Rebuilding 1988 manual transaxle after wasting $2710 at local shop
#31
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The lame factory manual only seems to show pics and talk about the early "bolts on both ends" halfshafts.
I did a search but could not find a walk thru for replacing the outer CV boot on this 88 halfshaft. I have found in the past that these are a real pain in the ****. Getting the CV joint apart to allow removal of the old boot and installation of the new one ... that is ......
Anyone done this before?
Not doing at this instant .... just thinking ahead ... will have to repair the one shaft that the local shop ruined.
BT
I did a search but could not find a walk thru for replacing the outer CV boot on this 88 halfshaft. I have found in the past that these are a real pain in the ****. Getting the CV joint apart to allow removal of the old boot and installation of the new one ... that is ......
Anyone done this before?
Not doing at this instant .... just thinking ahead ... will have to repair the one shaft that the local shop ruined.
BT
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Mine has a few degrees of play in the swivel joint.
Not alot.
Don't have a new one, yet, to compare.
Anyone have a new one ?
If a new one has no play and does not cost a gazillion dollars .... will be replacing this as well.
Looks like part number 928 424 029 00
Whoops ..... looks like No Longer Available !
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ht=928+424+029
Anyone have an extra for sale ?
Thanks in advance,
Bruce Toski
Not alot.
Don't have a new one, yet, to compare.
Anyone have a new one ?
If a new one has no play and does not cost a gazillion dollars .... will be replacing this as well.
Looks like part number 928 424 029 00
Whoops ..... looks like No Longer Available !
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ht=928+424+029
Anyone have an extra for sale ?
Thanks in advance,
Bruce Toski
#33
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Originally Posted by 72Audi
The lame factory manual only seems to show pics and talk about the early "bolts on both ends" halfshafts.
I did a search but could not find a walk thru for replacing the outer CV boot on this 88 halfshaft. I have found in the past that these are a real pain in the ****. Getting the CV joint apart to allow removal of the old boot and installation of the new one ... that is ......
Anyone done this before?
Not doing at this instant .... just thinking ahead ... will have to repair the one shaft that the local shop ruined.
BT
I did a search but could not find a walk thru for replacing the outer CV boot on this 88 halfshaft. I have found in the past that these are a real pain in the ****. Getting the CV joint apart to allow removal of the old boot and installation of the new one ... that is ......
Anyone done this before?
Not doing at this instant .... just thinking ahead ... will have to repair the one shaft that the local shop ruined.
BT
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Oh ! I see !
Ok, well it appears that the inner bearing comes off without too much difficulty.
Getting the boots should not be too big a deal.
I have quite a few boots around here for my old 72 Audi.
Will see if any are the same before ordering up some $$$ boots from Porsche.
Thanks !
BT
Ok, well it appears that the inner bearing comes off without too much difficulty.
Getting the boots should not be too big a deal.
I have quite a few boots around here for my old 72 Audi.
Will see if any are the same before ordering up some $$$ boots from Porsche.
Thanks !
BT
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I can lift my shifter assy up and down a little.
There is about 3mm of play where the shift tube goes thru the bearing j( #4 in the attached parts diagram) just forward of the shifter. (inside the sound absorber chamber).
No spec in the factory manual for allowed movement up and down.
Do all your cars have this movement or should I consider replacing this bearing bracket as well while in here ....
BToski
*** Addendum: I inspected mine more closely and found that this rubber support was sort of integral with the metal carrier and the center area HAD a plastic bushing (20mm ID) for the hollow shift linkage tube. There were no markings on the rubber support area and I did not hold much hope out for finding one so I ordered a new one from 928 Specialists. $148.00
Ouch.
Gotta have it though. I don't want any question marks when I put this all back together.
BT
There is about 3mm of play where the shift tube goes thru the bearing j( #4 in the attached parts diagram) just forward of the shifter. (inside the sound absorber chamber).
No spec in the factory manual for allowed movement up and down.
Do all your cars have this movement or should I consider replacing this bearing bracket as well while in here ....
BToski
*** Addendum: I inspected mine more closely and found that this rubber support was sort of integral with the metal carrier and the center area HAD a plastic bushing (20mm ID) for the hollow shift linkage tube. There were no markings on the rubber support area and I did not hold much hope out for finding one so I ordered a new one from 928 Specialists. $148.00
Ouch.
![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Gotta have it though. I don't want any question marks when I put this all back together.
