The Final Word on FORD motor mounts...?
02-13-2003, 12:38 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by Thom:
[QB]Normy,
Have you seen this discussion:
steering rack replace & WYIT's
[URL=http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=004460]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Thom,
How do you find the addressee of the single discussions, like you did for the above?
[QB]Normy,
Have you seen this discussion:
steering rack replace & WYIT's
[URL=http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=004460]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Thom,
How do you find the addressee of the single discussions, like you did for the above?
02-13-2003, 01:02 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
Chris,
Good to hear. I'm really looking forward to getting my new mounts in. That plus my trans rehab, all new engine rubber, plug wires and maybe some new tires might make my 928 fell like a whole different car!
Greg
Good to hear. I'm really looking forward to getting my new mounts in. That plus my trans rehab, all new engine rubber, plug wires and maybe some new tires might make my 928 fell like a whole different car!
Greg
02-13-2003, 01:40 PM
#19
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Question to those who have installed these mounts ? Were you able to still install the round stop with the hook below the new Anchor mount ? or does it not fit ? This hook engages the hook on the upper engine bracket in such a way that should the rubber mounts break the potential engine movement is limited . The one installation I am personally aware of these "washers" were not used , just curious why .
02-13-2003, 01:53 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
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Rennlist Topic Search:
Hi Erik,
How is your shark?
To do a Rennlist topic search, and post results back into a reply:
Login to the 928 Forum
At the upper right of the screen, below post reply, click search
At search words: type in: rack
At search in: click the down arrow button, then click on: subject only
Click the: search button
Click on the topic: steering rack replace & WYIT's
With Internet Explorer as my browser, I click in the “Address” bar area toward the top of the screen to select the discussion’s URL. (I think this (URL) is what you mean by addressee, RIGHT?)
Copy the URL into your post (I use ctrl/c to copy, and ctrl/v to paste)
(This assumes that you have opened another browser window, logged into the 928 forum, clicked a topic, and hit the post reply button)
Press return to activate the URL link in the post that you are writing
Note: you can also highlight text such as the name of the topic, or most relevant text, then copy that into your post
Is this what you were asking?
Also, when I view my post, the URL link is grey. The html language: [URL] does not appear. If you see the html language on your screen, to display the topic:
Cut and paste the address: [URL=http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=004460] into the address bar of your browser.
Delete: [URL= from the front of the address
Delete: ] from the end
Hit enter, or click go
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
Hi Erik,
How is your shark?
To do a Rennlist topic search, and post results back into a reply:
Login to the 928 Forum
At the upper right of the screen, below post reply, click search
At search words: type in: rack
At search in: click the down arrow button, then click on: subject only
Click the: search button
Click on the topic: steering rack replace & WYIT's
With Internet Explorer as my browser, I click in the “Address” bar area toward the top of the screen to select the discussion’s URL. (I think this (URL) is what you mean by addressee, RIGHT?)
Copy the URL into your post (I use ctrl/c to copy, and ctrl/v to paste)
(This assumes that you have opened another browser window, logged into the 928 forum, clicked a topic, and hit the post reply button)
Press return to activate the URL link in the post that you are writing
Note: you can also highlight text such as the name of the topic, or most relevant text, then copy that into your post
Is this what you were asking?
Also, when I view my post, the URL link is grey. The html language: [URL] does not appear. If you see the html language on your screen, to display the topic:
Cut and paste the address: [URL=http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=004460] into the address bar of your browser.
Delete: [URL= from the front of the address
Delete: ] from the end
Hit enter, or click go
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
02-13-2003, 02:17 PM
#21
Instructor
Jim,
Yes, I was able to install the hook you mentioned. I cannot say why the installation you mentioned neglected to install the "hook". I actually installed one anchor mount and one NAPA mount (only one was available at Autozone and only one at NAPA). The NAPA mount took some grinding on the little stub to make it work, but the installation is still as it should be, and has been working fine.
For the critics out there, I went with the Ford mount for a couple of reasons. First, cost. $50 each vs. minimum $175 each for O.E. I had been unemployed for a while and started a new job away from home. The 928 was my daily driver and I needed the job done affordably and only once, which brings me to my second point, reliability. At the time I was doing my mounts, there was much discussion/complaints on this list about newly installed O.E. mounts leaking (or going bad in some way) and having to have them replaced right away, repeating a time-intensive job. I generally believe in going with O.E. parts, but at the time, for me, it made sense to try the Ford mounts and thus far has not proven to be a disappointment.
Yes, I was able to install the hook you mentioned. I cannot say why the installation you mentioned neglected to install the "hook". I actually installed one anchor mount and one NAPA mount (only one was available at Autozone and only one at NAPA). The NAPA mount took some grinding on the little stub to make it work, but the installation is still as it should be, and has been working fine.
