918-S

I'm having a block bored. I need to remove the studs. I'm too busy to get out there and experiment with this, so I thought I'd ask a couple questions and see If I can expedite the process as soon as I have time.

1) Have you ever pulled em?

2) what method did you use? (Specialty tool or double nut, did you use heat in the block?) Give it up.

3) which kind gold or old?

4) did you re-use em?

5) if you guys are not re-using them, where's the best price for replacements? (aftermarket or stealer)

bigmac

To my knowledge I am the Head Stud.

atb

LOL!

I haven't removed head studs, but I have removed the crank studs. If they are held in by the same threadlock heat definitely helps. Propane didn't do the trick, I had to get the MAP gas, with channel locks.

I know of a few motors where the crank studs were removed and reused. I guess its arguable that the crank studs don't see the same abuse as the head studs, but so far so good.

Is you have pre '89 heads, I think Carl at 928 Motorsports can set you up with studs. I don't think any of the rennlist sponsors carry studs for '89 and newer, and even the non-sponsor's batch order are few and far between.

There has been alot of discussion regarding what type of material should be used for the studs. There have been incidents reported that use of a particular kind of popular ARP head stud resulted in the stud breaking because apparently it didn't expand at the same rate as the aluminum heads.

Maybe do a search, it has been covered quite a bit, but I don't know that a definitive answer had ever been reached with regard to an off the shelf match for the later heads.

Dennis Wilson

918,

There is a specialty tool which I believe is called a stud extractor. It is a clamping type of devise that goes on a rachet and extension and works at the block surface level. Double nutting is done at the top of the stud and could twist/break the stud. I would expect the machine shop to have this tool and remove the studs as part of their service.

Extracting can bend the studs so new ones made of unobtainium should be used.

Dennis

918-S

Thanks for the reply. I stopped by the machine shop the other day to discuss the boring process. I asked them about pulling the studs. The Rube Goldberg devise the shop had worked on the top end of the stud and I was told by them that it often damages the studs.

So I'm looking for options.

Dennis Wilson

Check with your local MAC or Snap On tool guy for a stud extracting tool. It is also possible that Sears or the local auto parts store would carry them.

Dennis

LT Texan

I didn't use heat, soaked in liquid wrench, proceeded to remove head studs with a pipe wrench. got about 2/3rd's of the way home and snapped one off in the block. Mind you this was January in NY. It was about 30 degrees F.

Gory details in "old bugger coming out" thread.

If anyone has a sure fire way of doing this, I'd like to know. Don't think I'll be doing this again.

And how the hell do you heat a block? Some big *** oven! BBQ grill?

atb

I've used one of these it worked great, but I haven't been able to find one new. I borrowed one and it was a very old tool, NLA. Essentially, it was a thick metal disc about 2.5" across, with three different size holes in it. Another smaller metal disc was attached to the first one by an offset axle. The smaller disc had knurilng on its out edge. It also had a square cut out for the 3/8" drive rachet head to fit. You would put the stud through whichever of the three holes fit best and slide the tool down to the base of the stud. Put a 3/8" extension into the square hole of the smaller disc, and then turn the ratchet handle like you were undoing a bolt. This would cause the smaller disc to turn and wedge the stud pushing it against the inside of the hole that the stud was going through.The knurling would grab the stud without damaging it, and then, with effort, you could unscrew the stud. It worked great until the last time I used it, when the knurling had worn out after many many years of use, and would no longer hold the stud, and instead would just slip around the stud.

Dennis Wilson

Propane torch, but not too hot. Just enough to expand the aluminum and not the steel.

Dennis

atb

Actually, I found it worked best to put heat to the stud, the heat transfers to the threadlock and releases it. Let it all cool down, and then vice grips.

atb

You've got the magic touch Dennis. I tried propane on the block, trying to avoid the studs, and just didn't have the technique to make it work. I agree though, you don't want to cook the studs.

LT Texan

I've got new head studs and a desire to deck the block, anyone want to come by and give me a demonstration, I can supply my address, beer and steak dinner.

Otherwise, I think I cower in corner

Sorry for the self indulgent high jack

Rob Edwards

Here's a Sears stud remover, about $25 IIRC. I'd be happy to mail it to you if you want to pay posteage both ways.

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Dennis Wilson

Rob,

That's exactly the type I had until the Tulsa Memorial Day flood of 1984. Haven't needed to replace it yet. (knock on wood)

Thanks,

Dennis

Rob Edwards

I don't even remember why I bought it, some project that didn't end up requiring it, most likely. Sears still lists them:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...s&keyword=4458