Look what I found in my oil pan...
#16
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
How far down do you plan on tearing apart this motor?
#17
Administrator - "Tyson"
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When the tensioner failed on my 944S they found bits everywhere, even lodged in my oil cooler.
I would pull the oil cooler, pump, releif valve, pressure sender etc... make sure all of the oil passagway are free and clear. Carefully inspect the oil pump for any damage.
Since pulling the other head the cams will be removed, pull the lifters and make sure everything is nice and clean.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/285892-has-anyone-seen-an-oil-pump-do-this-seized-pump-internally-broke-apart.html
I would pull the oil cooler, pump, releif valve, pressure sender etc... make sure all of the oil passagway are free and clear. Carefully inspect the oil pump for any damage.
Since pulling the other head the cams will be removed, pull the lifters and make sure everything is nice and clean.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/285892-has-anyone-seen-an-oil-pump-do-this-seized-pump-internally-broke-apart.html
#18
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Ouch Dave. Have you checked the oil outlet path from the oil filter for crud? If it's not squeaky clean(no "sand") then you might want to reconsider how far apart you take it...
#19
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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Originally Posted by SharkSkin
Ouch Dave. Have you checked the oil outlet path from the oil filter for crud? If it's not squeaky clean(no "sand") then you might want to reconsider how far apart you take it...
I'm going to pull off the oil pump and flush it out along with the cooler and cooler lines. The heads will be flushed and cleaned, too. I'll be able to visually inspect the pistons. Are you saying I should separate the block? Why?
#20
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What I mean is that some oil filters have a bypass that opens if they get too clogged(or if defective) -- I'm not sure if this is true of our Mahle filters, but I'm suggesting this "just in case". The filter should have caught any of the metal bits before allowing them to be pumped around the engine, but I'm suggesting that you check the oil galley on the outlet side of the filter to be sure it's clean(free of metal debris). IIRC there may be pressure bypass in the block too -- might want to check that as well.
#21
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Pop a few rod caps off and have a look at your bearings. If any swarf got past the filter, it will show up as gouges in the bearings... also heve close look at the cylinder walls, if any bits got between the piston and wall, there will be gouges there as well..
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
#22
Can I make a request.... ?
Hacker.. Get a New Avatar!! That movie was great... The scene was really funny...
But every time I think about Meatloaf's Man ***** it makes me want to gag!
Hacker.. Get a New Avatar!! That movie was great... The scene was really funny...
But every time I think about Meatloaf's Man ***** it makes me want to gag!
#23
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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No new pictures tonight, but I've located some of the pieces I was looking for. After removing the cams and lifters, I can see that there are at least 2 bolts and the missing tensioner oil tube stuck in the oil return passage right below where the tensioner was mounted.
The cams are missing 3 full teeth. The remaining teeth have been ground down by about 20-30%. The lobes are still smooth. All of the lifters are fine, with no scratches.
Next step is to pull the head off and peek at the pistons and cylinder walls.
The cams are missing 3 full teeth. The remaining teeth have been ground down by about 20-30%. The lobes are still smooth. All of the lifters are fine, with no scratches.
Next step is to pull the head off and peek at the pistons and cylinder walls.
#25
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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Originally Posted by heinrich
damn luck Dave sorry!
#28
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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Originally Posted by G Man
Dave. Is this the same engine you had the timing belt failure on? I hope you get it going soon.