Rear Shock Replacement Question
#1
Rear Shock Replacement Question
I have searched the archives and read as much as I can find about the procedure. I have also read the procedure post by Gary Knox and Earl Gillstrom. In the archives, it indicates that a spring compressor is needed but in the post by Gary Knox and Earl Gillstrom, ther is no mention of a Spring Compressor required. There write up is for 87-95 so there may be a difference. Can anyone please verify if a Spring compressor is needed for the job or not.
Thanks.
Warren
Thanks.
Warren
#3
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
A spring compressor is needed. I've found some types of aftermarket FRONT springs are so short, a compressor isn't needed to install them. Not true for the rear, and a compressor would be needed to remove the stock springs regardless.
#5
Team Owner
when you remove the rear shocks also remove the lower rear pin (The long bolt the lower shock is mounted to), its easiest to pull it out the rear, after disconnecting the lower anti sway bar bolts , once the pin is out you can clean it, and roll it on a smooth surface to make shure it is still straight if its bent you will need a replacement a used one will work fine, you can either use grease or antiseiz compound when its time to reinstall the lower pin also note how the beveled washers fall out to hold them in place you can use very sticky grease(IE thickgrease)
#6
Rennlist Member
Also note that the top mount is ASYMMETRIC - it will only fit in ONE position of the 3 you might think would work....BTDT. And be careful with the compressor - always try to work such that if one lets go, nobody and nothing valuable is in the line of fire!
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
#7
Three Wheelin'
Whall,
It's probably worthwhile considering taking the old coilover assembly (removed from the car) and the new shocks to a shop to have them do the spring swap. It'll save you a lot of monkeying around for what is relatively few dollars (e.g. $25 ea.). They have specialized pneumatic tools that make quick work of removing the spring and pressing the old adjuster collars onto the new shock bodies.
It's probably worthwhile considering taking the old coilover assembly (removed from the car) and the new shocks to a shop to have them do the spring swap. It'll save you a lot of monkeying around for what is relatively few dollars (e.g. $25 ea.). They have specialized pneumatic tools that make quick work of removing the spring and pressing the old adjuster collars onto the new shock bodies.
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#8
Thanks for the advice. I have had the bottom bolts apart to replace rear wheel bearings so I expect that part of the job should go easy.
Chaadster, I will heed your advice - Thanks.
Any comments on how much I will notice a difference re the new shocks.
Warren
Chaadster, I will heed your advice - Thanks.
Any comments on how much I will notice a difference re the new shocks.
Warren
#9
Team Owner
well it depends on how old/worn the original shocks were, if the back bounced like a kid on a trampoline then it will be like driving a new car
#10
Rennlist Member
The bottom mount is assymetric too ...
I recently installed Konis on a friends car - and will again issue the caution about DIY spring compressors: if using the type that is a pair of threaded rods with cast hooks .... do yourself a big favour and buy two sets!
I always use three compressors per spring, for a variety of safety and convenience issues.
The rear threaded adjusters have been fused to the body of practically every Boge I've touched. Rather than beat on it and destroy the threads, I hacksaw the shock off 1/4" proud of the adjuster, and saw cut the steel cylinder lengthwise to twist it free of the aluminium sleeve ...
I recently installed Konis on a friends car - and will again issue the caution about DIY spring compressors: if using the type that is a pair of threaded rods with cast hooks .... do yourself a big favour and buy two sets!
I always use three compressors per spring, for a variety of safety and convenience issues.
The rear threaded adjusters have been fused to the body of practically every Boge I've touched. Rather than beat on it and destroy the threads, I hacksaw the shock off 1/4" proud of the adjuster, and saw cut the steel cylinder lengthwise to twist it free of the aluminium sleeve ...
#11
Three Wheelin'
Elaborating on Garth's troubles with the threaded adjusters, I was able to utilize a hydraulic press on the shock and push it out of the threaded adjuster. As I said, this was at a professional shop, so it was pretty easy.
In response to Whall's question about ride difference, it will be obviously better, but, what I've discovered, is that it will make the fronts (which are probably of the same vintage, if not as worn) feel like crap in comparison to the new rears! So, prepare to be have ecstatic, half depressed!!
I can't wait to do my fronts.
In response to Whall's question about ride difference, it will be obviously better, but, what I've discovered, is that it will make the fronts (which are probably of the same vintage, if not as worn) feel like crap in comparison to the new rears! So, prepare to be have ecstatic, half depressed!!
I can't wait to do my fronts.
#12
Rennlist Member
My Bilstein threaded adjuster had to be cut off the rears when I did them.
Yes the bottom is asymmetric, but its a LOT more obvious than the top!
jp 83 Euro S AT M474
Yes the bottom is asymmetric, but its a LOT more obvious than the top!
jp 83 Euro S AT M474
#14
Thanks for all of the advice - borrowed compressors from Auto Value and completed the job last night. It seems a little stiffer in the rear but not a major difference. The shocks were oil soaked so I guess it was just a matter of time til they got noticeably bad.
BTW - the job took 4 hours 2.5 for the first side and 1.5 for the second including cleaning all parts.
BTW - the job took 4 hours 2.5 for the first side and 1.5 for the second including cleaning all parts.