ViribusUnits

Question.

What kind of intake would you use a system like the Megasquirt?

Also, are there any modifications possible to turn a Megasquirt system into a sequencial system?

Thanks.

KBlair

I believe the mother of all threads is <a href="http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=17833&sessionID={8D325F3D-9388-48F3-9B78-ACA387E900ED}&pageNo=24&num=30" target="_blank"> here</a>. 714 posts spanning almost 3 years. The subject? Duct tape!

Seriously, It could get pretty involved. Maybe an informal website or it's own?

KBlair

Correct me if I'm wrong, and I'm just starting to think seriously on this, but on the 83 the only thing you would HAVE to do is stick the barn door open (ie physically open, no connection to the system). The MegaSquirt uses a MAP sensor and a manifold vacuum line (placed somewhere after the air filter). Run this line from the intake to the ECU, it replaces the function of the "barn door" AFM.

Incendier

VU - the system is designed to use an internal MAP sensor plumbed from a manifold vacuum line. This should allow the use of a straight-pipe intake in place of the AFM (with the addition of an air temp sensor).

Apparently, it can be modified to be sequential but per the inventors "you're on your own".

I'll host a posting of this discussion on my Rennlist site if you like; I'll cut & paste from e-mail - there will be no writing of script for this

Kevin, one of the big plusses for me is getting the cork out of the bottle, as it were, by removing the AFM. I'd be inclined to just have a short piece machined.

KBlair

Sequential would be interesting, considering (according to Wally) not even the GTS has it.

While we're at it, why don't we do a new airbox that doesn't leak large objects behind the filter!

PeteS

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by KBlair:
<strong>Sequential would be interesting, considering (according to Wally) not even the GTS has it.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Any particular reason for the interest in sequential? From what I've read, the main reasons for sequential systems becoming more common is because of emissions, and most or many of them go to batch at higher RPM anyway.

John Struthers

FWIW
Read up on the 6 or 7 series MSD ignitions -$200. to top of line 7 series at $500. several models in between-, I believe you can auto-retard 15 to 20 degrees for Start and Idle circut. Some of the ignitions have built in retard modules and or rev. limiter modules. The former might be handy for you 'boost *****'. They also have a slaved Boost Master - $180. - $340...- that adjusts retard from 1 to 3 degrees per pound of boost. Also comes with a system sensitivity adjustment that you mount in the cab.
MSD also sells a series of timing computers -$110. -$180.00, have to piggyback to an MSD ignition and/or controller - some are programable- for crank trigger start/idle circut/mapping, rpm to total advance, and speed of timing advance. They also sell .
The Multi-function controller -about $380.00- piggybacks to a 6, 7, 10 series MSD ignition , comes with PC software Win 95, 98,, NT.
Lets you program/map timing of every cylinder, map a complete timing curve, set rev limits, shift points, start retard....
I didn't include the Digital 7 series or the 10 series as they seem (to me) to be for serious racing efforts.
Obviously, there are different strokes for different folks and there is the question of it's ability to stand alone or if need be piggyback to the later model computers.
Check em' out. If nothing else you might get a clue to what you are gonna need. All of their ignitions -sorry Porsche fans- offer significantly improved spark and duration with the
Blaster Coils.
Keep brainstorming.

T_MaX

I vote you guys keep this one on the board. I think we could all learn something from a good discussion on this subject.

Please correct me if I am wrong, but I think both the L and the LH were batch injection.

James, here is a tid-bit from their site about the input sig:

"Input triggering for injection events is derived from an existing ignition system - either by connection to a conventional Kettering ignition coil (- terminal) or by using the TACH signal available from virtually any OEM or aftermarket ignition system."

I have read the doc's on the "MegaSquirt" project (What a name ) looks like a lot of effort has been put into this project. If I had the time to build it (remember it's a DIY kit), I'd be a player.

Has anyone seen or done the DIY-WB that the MegaSquirt page refers to <a href="http://www.diy-wb.com/" target="_blank">DIY-WB</a> ?

Or have you guys seen the <a href="http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm" target="_blank">Tech-Edge</a> wideband tool?

BC

It looks so great, but I am concerned about HOW much DIY is involved. In one paragraph, they say that you are "soldering" it together.....

WHat are you soldering? I am not SUPER good at soldering, but I have been known to do this the correct way.

The reason I ask about the ignition is because of my current problem, which I believe to be ignition related. It could also be grounding related, which I am attempting to fix right now. It keep on blowing up ignition boxes on the 81.

KBlair

It's fully DIY, you put everything together, solder every component to the board. I think you can buy the PCB already etched, but if not you'd have to do that as well.

Jim Nowak

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva"> The former might be handy for you 'boost *****'. They also have a slaved Boost Master - $180. - $340...- that adjusts retard from 1 to 3 degrees per pound of boost. Also comes with a system sensitivity adjustment that you mount in the cab.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">You mean this one:
<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/SECengine4_WEB.jpg" alt=" - " />

Boost ****!

John Struthers

Jim,
Is that a six series? Where did you splice in the crank trigger, and where did you mount the handy boost control ****?
Tell all... You HP harlot.
John S. and Pattycakes

Incendier

This project has extreme FUBAR potential, so I'll propose to KBlair and the other interested parties that we first determine some really boring stuff, like...

Does the GM coolant temp sensor fit the current housing? I'm betting no; if not, what calibrations are required to make the Bosch work.

What impedence injector is the power board designed to drive? We've got the low ohm ones...

Can we map (do we want to) the L-Jet "split" injection sequence, and, if not, will the engine run well on a single shot?

Does the cold start system operate as a stand-alone? I'm working on this, but anyone with intimate knowledge, feel free to pipe up

Since my Shark is my driver, I don't really want to kneecap it until I'm sure the system is feasible...but it sure will be fun to try to get it there.

BC

James - (Good name by the way - James Michael Campion born 09/25/02) -

I do believe that the cold start system, at least on the USA models, is simply A coolant controlled AUX air system. I could be wrong, but would think that its controlled by the L-Jet. Is that your question?

Incendier

Alrighty, here's my take on the cold start situation. Two pieces - the aux air valve and the cold start injector.

Cold start injector powered from the starter relay. Power flows when the thermo time switch grounds the circuit and the injector flows until power is cut to the starter (i.e. switch rotated to the run position). No apparent input from the L-Jet. (Start relay #87-O5 on panel-#14 of the 14-pin connector up front-terminal W of the thermo time switch-to valve)

Aux air valve: Powered from the fuel pump relay; action controlled by internal bimetallic element that will allow current flow until temp is reached, when valve closes. Also, apparently stand-alone with the exception of the fuel pump relay. (FP relay #87-panel Q1-air valve)

The rest is handled by L-Jet adjusting injector pulse width to enrich the mixture.

So, gurus, am I missing anything here?

If nothing else, this mental exercise will be good for my understanding of the car...and would whomever has the nice Shark sitting outside, covered in snow, on St. Charles Road in Lombard, IL PLEASE put it inside!?! You're killing me!