful knowledgeable reply
Hello Rixter,
Unfortunately, I don't know how compatible the '82 and '84 clusters/plastic circuit boards are. However, I did a quick-n-dirty trace this morning between the '82 and '84 wiring diagrams for the speedometer since you are having problems with that.
On the '84 Instrument Cluster (IC) the speedometer pulse signal from the speed sensor arrives through pin #2 of the left wiring harness. The '82 wiring diagram appears to be the same (depicted as "2L" on the wiring diagram). Pin #2 Left traces back to terminal H1 of the CEB on the '84 and is the same on the '82 (according to the wiring diagram).
Power for the speedometer for the '84 arrives through pin #8 of the middle wiring harness. The '82 wiring diagram appears to be the same (depicted as "8M" on the wiring diagram). Pin #8 Middle traces back to terminal H6 of the CEB on the '84 and is the same on the '82.
Ground for the speedometer for the '84 arrives through pin #13 of the right wiring harness. The '82 wiring diagram appears to be the same. Pin #13 Right traces back to terminal H2 of the CEB on the '84 and is the same on the '82. Pin #13 Right also is connected to Pin #9 Right which traces directly to ground at the steering console on the '84. The '82 wiring diagram, again, shows the same connections.
At first glance of a comparison of wiring diagrams, it looks like the speedo basic inputs are the same and mapped to the same sources at the CEB. It may be worthwhile to check the source signals at the CEB to see if they are even getting to the IC. You can check the pulse signal by attaching a voltmeter to terminals H1 and H2 at the CEB. I used an analog voltmeter rather than a digital voltmeter so I could watch the needle on the meter respond to the pulse signals. Then start and drive the car very slowly forward. You should see an appoximatley 12V pulse (on then off then on, etc.) as you slowly move forward. This will confirm that pulses are at least being generated and sent to the IC. You can also check terminal H6 a the CEB to see if you are getting voltage to the speedometer.
Hope this helps......
Unfortunately, I don't know how compatible the '82 and '84 clusters/plastic circuit boards are. However, I did a quick-n-dirty trace this morning between the '82 and '84 wiring diagrams for the speedometer since you are having problems with that.
On the '84 Instrument Cluster (IC) the speedometer pulse signal from the speed sensor arrives through pin #2 of the left wiring harness. The '82 wiring diagram appears to be the same (depicted as "2L" on the wiring diagram). Pin #2 Left traces back to terminal H1 of the CEB on the '84 and is the same on the '82 (according to the wiring diagram).
Power for the speedometer for the '84 arrives through pin #8 of the middle wiring harness. The '82 wiring diagram appears to be the same (depicted as "8M" on the wiring diagram). Pin #8 Middle traces back to terminal H6 of the CEB on the '84 and is the same on the '82.
Ground for the speedometer for the '84 arrives through pin #13 of the right wiring harness. The '82 wiring diagram appears to be the same. Pin #13 Right traces back to terminal H2 of the CEB on the '84 and is the same on the '82. Pin #13 Right also is connected to Pin #9 Right which traces directly to ground at the steering console on the '84. The '82 wiring diagram, again, shows the same connections.
At first glance of a comparison of wiring diagrams, it looks like the speedo basic inputs are the same and mapped to the same sources at the CEB. It may be worthwhile to check the source signals at the CEB to see if they are even getting to the IC. You can check the pulse signal by attaching a voltmeter to terminals H1 and H2 at the CEB. I used an analog voltmeter rather than a digital voltmeter so I could watch the needle on the meter respond to the pulse signals. Then start and drive the car very slowly forward. You should see an appoximatley 12V pulse (on then off then on, etc.) as you slowly move forward. This will confirm that pulses are at least being generated and sent to the IC. You can also check terminal H6 a the CEB to see if you are getting voltage to the speedometer.
Hope this helps......
#13
the cluster is on it's way back to the rebuilder... had a long talk with them this am, will let you know how it turns out
on the bright side, I now know more about checking speedo signal than I ever expected to
thanks again to Dwayne for his great writeup on the cluster
on the bright side, I now know more about checking speedo signal than I ever expected to
thanks again to Dwayne for his great writeup on the cluster