For the critics out there, I went with the Ford mount for a couple of reasons. First, cost. $50 each vs. minimum $175 each for O.E. I had been unemployed for a while and started a new job away from home. The 928 was my daily driver and I needed the job done affordably and only once, which brings me to my second point, reliability. At the time I was doing my mounts, there was much discussion/complaints on this list about newly installed O.E. mounts leaking (or going bad in some way) and having to have them replaced right away, repeating a time-intensive job. I generally believe in going with O.E. parts, but at the time, for me, it made sense to try the Ford mounts and thus far has not proven to be a disappointment.
02-13-2003, 02:20 PM
#22
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Jim
I have no idea why the hooks were not installed either, the Ford mounts fit fine with the addition of a washer to raise the mount the extra 1.5mm or so to keep the same as the OEM.
The pin in the bottom is of lesser diameter than the OEM but locates in the hole in the x-member fine.
Chris
I have no idea why the hooks were not installed either, the Ford mounts fit fine with the addition of a washer to raise the mount the extra 1.5mm or so to keep the same as the OEM.
The pin in the bottom is of lesser diameter than the OEM but locates in the hole in the x-member fine.
Chris
02-13-2003, 02:58 PM
#24
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You mean the pan gasket with impregnated rubber ?
Working fine so far, hasn't had much testing as car still up on stands waiting repair of the lower a-ram bushings.
Gasket had much more spring to it than the cork gasket, only concern is that the guy cuts them by hand so some no doubt fit better than others. On the fron edge it didn't cover the whole flange, maybe 75% of it.
Chris
Working fine so far, hasn't had much testing as car still up on stands waiting repair of the lower a-ram bushings.
Gasket had much more spring to it than the cork gasket, only concern is that the guy cuts them by hand so some no doubt fit better than others. On the fron edge it didn't cover the whole flange, maybe 75% of it.
Chris
02-13-2003, 04:05 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
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Hi Thom,
My shark is extremely good now, almost driving like a new car.
Thank you for your excellent explanation, that's exactly what I was asking for
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
My shark is extremely good now, almost driving like a new car.
Thank you for your excellent explanation, that's exactly what I was asking for
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
02-14-2003, 05:03 AM
#26
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Well...after some soul searching and personal debate, I've decided to go with the Porsche mounts afterall. I guess I was just worried about getting all up under there with the car pulled apart and then finding that what I had did not fit properly.
I bought a rebuilt steering rack as well; incidently, the rack was cheaper than the motor mounts! Oh well-
AS to the pan gasket and bolts...is there a torque specification for these, and since my pan doesn't leak [one of the few that doesn't apparently], is it a good idea to mess with it at all?
Normy!
'85 S2 5 Speed
I bought a rebuilt steering rack as well; incidently, the rack was cheaper than the motor mounts! Oh well-
AS to the pan gasket and bolts...is there a torque specification for these, and since my pan doesn't leak [one of the few that doesn't apparently], is it a good idea to mess with it at all?
Normy!
'85 S2 5 Speed
02-14-2003, 05:58 PM
#27
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The 16V mounts are considerably different from the 32s, also cheaper for the OEMs. The older ones have two hunks of rubber supporting the housing arms. I'm in process of changing these right now. I could easily stick my index finger between the hooks with the old ones in the car, surprisingly though, unloaded and side by side the new ones are only about 4mm taller. We'll see what they look and feel like once the job is finished. I had a mild high speed (85-90) vibration on my 82US auto that I don't think was wheels or tires, I'm hoping this will be the cure.
RAS
RAS
02-15-2003, 04:52 PM
#29
I looked into the solid versions, but I Think the engine might then still need the shocks that are on the early 928s. I used the fluid filled ones, therefore, and payed 28 dollars each for them - <a href="http://www.corteco-usa.com" target="_blank">www.corteco-usa.com</a> is the place I looked, as these guys have the solid mounts.
I updated my cross member and hats JUST so I could use these mounts, and in the future. I STILL saved hundreds, but I am not sure if there is any more smoothness yet, as I have only driven the car to the mechanics to get an exhaust put on, and it was vibrating from the open headers.
I updated my cross member and hats JUST so I could use these mounts, and in the future. I STILL saved hundreds, but I am not sure if there is any more smoothness yet, as I have only driven the car to the mechanics to get an exhaust put on, and it was vibrating from the open headers.
02-15-2003, 08:40 PM
#30
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Donald,
I have used the liquid filled Anchor mounts on mine.
I believe they they are the nearest to Porsche spec on the S4. I think the Anchor solids need packing up to achieve the correct height.
I have used the liquid filled Anchor mounts on mine.
I believe they they are the nearest to Porsche spec on the S4. I think the Anchor solids need packing up to achieve the correct height.