Vilhuer

I have taken out few and never have had any difficulties with them.

72Audi

I personally feel that unless something has been previously buggered by improper handling / installation (as far as the shift rods go) these should come out and install easily.
Let ya know when I put'er back together....
BToski

72Audi

Trying to follow the factory manaul is rather perplexing....

There are, it appears, at least three variants (updates) of the manual transaxle.

The "additional pages or inserts" (for later year variations) were simply added to the rear section of my volume II (Transmission). Each section is supposed to be complete in itself but sometimes it helps to refer to other sections (earlier sections in my case)

For example I have completed shift rod removals mentioned at page 34-14 step 4 in the first section.
*** Make sure shift rods are in a position such that when you drive the roll pin down.... it has room to come all the way out. If you knock it down into a fork arm underneath .... good luck !

Step 4 in section two (for 85-on transaxles) talks about pulling out a clamp (pg 34-209) for the reverse gear. This does not exist on the 88 transaxle at all.

Shift rod removal is step 3 on page 34-213g in the third section that covers 87-on transaxles).

I found the following helped me keep it all straight.

At the end of section 34-81 (controls / shifting), I used yellow post its to make index tabs for the pages.

34-9 thru-34-19 is 77-84 trans. disassembly / assembly
34-9 thru-34-19 is 85-86 trans disassembly / assembly
34-9 thru-34-19 is 87-on trans disassembly / assembly

34-215 thru 34-218c is shift fork adjustment

34-219 Cover with reverse lockout assy.

35-1 thru 35-8 77-84 Input Shaft
35-201 thru 35-202 85-on Input Shaft

35-9 thru 35-15 77-84 Pinion Shaft
35-205 thru 35-213 84-on Pinion Shaft

35-17 thru 35-19 Synchros

35-21 thru 35-23 77-84 Countershaft / Layshaft
35-215 thru 35-218 85-86 Countershaft / Layshaft
35-219 thru 35-220 87-on Countershaft / Layshaft

39-1 thru 39-20 77-84 Differential
39-201 thru 39-230 85-on Differential (LSD pages included)
D39-201 thru D39-223 PSD

39-21 thru 39-59 Automatic transaxles

39-61 thru 39-65 Torque Tube / Driveshaft

39-101 thru 39-143 Final Drive / Automatic

Some things that helped me:

The "layshaft" is the shaft inside and supporting the "Countershaft"

For all three section everything after the step where you take out the shift forks / rods ( for disassembly ) is confusing.
I will go over this in the next post.

BToski

72Audi

The small pintle that actuates the back up light switch was no where to be found when I unscrewed the switch. How was that ever going to work Mr. Neanderthal !?
FCOL = For Crying Out Loud

Order up one more item, pn 928 606 241 02
$6 from 928 Specialists

BToski

BC

Dude - suggestion. Sue. Add in your own hourly rate that you charged as a mechanic and put it together with the 2700. And the parts you have to replace.

Maybe get a new backup switch as well. They seem to get cranky.

72Audi

Make a note of this and renumber your books (or add a page)
page 34-214h:

Step 4: Remove the reverse idler shaft. You guys were right. I did not need ANY special tools here. Drive pinion easily rotated to the correct position by hand. Screw any metric bolt ya have into the reverse idler and pull it out by hand. Of course if you have a totally trashed and locked up transmission you may need the special tools.

5a: Removing the layshaft. This is noted at the END of the disassembly in the manual. Why? Have no idea. This was real easy as well. See pics:
1) Remove inside snap ring
2) I have a large ring plier that has square rough flat ends that move farther apart when I squeeze the handles. I inserted this into the end of the layshaft, squeezed, and pulled the layshaft cleanly out, easily. Sometimes life is beautiful.

Step 5b in the next post.

BToski

72Audi

Step 5B:

First pic shows the bearing cover for the pinion shaft in the front of the trans.
It is held in by a very large circlip.

The snap rings was easily compressed and removed with these OTC 8295 pliers that just cost me $100.00
I don't do Harbor Freight China tools.

Next remove the bearing cap. Just clamp two locking vise grip pliers on the ears sticking out for this purpose, sit down in a chair, put one leg up against the trans and pull hard. Mine came right out. Of course my tranny just had an overhaul.

Next we will remove the input shaft.

BToski

72Audi

5C: Remove the O ring that was sealing the bearing cap. Use a toothpic to avoid damaging the aluminum.

5D: Spray carb cleaner around this opening to clean off any debris.

Step 6 in the book: Books says " drive pinion", ... I think they meant to say "input shaft" like they did in pre-87 chapters ! More special tools mentioned here that .... thank goodness .... I did not need.
Here is how I did it .....

First I put the coupling back onto the input shaft, with the bolt screwed in by hand. I removed the tangs off the end of my spigot bearing puller tool. I put the block end of this puller behind the coupler. I slid the weight gently about 20 times and the assembly came out beautifully. No damage to anything. Before it came out all the way I removed the puller and removed it by hand.

BToski

72Audi

This also slid right out the back hole into the diff area.
No special tool needed.

The countershaft lifted right out as did the reverse gear.

Note the buggered main nut. Quite obvious that Mr. "I never make a mistake" used a chisel instead of a proper socket or tool to torque this on. After I get the tool I will be able to check the torque value.
Can't wait ...

I still need the special tool for this.
Anyone willing to rent or sell me theirs ?

Thanks,
Bruce Toski

Vilhuer

Reverse gear shaft was changed and clamp deleted for '87 MY.

You got lucky here. Usually cap do not want to come out so easily.

Same here. Could have been tighter and required pull or push at straight center instead of from the side.

72Audi

This took me a quite a few hours....
The stock armrest is a real piece of crap. Sorry guys !

BToski

72Audi

He likes the 88 better cuz it is stick and faster.
If you want the 82 call Glenn at 248 789-4928
Car is in Boca Raton, Florida. Price unknown, talk with him. Great guy !
Nigerian scammers need not apply .... don't waste your time.

72Audi

despite some dark spots in its history it moves out quite well.

GregBBRD

Sorry, can't resist. Only one of the roll pins that you removed from the 1st/reverse shift fork are proper. The "rolled" pin actually goes in the main shifting selector piece that you were questioning being straight. There is a lot of force on the main shifter selector piece and the required force will shear the "normal" roll pins. There is only one of the "rolled" style pins in the gearbox. That is why one roll pin came out easy and the other was very hard to remove. The "tough" one to remove should not have been there, in the first place.

Don't worry, almost everyone fails to put the correct pin in the correct place. The "pet" shows the pin in the incorrect location, too.....at least it was incorrect the last time I looked.

gb

Vilhuer

This starts to make sense. On '88 S4 we just had thick walled pin off and it was in wrong location compared to PET. Luckily top cover is still off and we can check which of the two places we put it back.