Andrew, don't listen to those other guys, here's the best advice by far:

STOOPID!

...Note to self: if I'd just listen to my own advice, I'd be a LOT better off!

You're not running major-boost, so you should be fine as-is, ...ya twin-screw ****!

 

K.I.S.S. => Keep it simple STOOOPID!

That's what I want to do. I think at this point I probably should take a look at the rings and crank bearings. The car does have 136k miles, so there's got to be some wear, best to find out now rather than in 18 months and do it all again.

As for dishing the pistons... we'll see what the mad scientist says, but assuming we just use the thicker HG to make up for loss from decking - that's probably how I'll approach it. Stroker crank... no!

As for methanol injection, not really interested. As long as my compression doesn't go too high, I should be able to run my 8.Xpsi safely.

And BTW, I only had leakage into one cylinder. See post #2 where I'm holding the passenger head. You can see Cyl #7 has brown exhaust valves. All the others are grey. My AFR has always been pretty good, but if this is an indication of some other issue, I'm all ears.

 

CR ratio will not be affected that much, I remember calculating mine before/after, it changed mine by something like 0.1; from 9.245 to 9.3xx. The specs for resurfacing the heads in the WSM's are designed to keep CR within a real tight range.

As far as dishing pistons go, anything is possible with $$$$... I debated for better part of a year if I should change things on my engine, but finally decided to just keep it simple and make it work like it was designed to. IMHO, your motor ran fine before, keep it like that. Just reassemble everything as close to factory tolerances as you can, you'll be fine.

 

IMHO just keep it very simple. Only surface the block if it needs it.

Then find yourself another engine to 'play' with. Take that one to town, then when #1 goes you will have some empirical data to see how long it will really lasts and also have a long weekend to do the replacement.

my 2.2cents (Canadian)

 

Its been a while and i honselty cant recall the price but it was actaully pretty cheap. I may have posted the price in a thread somewhere? Cool thing is...those dimensions are stored on a disc. Zero out the lathe and push a button and it replicated.....16 times. The tops have since been ceramic coated.

 

I was using the prices you mentioned to me, IIRC - it was like 70 or more a piston?

 

So Tony... how many engines are you planning on building?

 

Is the PC-9 "safe" with alusil?

 

As I mentioned, it is even holding up with nothing else on the Forged Aluminum piston in a Lindsay racing 951. 16,000 miles and no issues so far.

 

Here's a question that you really should ask yourself: Are you capable to do all this and everything else that has been suggested here, with enough confidence that at the end, your work will be flawless? Or flawless enough to have a good reliable long lasting engine? Just playing devil's advocate here, nothing more.

 

I wasn't talking about a little nozzel pea-shooting methanol into the intake, which does work, - I was talking about running ethanol as the main fuel.

 

I'm pretty confident. I've got the head work sourced, so it's really down to do I separate the block and do the crank bearings. I know my limitations, and this is nearing those limits. I do have a couple of resource I can relay on should I get into trouble, but this isn't rocket science, and I do consider myself a pretty smart guy, so I think with a little guidance and some reading I can figure it out.

But it's always good to have someone give you a dose of reality now and then.

 

There's no need; your crank bearings will be fine.

 

I think I should at least check crank end-play which should be super easy to do.

 

Well today I decided I had better chick the rings on #7 (the one I had the issue) and crank end play. Rings are good, crank end play is perfect!

#7 piston 360*








That's 0.007" which is about 0.18mm