S4ordie

Hi Tom, I forgot to insert the link to my #2 and #6 bearing thread for the Zyc car. I added to my post (#148) and here it is as well...

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-them-all.html

Tom. M

So..got back to the shop today and pulled the 2/6 bearings...I was concerned and when Adam showed up, he confirmed..they've got to be replaced..will do the full set...here's the pics:





and the crank...



now off to read the GB bearing thread...

Tom. M

Finally finished up on the bearings... Used the ball anvil gauge to check both the glyco's and the ones in the engine... Pics below are set up like the facing the engine from the front.. 1 passenger front..to 4 passenger rear... 5 drivers front...8 drivers rear.. (these measurements are in inches..or ten thou's)

I couldn't get consistent measurements on the bearings that came out..so I used plastigauge to check the clearance and consistently got 0.051mm..or a bit less..but it was pretty close to 0.051mm on every one, So that's how they will run ..



Passenger bank 1 bottom...(bottom bearing and then top bearing)..up to 4....



Drivers bank 5 bottom (bottom bearing then top bearing) ...up to 8..



The business side of the bearings..no copper..but some galling..seems worst is the rear set (4 and 8)



Passenger side bank...1 bottom to 4 top (bottom bearing followed by top bearing)



Drivers side bank ..5 bottom to 8 top (bottom bearing followed by top bearing)

IcemanG17

remember the glycos got TIGHTER over time.....and you want to set the rod bearing on the looser end of the spectrum.... I will only run Porsche bearings......money well spent...and the new old stock ones are BETTER....

Tom. M

Interesting..I added the measurements I got from the glyco's together to give me a bearing thickness of 0.1175...

Now doing the same with the ones I pulled from the engine gave me these:
Here's the numbers.. and the difference from the glyco's
#5 - 0.1175 / 0
#6 -0 .1176 / 0.0001
#7 - 0.11765 / 0.00015
#8 -0 .1177 / 0.0002

#1 -0 .1177 / 0.0002
#2 - 0.1175 / 0
#3 - 0.1176 / 0.0001
#4 - 0.11755 / 0.00005

So...the Porsche bearings were thicker in almost every case...??? Like I mentioned above, the plastigauge came in at 0.051mm right in the middle of the factory spec of 0.03 to 0.069mm..so I'm happy with these..

Also, keep in mind, I'm a novice using the ball anvil micrometer...took me a long long long time to get consistent measurements ..so there probably is some variation...but plastigauge is plastigauge , not too much user error there haha..

Tom. M

GB windage screen on.. Only had to "clearance" two of them as the rod nuts were just touching..a tug here..pull there..and good to go..you can see in the last pic how close..and that's just past the tightest spot ... Pan spacer and pan go on next week...and hopefully button it all up too..

Tom. M

Updating the costs..... sure to increase once it gets rolling...need a new exhaust from the headers back



Devek sway bar ($100)
Devek L2 1.75" headers plus X ($750 shipping tba)
18x11 and 18x8 Turbo Twist wheels ($400) for street driving only
fuel tank strainer ($50)
Total Track car costs as of Jan 2013...$14,046

And some more March 2013
misc oil pan bits from Rog including delrin rack bushings $185
set of bearings and rod nuts $185
Greg Brown pan spacer and windage screen $560
Total Track Car costs as of March 2013.. $14,976

Tom. M

Oil pan on... hope to get the crossmember and rack back on tomorrow....and the pics..

Old school oil pickup:



and the pan...

GlenL

Looking good.

I wonder how the spacer affects other things like my I-J windage set and the oil pick-up.

Is your pick-up extended?

IcemanG17

on my cars with the 3/8 spacer there is an "extender" for the oil pickup...that way everything stays the same spacing....the only downside is the oil dipstick is no longer correct...but that is easy to compensate for

Tom. M

Yep, Greg's kit comes with a spacer for the oil pickup at the block and the two oil pickup mounts on the cradle.. as well as the spacer and longer studs/bolts for the pan. I didn't go for the full stud kit since this doesn't use any pan gasket..I ended up using loctite 574 or something like that..the orange colored stuff...

Adam (ATB) used this on his Simard spacer setup and it didn't leak at all.

Got back to it today for a short period of time and was able to the the cross member back in.. Going to take some work to get the heat shields in there..and the clutch line will need some moving around to get the bracket to fit near the headers too...

hope to have a roller next weekend.. we'll see..

IcemanG17

you are getting there tom!!! one of these days in the future we need to get the full west coast 928 racers together!!!! Of course I vote for Thunderhill since I have my shop there plus access to another... and a mountain of parts if needed....

Tom. M

She's all buttoned up....just waiting for the lightweight starter that is currently on my GT..will bring the GT to the shop next week, swap the starter out.. get it on there and then the track car will (should) roar to life...

hopefully our resident welding expert Al Blose will be available to box in our sway bar mounts and I can put on my Devek sway bar too... .. Getting closer

We should definitely have a west coast 928 racer event...maybe we'll make you guys come up to the new track out in Shelton WA....the Ridge Motorsports park...I've heard it's a great track..

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Tom. M

Got back to it this weekend. Found out my mini-starter won't fit (ebay special). Can't change the orientation of the starter so it still hit the pan. (anyone wanna buy a mini starter ) .. Al Blose came out to the shop also to box in my sway bar mounts (and Adam's too)...He did a great job (Thanks Al.... you rock)... here are the pics:

IcemanG17

Looking good!!!! Its getting there.......we really need we a west coast 928 racer event!!!

There are a bunch of weekends at Thunderhill......but I have heard good things about the new track up your way