Guys, I ran into an issue this weekend while trying to dial in the timing - .

When I started out, everything seemed fine. All the green indcator/diagnostic lights (e.g. front knock, rear knock, hall, etc) were green and nothing was knocking. Then the more I drove it, the more erratic it became. I could see it registering knock but then it would just go crazy. I would see the random diagnostic "lights" flicker red (including coolant temp sensor ) and the knock counter would go crazy. I would reset it and it would do it again.

I tried re-boting and re-starting the car. No dfference. I also made sure the box was well gounded, bt did not seem to help either.

One thing I noticed was that when I reset it, the knock counter would immediately flip to 256. Then up to 712. It did this several times, and would continue to jump in intervals of a couple hundred.

I tried reseating the connector and double checked the connections. Everything seems fiine. I'm wondering if there is something that I may be overlooking. I might be able to borrow an 87 EZK. I think this should work (to rule out a faulty EZK), but can anyone confirm?

Sounds like a poor connection somewhere. Are all the pins on the diagnostic connector mating properly?

Is the programmed target A/F ratio for closed-loop operation ACTUALLY stoich? or is it a little one way or the other of stoich?

I've always thought closed loop ran 0.1, or 0.2 AFR richer than stoic. Could have been the narrow band output calibration of my WB sensor though. Closed loop mixture is always changing so it's hard to tell.

I'm trying to set the idle mixture on an open-loop EFI system on my motorcycle and looking for a A/F target. I can get quite a range on either side of stoich before seeing an idle speed change. Idle mixture is set with an air-bleed screw.

Hello Andrew
The problem could be electrical noise pickup. Keep the ribbon cable well away from all other leads if possible.

Keep the various leads clear of the unfolded EZK circuit boards as much as possible.

Thanks John. I'll try repositioning the EZK to ensure it's well away of other items. I think, right now, it's resting on top of my Innovate AuxBox.

Louie- That's what I thought, but I disconnected and reconnect the EZK, but maybe I need to disconnect and reconnect everything that I touched. Will report back when it stops raining and I have time to make a few runs.

Andrew,

Weren't you getting screwy readings on your boost gauge as well when you revved it up? I think you've got some kind of interference or electrical noise in your system somewhere.

Maybe your flux capacitor isn't shielded properly?

Mike-
Yes... You are exactly correct. Just not sure if they are related. Looks like I've got some experimenting to do.

OK Andrew, I doubt the problem is your EZK.

I was out in my own car yesterday and Saturday, testing the EZ-F SharkTuner. All working fine !

It seems that the Euro 16v doesn't have as much to come from EZ-F tuning as the US 85/86 32v.

I also noticed that the intake air temperature as measured by the Temp 1 probe in the airfilter box sat at 40C , although out ambient yesterday ws only 20deg C. After a few timed runs it had climbed to 53deg C.

I calculated 45deg C would loose me about 8% on power.....

Thanks John. I'll re-try. It rained all day yesterday, will rain all day today and looks like rain tomorrow as well, so no testing for a few days.

Andrew,

How about wire routing? Is anything run along where it might be picking up ignition inductance? I don't know anything about the ST, but I know from my experience with wiring that wire runs that look nice (ie all bundled up nicely and running in parallel) are sometimes not so good for the actual purpose if they need to carry data.

The only think that I can think of is the wire I ran for the injector duty readings which IIRC comes off the EZ-K. I'll try disconnecting. I'm also going to try dosconnecting my Innovate AuxBox just to see if that makes a difference. I'll report back when I get a chance to make a run or two.

yep. same thing on 2 other cars was observed also. gotta keep stuff isolated as much as possible. I noticed that closing up the EZK unit seemed to help too.

How do you close it up? I left it "filleted". Obviously, the ribbon cable needs to exit, but can you stick it all back in the case?