Scat Stroker Crank Balancing Act (6 cwt)
#31
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Stan, Titanium rods would probably be the biggest single weight loss item at about 200g(?) ea, that would be a sweet way to address your dillema
Pistons or lighter steel rods would possibly be next at about 100g(?) savings ea. If you could swap someone for a heavier crank and use your existing stuff that would certainly be the easiest and cheapest solution although the opportunity of needing titanium rods is so tempting. If I were in your shoes I can see telling my wife, 'Honey, you won't believe this, I have no choice but to buy a set of titanium rods, sigh'.
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#32
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This is Kolbenschmidt 968 piston. Being narrow on sides allows it to clear crank much better than any other piston design used in Porsche Alusil engines.
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#33
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Carrillo makes an A-beam connecting rod that is very lightweight....we've been using them for a few years now. They are incredibly tough! The material is of very high quality...which is what you would expect from Carrillo. Grab ahold of a Carrillo rod and try and do some machining on it....you will instantly understand what I'm talking about. We have had problems with the Oliver rods getting "out of round" very quickly....might be another one of those famous "Southern California" only problems....
#34
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Originally Posted by Mike Simard
Stan, Titanium rods would probably be the biggest single weight loss item at about 200g(?) ea, that would be a sweet way to address your dillema ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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I really have become attached to the idea of the lighter crank in the race motor
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#35
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Stan,
Here's a pic from a prior post. You can see the 968 KB in the lower left, and the full skirt Mahles to the right.
The middle piston is labeled "968 Mahle" because that is the motor that it came out of. Apparently, it's not the piston that came with the motor from the factory.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/piston_weights_copy1.jpg)
This is true. The Oliver rods require no clearancing of the block and have no clearance issues. It's the crank counterweight contacting the piston skirt, the rod stays out of the way.
Here's a pic from a prior post. You can see the 968 KB in the lower left, and the full skirt Mahles to the right.
The middle piston is labeled "968 Mahle" because that is the motor that it came out of. Apparently, it's not the piston that came with the motor from the factory.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/piston_weights_copy1.jpg)
I was also told the Oliver rods didn't have this contact issue.
#36
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Thanks Adam,
Based on weight they should be the 968 Mahle, but I will check them when I see them. I will check them when I get them back.
The second set, in hand, appear to be the 968 KS model.
Based on weight they should be the 968 Mahle, but I will check them when I see them. I will check them when I get them back.
The second set, in hand, appear to be the 968 KS model.
#38
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Originally Posted by marc@DEVEK
Great pics...thanks!!
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#39
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Apparently, it's not the piston that came with the motor from the factory.
#40
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I did mine w/the carrillo a series and je pistions w/a 6 cw moldex and it took very little to balance it all... also lost 3500g off a stock motor's rods and piston combo. another reason I went w/JE and nicom stuff... mixing an matching can be a mess.
pauter makes a very nice rod to nearly any spec
I almost used them but got my a series on sale for under 1100 delivered. not sure I 'd try to grind on them though. could mess up the temper and you don't want pissed off rods running around in there
I'd just sell the slugs and get some aftermarket stuff. prolly come out money ahead given the mahles are more $$$ anyway. je has my specs on file, or you can ping me for it or they can make whatever you want
pauter makes a very nice rod to nearly any spec
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I'd just sell the slugs and get some aftermarket stuff. prolly come out money ahead given the mahles are more $$$ anyway. je has my specs on file, or you can ping me for it or they can make whatever you want
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#41
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Hi Rob,
I appreciate the thoughts, but on the road course track only the stock block material and pistons is proven with many races and years of use.
I agree mixing and matching is a hassle. In theory I save money when doing so in exchange for my time. Time is easier for me to come by plus I learn more which could be critical during an issue at the track.
If needed I will have rods and pins made to work with this crank and pistons and have or find a crank to work with these rods. 6cwt for track, 8cwt for street
I appreciate the thoughts, but on the road course track only the stock block material and pistons is proven with many races and years of use.
I agree mixing and matching is a hassle. In theory I save money when doing so in exchange for my time. Time is easier for me to come by plus I learn more which could be critical during an issue at the track.
If needed I will have rods and pins made to work with this crank and pistons and have or find a crank to work with these rods. 6cwt for track, 8cwt for street
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#42
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sounds like a plan
aren't joe fan's and most nascar motors nicom w/forged slugs? just askin ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
sorry for the OT - but hey, ck out the new panorama - the new 3.8L 997 w/over 505ftlbs tq and 460+HP - off the showroom floor in a shiney new street legal ragtop chassis doing 3.6sec 0-60 and 197mph w/ A/C and a stereo too!! - whoo hoo!! all this stuff starts to look like slo mo in comparison pretty quick, eh? just need $136k to "blow" and it even comes w/a warrenty! I wonder what kind of slugs it has?? course, nuts like us would prolly take it apart, just to see if we could make it go faster, hahaha except for brendan, who'd just take it apart, hahahha
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me go work now...
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sorry for the OT - but hey, ck out the new panorama - the new 3.8L 997 w/over 505ftlbs tq and 460+HP - off the showroom floor in a shiney new street legal ragtop chassis doing 3.6sec 0-60 and 197mph w/ A/C and a stereo too!! - whoo hoo!! all this stuff starts to look like slo mo in comparison pretty quick, eh? just need $136k to "blow" and it even comes w/a warrenty! I wonder what kind of slugs it has?? course, nuts like us would prolly take it apart, just to see if we could make it go faster, hahaha except for brendan, who'd just take it apart, hahahha
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me go work now...
#43
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Originally Posted by 928SS
just need $136k to "blow" and it even comes w/a warrenty! I wonder what kind of slugs it has?? course, nuts like us would prolly take it apart, just to see if we could make it go faster, hahaha except for brendan, who'd just take it apart, hahahha
Usually, a car with a warranty is the thing that keeps me from taking it apart. I haven't touched my wife's Acura. Of course, I have looked on ebay for spare motors to take apart just to see if I could put a "sleeper" together for her. Its front wheel drive, but its the same motor that was in the NSX (and not much more HP!) and they make SCs and Turbos for those cars, so...
See? Gotta stick with the 928s
#44
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Hey Rob do you know what you 6 cwt crank weighed? Joe from Moldex told me he would have just used a 6 cwt crank himself, he thought what I did was overkill with the 8 cwt crank, I haven't weighed mine but he told me it was 62 lbs, he also said it didn't require any heavy metal which was a break. Just wondering what I could have saved if mine was 6 cwt. Also he was very suprised when I mentioned this thread to him, he said he had never seen a crank that couldn't be balanced.
Greg
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Greg
Greg
#45
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less than the 8cw?? sorry, been a while...ask whitie - he's the boss and grand crank wizard of moldex.. think all I'd have is a shipping wt laying around. my 3500g was just savings on the rods and pistons vs stock. does rev ok for a slushbox car though.
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