928ntslow

Blown head gasket, so I am pulling the engine. Should be fuin...right?

So the issue is primarily replacing the head gaskets and of course the other gaskets that will get destroyed in the process. Sounds simple enough.

A couple of questions, how much does an 82 4.7L engine weigh approx? Will a 750lb capacity 3 wheel Harbor Freight stand work well for this? What bolts should I use to attach the engine to the stand?

I know its not rocket science, but I couldn't find the answers I needed in a search. Always good to ask no matter how foolish the questions may seem.

Also, if anyone can post a link to a good comprehensive right up on head gaket replacement, I would appreciate it.

I am not looking to do an engine rebuild and or upgrades. I just want to replace the gaskets and put it back together. The engine is in a car that is much less than perfect and is just intended as a daily driving dog/beater. Eventually someday when I pull the engine again to put in my future cabriolet project, I will tear the engine down and rebuild it. Keepin' it simple here.

Sailmed

I would recommend NOT using the 3 wheel stand - even though it may hold the weight . Harbour Freights next up 4 wheeler 1000 lb is only 5 bucks more. For $39 - It's better stability - I've seen some pretty bad results from the 3 wheelers falling over on people while trying to move them.
Good luck on the head gasket

Lizard928

agreed on the 4 wheel stand,
but yes a 750lbs would hold it without issue.

BC

When the heads are on, and if some reason you need to turn it around (flip it) bring a friend. Our engines are, um... Top heavy.

Lizard928

Lol, though I agree our engines are top heavy, it shouldnt take a friend to turn it upside down

Mako 928

+1 on the 4 wheel engine stand, you would be suprised how much you move it around.Other than the WSM http:members.rennlist.com/bigdave/index.html is good esp. for setting the cams for a 32 valve.Also if you dont already have it John Kelly's timing belt manual is a great step by step.

jon928se

+2 on the 4 wheel stand.

I have what I think is the the same as the HF 4 wheel stand (bought in the UK made in China)
I nearly managed to topple over the engine and stand just turning the engine from heads up to heads down. an extra set of hands comes in helpful at this point.

AND REMEMBER TO LOOSEN THE CRANK NUT BEFORE YOU PULL THE ENGINE. ITS NOT IMPOSSIBLE ON THE STAND BUT WILL REQUIRE ABOUT 4 MATES, AT LEAST 36 BEERS, SOME 4X2'S, ROPE AND SOME PIZZA

LT Texan

Keith,

I bought a 1,250lb stand off ebay for not much money. It has 4 wheels and when I put the engine on it, I was glad it was overspec'd.

Attach the engine to the stand using the 4 holes for the clutch cover. the 2 bottom holes are open so a long nut and bolt works great (I can't remember if this came with my stand). The upper holes are threaded into the block and are a non standard thread. I had to order bolts off the internet because I could not find a local supplier.

Got those bolts at BoltDepot.com Metric hex bolts, Metric standard bolts, Steel grade 8.8 fine thread, 12mm x 1.5 x 120mm. 120mm was a bit too long, so I used lots of washers.

good luck

dr bob

Keith--

There's a good argument for overspec'ing the stand and the hoist. The V8 has a lot of overhang, and the more heavy-duty stands tend to have stronger arms to gram at the mating flange to the bellhousing. When you mount the engine in the stand, go ahead and set it low, so the crank center is below the engine stand "center pipe". It wil be easier to work on since you are really only working on the top (plus the sump gasket...), and there will be less chance of overturning.

Engine hoist capacity is rated at the innermost arm extension. Extend the arm and the weight capaicty goes down. You'll be going in over the nose of the car. Take a tape measure and see how far it is from the nose to mid motor, and make sure that your rental hoist will have enough capacity at that extension. Nobody has ever complained about their engine hoist being 'too strong', at least none that I remember. Get the balancing thing too, the one with the crank on it to adjust the ange of the engine as you lift it out. It takes the place of three other hands, and is a lot more stable. Very Handy and much safer when you have to lift some, tilt some, then dive into the footwell to free a wiring harness plug or three.

AO

I'm used Big Dave's 4-wheel stand. I wouldn't use anything less. And I needed a 4-foot cheater bar to turn it!

BC

No, I was merely suggesting that when you DO decide to flip the engine yourself, that you have a friend there to help get it off of you when it falls on you foot as you try to balance it.

FWIW , I think with this engine you need the 4 leg 2k pound folding stands that Summit sells.



Nothing less.

Prionace Glauca

Keith,

Here are a few pictures of yoke installed.






WSM suggest that a support be used once the heads are installed and engine is dressed.


The twoXfour worked for me

SD928S

Prionace Glauca,

That engine looks better than new. Wow!!

928ntslow

Points well taken. My same thoughts. Going to get a stand today and cherry picker is set up tomorrow with a leveler/balancer.

Thank you gentleman.

928ntslow

Just bought this one.2K lbs cap. Now I am heading out to the garage to get the engine ready to pull tomorrow.