BT
Last edited by 72Audi; 05-29-2007 at 04:24 PM. Reason: update
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the shifter coupling always has some play in it. you can purchase just the plastic inserts from one of the online vendors. i wouldn't just purchase the entire assembly, it's a waste. i think the plastic inserts are a 911 part.
#37
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I am getting so tired of inept people who purport to be able to do work on a car. You should have charged it and taken the guy to small claims after a stop-charge.
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It is becoming harder and harder to find good mechanics.
I use a local mechanic whom I can speak to and we sort things out, he is also of the kind who focuses on 'making it work', and not so much about doing things by the book.
Having used both this mechanic and the brand-shop for my old BMW (the Porsche is older, though..), I can not say I am impressed by the brand-shop.
When it comes to the 928, this car is more special and also requires that everything is in tune to make it work, short-cuts will not make it on the Shark.
I think that it is not a good idea to own such a car if you do not have the interest and skills to at least find out what has to be done yourself, something that this and also other threads have stated.
I use a local mechanic whom I can speak to and we sort things out, he is also of the kind who focuses on 'making it work', and not so much about doing things by the book.
Having used both this mechanic and the brand-shop for my old BMW (the Porsche is older, though..), I can not say I am impressed by the brand-shop.
When it comes to the 928, this car is more special and also requires that everything is in tune to make it work, short-cuts will not make it on the Shark.
I think that it is not a good idea to own such a car if you do not have the interest and skills to at least find out what has to be done yourself, something that this and also other threads have stated.
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OKV,
Love the pic of the mountains !
Looks like a beautiful area to sport around in your 928.
Ok, got the differential cover off. No sweat ... just some 13mm 6 point head bolts. Found some gold metal particles sitting in the oil in the bottom of the chamber here. Diff gears appear to be ok.
BT
Love the pic of the mountains !
Looks like a beautiful area to sport around in your 928.
Ok, got the differential cover off. No sweat ... just some 13mm 6 point head bolts. Found some gold metal particles sitting in the oil in the bottom of the chamber here. Diff gears appear to be ok.
BT
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On the differential cover, the Porsche gasket with Permatex Hylomar HPF gasket dressing works great. Doesn't dry, so cleanup is easy if you ever remove the cover again.
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Thanks Borland,
Just removed both axle flanges. The 17mm head bolt on one side came off with about 5lbs of torque, the other side about 15lbs of torque. Factory spec on page 39-203 is 31ft/lb.
The "I never make a mistake" mechanic ..... strikes again.
Additionally you can see that the oil seal that rides on this flange ... was never replaced ( as there is sludge inside the fold of the sealing groove). There is silver paint overspray on the seals. How lame can ya get ? These seals are not even hard to replace !
BT
Just removed both axle flanges. The 17mm head bolt on one side came off with about 5lbs of torque, the other side about 15lbs of torque. Factory spec on page 39-203 is 31ft/lb.
The "I never make a mistake" mechanic ..... strikes again.
Additionally you can see that the oil seal that rides on this flange ... was never replaced ( as there is sludge inside the fold of the sealing groove). There is silver paint overspray on the seals. How lame can ya get ? These seals are not even hard to replace !
BT
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Car here is VIN WP0JB0927JS860115
Transaxle case number is 928 301 102
Numbers on bottom of differential: G2813 1J 00501
Factory manual on page 30-0201 (printed 1993) says,
" * Model '88 / 89 standard with limited slip (40%). "
This does not look like limited slip to me (no expert on this subject)
see previous pic....
Should I assume that the shop stole the limited slip and snuck in a regular set of diff. gears ?
Don't want to make this accusation unless I am sure that all numbers here are correct...
BT
Transaxle case number is 928 301 102
Numbers on bottom of differential: G2813 1J 00501
Factory manual on page 30-0201 (printed 1993) says,
" * Model '88 / 89 standard with limited slip (40%). "
This does not look like limited slip to me (no expert on this subject)
see previous pic....
Should I assume that the shop stole the limited slip and snuck in a regular set of diff. gears ?
Don't want to make this accusation unless I am sure that all numbers here are correct...
BT
Last edited by 72Audi; 05-23-2007 at 08:38 PM.
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Thanks Tom,
Sticker only has option 650 whatever that is .....
Looks like the $1200 manuals are wrong again.
928 Specialists website concurs with you ..... looks like LSD not standard until 1989.
BT
Sticker only has option 650 whatever that is .....
Looks like the $1200 manuals are wrong again.
928 Specialists website concurs with you ..... looks like LSD not standard until 1989.
BT