Head stud questions
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 499
Likes: 19
From: Duluth MN
Head stud questions
I'm having a block bored. I need to remove the studs. I'm too busy to get out there and experiment with this, so I thought I'd ask a couple questions and see If I can expedite the process as soon as I have time.
1) Have you ever pulled em?
2) what method did you use? (Specialty tool or double nut, did you use heat in the block?) Give it up.
3) which kind gold or old?
4) did you re-use em?
5) if you guys are not re-using them, where's the best price for replacements? (aftermarket or stealer)
1) Have you ever pulled em?
2) what method did you use? (Specialty tool or double nut, did you use heat in the block?) Give it up.
3) which kind gold or old?
4) did you re-use em?
5) if you guys are not re-using them, where's the best price for replacements? (aftermarket or stealer)
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 4,871
Likes: 41
From: Puyallup, WA
LOL!
I haven't removed head studs, but I have removed the crank studs. If they are held in by the same threadlock heat definitely helps. Propane didn't do the trick, I had to get the MAP gas, with channel locks.
I know of a few motors where the crank studs were removed and reused. I guess its arguable that the crank studs don't see the same abuse as the head studs, but so far so good.
Is you have pre '89 heads, I think Carl at 928 Motorsports can set you up with studs. I don't think any of the rennlist sponsors carry studs for '89 and newer, and even the non-sponsor's batch order are few and far between.
There has been alot of discussion regarding what type of material should be used for the studs. There have been incidents reported that use of a particular kind of popular ARP head stud resulted in the stud breaking because apparently it didn't expand at the same rate as the aluminum heads.
Maybe do a search, it has been covered quite a bit, but I don't know that a definitive answer had ever been reached with regard to an off the shelf match for the later heads.
I haven't removed head studs, but I have removed the crank studs. If they are held in by the same threadlock heat definitely helps. Propane didn't do the trick, I had to get the MAP gas, with channel locks.
I know of a few motors where the crank studs were removed and reused. I guess its arguable that the crank studs don't see the same abuse as the head studs, but so far so good.
Is you have pre '89 heads, I think Carl at 928 Motorsports can set you up with studs. I don't think any of the rennlist sponsors carry studs for '89 and newer, and even the non-sponsor's batch order are few and far between.
There has been alot of discussion regarding what type of material should be used for the studs. There have been incidents reported that use of a particular kind of popular ARP head stud resulted in the stud breaking because apparently it didn't expand at the same rate as the aluminum heads.
Maybe do a search, it has been covered quite a bit, but I don't know that a definitive answer had ever been reached with regard to an off the shelf match for the later heads.
Drifting
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,747
Likes: 3
From: Owasso, OK
918,
There is a specialty tool which I believe is called a stud extractor. It is a clamping type of devise that goes on a rachet and extension and works at the block surface level. Double nutting is done at the top of the stud and could twist/break the stud. I would expect the machine shop to have this tool and remove the studs as part of their service.
Extracting can bend the studs so new ones made of unobtainium should be used.
Dennis
There is a specialty tool which I believe is called a stud extractor. It is a clamping type of devise that goes on a rachet and extension and works at the block surface level. Double nutting is done at the top of the stud and could twist/break the stud. I would expect the machine shop to have this tool and remove the studs as part of their service.
Extracting can bend the studs so new ones made of unobtainium should be used.
Dennis
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 499
Likes: 19
From: Duluth MN
918,
There is a specialty tool which I believe is called a stud extractor. It is a clamping type of devise that goes on a rachet and extension and works at the block surface level. Double nutting is done at the top of the stud and could twist/break the stud. I would expect the machine shop to have this tool and remove the studs as part of their service.
Extracting can bend the studs so new ones made of unobtainium should be used.
Dennis
There is a specialty tool which I believe is called a stud extractor. It is a clamping type of devise that goes on a rachet and extension and works at the block surface level. Double nutting is done at the top of the stud and could twist/break the stud. I would expect the machine shop to have this tool and remove the studs as part of their service.
Extracting can bend the studs so new ones made of unobtainium should be used.
Dennis
Thanks for the reply. I stopped by the machine shop the other day to discuss the boring process. I asked them about pulling the studs. The Rube Goldberg devise the shop had worked on the top end of the stud and I was told by them that it often damages the studs.
So I'm looking for options.
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 5,286
Likes: 16
From: Austin, TX
I didn't use heat, soaked in liquid wrench, proceeded to remove head studs with a pipe wrench. got about 2/3rd's of the way home and snapped one off in the block. Mind you this was January in NY. It was about 30 degrees F.
Gory details in "old bugger coming out" thread.
If anyone has a sure fire way of doing this, I'd like to know. Don't think I'll be doing this again.
And how the hell do you heat a block? Some big *** oven! BBQ grill?
Gory details in "old bugger coming out" thread.
If anyone has a sure fire way of doing this, I'd like to know. Don't think I'll be doing this again.
And how the hell do you heat a block? Some big *** oven! BBQ grill?
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Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 4,871
Likes: 41
From: Puyallup, WA
918,
There is a specialty tool which I believe is called a stud extractor. It is a clamping type of devise that goes on a rachet and extension and works at the block surface level. Double nutting is done at the top of the stud and could twist/break the stud. I would expect the machine shop to have this tool and remove the studs as part of their service.
There is a specialty tool which I believe is called a stud extractor. It is a clamping type of devise that goes on a rachet and extension and works at the block surface level. Double nutting is done at the top of the stud and could twist/break the stud. I would expect the machine shop to have this tool and remove the studs as part of their service.
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Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 4,871
Likes: 41
From: Puyallup, WA
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 4,871
Likes: 41
From: Puyallup, WA
You've got the magic touch Dennis. I tried propane on the block, trying to avoid the studs, and just didn't have the technique to make it work. I agree though, you don't want to cook the studs.
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 5,286
Likes: 16
From: Austin, TX
I've got new head studs and a desire to deck the block, anyone want to come by and give me a demonstration, I can supply my address, beer and steak dinner.
Otherwise, I think I cower in corner
Sorry for the self indulgent high jack
Otherwise, I think I cower in corner
Sorry for the self indulgent high jack
Haven't needed to replace it yet. (knock on wood)
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Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 18,870
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From: Irvine, CA
I don't even remember why I bought it, some project that didn't end up requiring it, most likely. Sears still lists them:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...s&keyword=4458
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...s&keyword=4458