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I had the same problem with this. I found info on just finger tightening and some run down tight. I ran mine down tight w/ red loctite.
I haven't worked with head studs, but I know on the crank studs that they are "floating". Make sure to measure the height of the stud BEFORE removal. If you crank them down all the way not enough of the stud will be exposed. This becomes evident when you lay the crank and main bearings, loctite the girdle, and then go to torque the main stud nuts on and the main studs DO NOT protrude through the nut.
[Que Mission Impossible theme, do quick calc on how long it takes Loctite 574 and red loctite on the studs to cure, then set the speed record for block tear down. ]
if your installing new studs then you should keep an old head gasket handy so you can torque the heads onto the block just after you install the new studs, let them sit this way for a day so the loctite cures in the loaded position
I haven't worked with head studs, but I know on the crank studs that they are "floating". Make sure to measure the height of the stud BEFORE removal. If you crank them down all the way not enough of the stud will be exposed. This becomes evident when you lay the crank and main bearings, loctite the girdle, and then go to torque the main stud nuts on and the main studs DO NOT protrude through the nut.
[Que Mission Impossible theme, do quick calc on how long it takes Loctite 574 and red loctite on the studs to cure, then set the speed record for block tear down. ]
if your installing new studs then you should keep an old head gasket handy so you can torque the heads onto the block just after you install the new studs, let them sit this way for a day so the loctite cures in the loaded position
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