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Rebuilding 1988 manual transaxle after wasting $2710 at local shop

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Old 05-23-2007, 03:59 PM
  #151  
Bill Ball
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Right, in your case the clutch had to some out anyway. BTW, it does look bad, as Jim commented. New PP and correct (updated) arm if you don't have the right one already, and resurfaced flywheel. The bellhousing is the same one as the AT cars, granted with a lot less obstruction, but it should be possible to get a socket on those bolt heads from a couple of angles.
Old 05-24-2007, 12:01 PM
  #152  
72Audi
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Default TSB 8506 re: 1/2/3 synchros

This TSB is not much help either.
Pic is too small with poor resolution and basically they are saying that when the synchro is replaced that one should replace the sleeve as well. (another $400)

argh.

Bruce Toski
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Old 05-24-2007, 12:10 PM
  #153  
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Default New / Rebuilt G2813 transaxles

Just for fun I checked.

928 300 015 13 Transmission complete, G13, new
($9805 from Pelican) but in fact I was told by local dealer NLA

928 300 005 13 Transmission complete, G13, new # is 005 NX, reman.
( $1208 core charge. $7340.00 list price, $5817.00 jobber price from dealer.
(Pelican lists this part number (the old one) for $4300.00)

FYI

Bruce Toski

*** Addendum: Another dealer told me the number for the rebuilt is
928 300 015 MX $8500.00 (IN GERMANY)

Last edited by 72Audi; 05-24-2007 at 07:38 PM.
Old 05-24-2007, 12:35 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by 72Audi
Just for fun I checked.

928 300 015 13 Transmission complete, G13, new
($9805 from Pelican) but in fact I was told by local dealer NLA

928 300 005 13 Transmission complete, G13, new # is 005 NX, reman.
( $1208 core charge. $7340.00 list price, $5817.00 jobber price from dealer.
(Pelican lists this part number (the old one) for $4300.00)

FYI

Bruce Toski

We have a new G28:13 in stock with LSD for $4,500. It was a school training tranmission so we sent it to Greg Brown to be checked over.
Old 05-24-2007, 02:06 PM
  #155  
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WoW, that is tempting ! If it was a training transmission I would have to go thru it all again.
That is a great price though !

Bruce Toski
Old 05-24-2007, 04:07 PM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by 72Audi
WoW, that is tempting ! If it was a training transmission I would have to go thru it all again.
That is a great price though !

Bruce Toski
We are having Greg take it apart and check everything just to be sure.
Old 05-26-2007, 04:46 AM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by Vilhuer
With correct tools they can be taken out IIRR.
We got Matt's TT out w/o removing the clutch. We ended up using a Gearwrench on the upper front 17mm bolts. There was not enough room even for the 5 degree ratchet swing initially. I had to remove the wrench head from the bolt, click it one tooth manually, then move the bolt a tiny amount again. Eventually we were able to swing it several clicks at a time. We only had a fixed head Gearwrench. A flex head would have worked a lot better in dealing with the angles. Also, you could get a socket on the bolts, but swing angle was still an issue.
Old 05-26-2007, 05:45 AM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Also, you could get a socket on the bolts, but swing angle was still an issue.
I have managed to get them move with socket IIRR. It helps to have many different tools which are close to same but not quite. One will fit almost always.
Old 05-26-2007, 06:50 AM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by Vilhuer
It helps to have many different tools which are close to same but not quite. One will fit almost always.
Oh, do I agree with that statement. I didn't bring my flex-heads over to Matt's place.
Old 05-26-2007, 11:00 AM
  #160  
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Greg.

With regards to cutting gears, there is no trick involved. Instead of using dinosaur technology of SC enmills and lathe tools, buy a shell endmill and a insert holder for your lathe with a negative rake off ebay and get some KC850 cutters in whatever configuration you need. With these cutters, you will very infrequently break the cutter edges. Also if you equipment is all worn out or you you don't know how to isolate and hold the workpiece, that will cause vibrations and tend to wear out cutters faster. Buy the right equipment and save some money and don't waste your valuable time. Most mechanics don't understand machining and welding, its not uncommon, but there have been great advances in cutter technology since the 1950's when most good Bridgeport milling machines were made.

Give that a try and feel free to send me a cut of all the money and time you save! You will greatly appreciate it.
Old 05-29-2007, 04:18 PM
  #161  
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Default Hardware kit for exhaust manifold to cats PN 928 111 901 00

Hey gents,

I can't believe ya got the torque tube bolts out without removing the clutch.
Man, you guys are truly wizards.

OK ... pn 928 111 901 00

anyone ever ordered this hardware kit ?

It is supposed to contain:

928 111 127 02 gasket exh manifold to cat, two per vehicle
900 074 287 02 bolt, 8mm x 35mm, five per vehicle
900 074 283 02 bolt, 8mm x 45mm, one per vehicle
999 025 078 02 washer, 8.4 x 17 x 1.5, six per vehicle ?
999 084 052 02 nut, 8mm, six per vehicle

I would hope that this $40 kit has all the required hardware to do both exhausts but I can't be sure because nobody seems to stock this PN.

Plz don't post that I can buy the parts separately. That costs $$$

If anyone has this PN for sale call me.
Bruce Toski
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Old 05-29-2007, 05:37 PM
  #162  
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If PET says exactly those parts are in the kit then they should be included and nothing else.
Old 05-29-2007, 11:02 PM
  #163  
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Default contents of kit 928 111 901 00

Ok guys, please forgive me.
Erkka just showed me how ignorant I am when it comes to PET.
He told me that at the end of each section PET shows the exact contents of each kit listed in that section.

For kit 928 111 901 00 there appears to be enough hardware to do both downtubes properly without ordering a bunch of different numbers.

There are 13 kits in Germany. Definitely going to order one up for my long winded project here.

Thanks again Erkka !

Bruce Toski
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Old 06-02-2007, 02:19 AM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by fst951
Greg.

With regards to cutting gears, there is no trick involved. Instead of using dinosaur technology of SC enmills and lathe tools, buy a shell endmill and a insert holder for your lathe with a negative rake off ebay and get some KC850 cutters in whatever configuration you need. With these cutters, you will very infrequently break the cutter edges. Also if you equipment is all worn out or you you don't know how to isolate and hold the workpiece, that will cause vibrations and tend to wear out cutters faster. Buy the right equipment and save some money and don't waste your valuable time. Most mechanics don't understand machining and welding, its not uncommon, but there have been great advances in cutter technology since the 1950's when most good Bridgeport milling machines were made.

Give that a try and feel free to send me a cut of all the money and time you save! You will greatly appreciate it.
Gee, dad, thanks for the advice. If you are ever in the area, stop by and show me how to do this. Right now, I'm going to grab my hammer and dull chisel and head out to the shade tree to work on another one of them there cars.

I hope I don't loose another gosh darn tooth today...I've only got four or five left and it's getting really hard to eat crow.

gb
Old 06-02-2007, 02:54 AM
  #165  
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Would it be better to find a good used gearbox, or is yours repairable for a reasonable cost? Sounds like you are getting in pretty deep.


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