RDS928S

Carl,
any options for upper A-arms for an early 86 car?
I would love to swap out the oem units for yours.

Regards
Rich

BTY the hypercoil springs are the single best upgrade yet for my car.
The ride and handling are telapathic.
Thanks

atb

Bravo Carl !

Another winning combination of improved design, price point, and performance.

Carl Fausett

RDS928S - Glad you like the Hypercoil setup so much. They receive many, many positive comments.

At this time, I have no intention of making the early upper a arm in the tube steel setup as they are
pretty lightweight, and serviceable. Maybe, MAYBE, someday. There are so many parts "in the works" right now I cannot pu tthis one in play at this moment.

greg928GTS

Any more information on these?

I need to replace the upper A-arms in mine.

Greg

SharkSkin

Very interesting product. I guess I missed this thread first time around.

Carl, considering these are intended for street use, you might want to consider incorporating some sort of cap to prevent crud from collecting in the top of the ball joint. You may find that there is a standard size front wheel bearing cap that does the job for $1-$2/side.

Giovanni

Carl,

Any plans for the lower urethane bushings for the a-arms?

Carl Fausett

I like the idea of a weather cap on the ball joint for street use. Good thought there - I can do that.

I have no plans to make poly upper a-arm bushings as they are already available from Mark at 928 International. They work well, I sell them.

As to the status of these upper a-arms, I have a L and a R in my hands and we are just waiting on final fittment testing. I am swamped with the finishing of the 1985/86 supercharger kit and the preparation of my car for Pike's Peak and am unable to throw them on my '91 just to drive them around.

If one of you would like a discount for being that guy and providing photos to me of them installed on their car, let me know. Otherwise, they will have to wait a bit longer before I can install them on one of my own 928's.

BC

What kind of Discount.

BC

Gio meant LOWER front A arm bushings, the LARGE ones that are sometimes very squishy.

I may make some Gio.

Giovanni

Cool Brendan, last time I checked with 928Intl they were no longer selling them, something to do with fitment issue.

So far the radiator hose is holding up , I will get with you as soon as I need a pair made.

Thanks

BC

They are a bit funky, but I think they will be okay. I haven't installed them, but to get them on in the same dimensions as the originals, they needed some trimming. They were from a now-non-existent australian webpage.

Carl Fausett

Looks like we will be test fitting them on Moon's 1988 S4.

We have already stress-tested them and we know that they are plenty strong - that is not an issue. They also are the right dimensional specs compared to the original. The installation in a 928 is to make sure they do not interfere with any other components and to get photos we need for the installation instructions.

We re-use the bolts that are in the OEM upper a-arms. After you get your upper a-arms out, spin the nut back on the mounting bolt and pound out the mounting stud with a hammer (or use a press if you have it). Then put the mounting stud in the new crossbrace and install into the car.

Attached are some photos I took of a 1986 Corvette. A heavier car, with more weight on the front spindles than we have. Look at these factory upper A Arms!

SharkSkin

Carl, I was looking more closely at the pivot shaft and A-arm that are only held together with circlips and no thrust washers. It would seem that especially under braking on uneven surfaces, this is going to bear on the circlips in a manner that makes me wonder about the longevity of the assembly. I know that circlips are much stronger than they look, but the apparent lack of thrust washer seems less than ideal.

I did a quick Google search and found a much stronger-looking example here



It's a bit trickier to manufacture -- the shoulders on the pivot shaft that give it the strength prevent later disassembly -- but all they have to do is weld the two legs to their pivot tubes, ream to spec, assemble with bushings to the pivot shaft, then finally weld the plate with the 4 holes on.

Any thoughts on the merits of starting off with a stronger assemby of this nature?

Also, I assume there is a boot that seals the lower side of the ball joint -- true?

Carl Fausett

I'lll review the need (or lack thereof) for thrust washers with my design engineer again. If I recall the design drawings, there is a shoulder on our mounting bar although I can admit that you cannot see it in the pictures. I'll go check.

There is no boot on the bottom side of the ball joint because there is no ball joint. Our design uses a sealed spherical bearing instead.

Carl Fausett

Keep that in mind - I am trying to keep the price down. Read above and people are already hacking on the price. Don't think I want to make them more expensive.

Not that I would sacrifice safety to make a price point. No way.

Again, I will check to majke sure the shoulders on the inner mounting bar are there like I remember seeing them in the drawings.