Euro 4.7L Engine Yankfor Head Gasket Replacement
02-07-2008, 12:31 AM
#62
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Got the heads back, they look good, not perfect...which is fine with me. In the end, they are flat with only a couple of divots in non critical areas. One valve spring broke and wore out a guide. Got new inner and outer spring with new guide. All new seals. They spent more time adding material than expected. Reground valve seats drilled out 3 fused bolts. Cost me within a few bucks of $400 for both. Thought is would be $300, but they did more work...oh well, no issues on paying someone for their time and service.
Just finishing up cleaning the necessary items for reassembly. I should have it back together before next week....in the car by Sunday if all goes well.
WAS and IS
BTW, The machine shop did a nice fix on the water bridge for me too for $25.00
WAS and IS
Just finishing up cleaning the necessary items for reassembly. I should have it back together before next week....in the car by Sunday if all goes well.
WAS and IS
BTW, The machine shop did a nice fix on the water bridge for me too for $25.00
WAS and IS
02-07-2008, 09:07 AM
#64
Greg,
From the marking and coloration it appears the head was just resurfaced rather than milled. It's hard to tell from the picture but the L shaped indicators at the head corners appear shorter than stock, so there may have been previous machining.
Dennis
From the marking and coloration it appears the head was just resurfaced rather than milled. It's hard to tell from the picture but the L shaped indicators at the head corners appear shorter than stock, so there may have been previous machining.
Dennis
02-07-2008, 02:55 PM
#65
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Just resurfaced, no real milling. He said they glass beaded quite a bit. They had to get in there and remove all the aluminum oxide and fill, fill, fill. I seriously doubt these things were previously done judging by the gasket appearance....as well as the condition of the rest of the engine. I've got a 90 day warranty. What does that mean?...well, we'll see in less than 90 days.
I was concerned about some pitting on the surface, but those fall outside of the cylinder boundaries in the water jacket. I don't think there will be any issues when it comes down to it.
I was concerned about some pitting on the surface, but those fall outside of the cylinder boundaries in the water jacket. I don't think there will be any issues when it comes down to it.
02-07-2008, 04:00 PM
#69
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Yea, well, Portland is a one horse town, so the usual pass time is counting the rain drops while they wait for business...only problem is they have to start over once they reach 10. 
02-07-2008, 04:07 PM
#70
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I think you definatly should change your head studs. I did on mine and was glad I did. Use ARP head studs and torque your heads additional 5NM over spec. You can only do this with the ARP studs.
When you remove these studs get a 12X1.5 mm thread cleaning tap. And clean the living daylights out of these threads until only clean WD40 oil comes out when backing out your cleaning tap.
Also, another good reason to replace them is the old ones have already been stretched. Replace these studs. Use high temp Loctite on the threads going into the block.
When you remove these studs get a 12X1.5 mm thread cleaning tap. And clean the living daylights out of these threads until only clean WD40 oil comes out when backing out your cleaning tap.
Also, another good reason to replace them is the old ones have already been stretched. Replace these studs. Use high temp Loctite on the threads going into the block.
02-14-2008, 11:58 PM
#71
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She's been sitting on the stand for a few days now...ready to go back in the car. The job went easy enough and I see no reason why it shouldn't fire right up. I just always get the jitters after doing anything that has to do with stopping leaks. Did I mention I HATE leaks!?!?! Anyway, not bad timing...week and a half just about in my spare time to yank it and have it ready to go back in. Saturday she gets dropped back in the bay.
I think I might have goofed when putting the distributor back in...could be 180 degrees out. I thought I marked it properly. It is possible I had the crank at 0/T and the cams were 180 out. Anyway, when I put it back in, the crank and cams were at 0/T but the distributor rotor contact point is 180 degrees from the #1 plug wire on the cap. I guess I could just pull it out and spin it a bit. Any comments?
Checked the 2 & 6 bearings just for ****s and giggles...they look worse in the pic, but barely scored for 142K miles. Also I just cleaned all the funk off the engine and parts...no interest in polishing or painting. Function over form with this car.
Here's some pics...
I think I might have goofed when putting the distributor back in...could be 180 degrees out. I thought I marked it properly. It is possible I had the crank at 0/T and the cams were 180 out. Anyway, when I put it back in, the crank and cams were at 0/T but the distributor rotor contact point is 180 degrees from the #1 plug wire on the cap. I guess I could just pull it out and spin it a bit. Any comments?
Checked the 2 & 6 bearings just for ****s and giggles...they look worse in the pic, but barely scored for 142K miles. Also I just cleaned all the funk off the engine and parts...no interest in polishing or painting. Function over form with this car.
Here's some pics...
02-15-2008, 01:03 AM
#72
Nordschleife Master
Set the engine to TDC and the cams to TDC for compression stroke to Cyl #1,
then look at the distributor. there should be a very clear notch in the distributor housing and this is what the rotor should point at. If it is out then pull it out and rotate the rotor past that mark and reinsert it should come down and be able to be pointed to this mark in the middle of the adjustment, if it is not able to be, then pop it out and try another tooth on the gear.
then look at the distributor. there should be a very clear notch in the distributor housing and this is what the rotor should point at. If it is out then pull it out and rotate the rotor past that mark and reinsert it should come down and be able to be pointed to this mark in the middle of the adjustment, if it is not able to be, then pop it out and try another tooth on the gear.
02-15-2008, 04:30 AM
#74
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Nope...cylinders were all fine, never mentioned any issues. However, there was a little scoring on the cylinder wall of #3 if I remember correctly...not sure why. Its not enough of a concern for me to do anything about it.
I'll check for the notch...I did use the John Speak green wore replace too as the original was quite brown and rigid.
I'll check for the notch...I did use the John Speak green wore replace too as the original was quite brown and rigid.
02-15-2008, 12:49 PM
#75
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Thats good. I probably was confusing your rebuild with the 3 others going on right now. 
looks good!
MK
looks good!
MK
Nope...cylinders were all fine, never mentioned any issues. However, there was a little scoring on the cylinder wall of #3 if I remember correctly...not sure why. Its not enough of a concern for me to do anything about it.
I'll check for the notch...I did use the John Speak green wore replace too as the original was quite brown and rigid.
I'll check for the notch...I did use the John Speak green wore replace too as the original was quite brown and rigid.