Big AL in VA

I pulled the head studs on my 84 Euro. Used the head stud extraction tool pictured in this thread. Use heat as a last resort. If you use heat only use propane the other gas burns too hot. I actually broke a stud off and was lucky to have a half inch still above the block. Heat from a propane torch and another stud extractor (not pictured in this thread). This stud extractor grabbed the stud very close to the block. The one pictured in this thread gets to about 1/2" from the block.

Be very careful not to gauld the block. Once I slipped with the stud extractor and took a very small peice of the aluminum block.

FBIII

I have one that looks like a sparkplug deepwell socket that slides over the stud. It has three rollers in it that clamp against the stud once torque is applied. I think mine might work better in that the force is applied directly over the stud and not off to the side as in the craftsman tool. The one I have comes in one mm increments, so its not a one size fits all tool. If you plan on reusing the studs I would definitely not try double nutting. And using vice grips or a pipe wrench will invariably chew up the side of the stud and at a minimum damaging the protective plating. Your certainly can borrow mine as well. I'd rather see it get used again and save someone the cost of a one time used tool.

Mrmerlin

you need to heat the block, 2 friends with MAPP gas torches seem to work well dont be shy on the heat the Loctite wont let the studs come out with out a fight. use lots of PB or Kroil

atb

Good find with the craftsman tool, that's definitely the design.

918-S

Great info guys. Thanks for the offer of the loan of the tools. I think I'll just go purchase one at Sears or NAPA on Monday. I was wondering if the studs were installed with loctite. I will use the MAP gas method. I have a couple tanks as well as an oxy/acetalene set up..

Anyone know which loctite number/color?

OK, How has purchased studs?

Where?

How much?

Do I have to get a second mortgage?

6.0-928S

I have a new Raceware stud set I'll sell for a reasonable price. I installed them in the block but decided to go with stretch head bolts instead. I'll have to see if I can find all the nuts if you're interested.

Regards, Hammer

atb

I don't think its a "loctite" brand threadlocker. It is very thick and has a very distinct smell, reminds me of anti-seize.

Mrmerlin

it may be German loctite , though they do spec loctite for sealing the girdle 574?
IIRC , the studs I have removed all seemed to be filled with some sort of thread locking compound, and using heat and kroil or PB made it easy to remove the studs,
Note if a stud is singing heat it and soak it a few times as well as turn it back into its hole, they will sing then snap

Big AL in VA

IMOP MAP gas should not be used. MAP gas and acetlyn burns too hot and will melt aluminum. Use propane. Propane max heat is just barely around melting temp of Aluminum. I used propane on a stud and had no problem getting it hot enough to break the stud free.

After you get the studs out. Clean the living crap out of the holes. Use a wire brush and WD 40 and run the brush in and out of the holes until clean. You will get a lot of crap out of these stud holes. Then use a bottoming tap 12 X 1.5 tap. Have a machinist grind off the leading edge of the cutting threads on the tap. You only want to clean the threads and not cut the threads. You will need a long 1/4" extension with a 9/32 socket (i beleive) on the tap. Go slow and keep running the cleaning tap in and out until clean and bottomed out in the hole. The flutes on the tap will fill up quickly with crap until the threads and hole is clean.

Definition of crap--whatever thread sealant was used on the threads and some carbonized oil and possibly grease.

It was the most time consuming part of my project. I suggest replacing the studs with ARP studs. Run the studs in until tight. Use oil and red loctite on the threads. Use new harware nuts. Check out my thread on Rennlist discussing with pics how to salvage the thrust washers for the head nuts. So far after 6 months my heads are looking great and using no oil. Oil looks clean as new.

LT Texan

did you heat the stud and not the alum? Did you remove the stud while it was hot, or did you let it cool down? I ask because heating would seem to expand the stud, making it tighter. THX

Mrmerlin

the reason for the MAPP gas is that its hotter faster, the block is all aluminum and thus its very hard to keep areas hotsince it conducts heat so well, IMHO propane doesnt get hot enough, . You want to heat the block not the stud , use lots of PB or Kroil to soak the stud

BC

Just checking on your statement about threading the studs in tight - ARP suggests screwing them in tight then backing them off.

Anyone know the reason for conflicting info?

Thanks

Big AL in VA

I heated the aluminum

Big AL in VA

I had the same problem with this. I found info on just finger tightening and some run down tight. I ran mine down tight w/ red loctite.

My info came from one of the big three (upper midwest) via the Machine shop that does the engines for them. It was my conversation with them that made up my mind.

The same machinist told me since I used ARP studs that I could increase the final torque by 10NM. And I did.

But, honestly, I was nervous initially about which approach to take.

Big AL in VA

Your point is well taken. Propane worked for me because I had a lot of mechanic friends scaring me out of my mind about applying too much heat. But, I do see your point about the aluminum acting as a heat sink. This is true.