nexty226

No , when you finish with the dremel tool, you'll then have a very thin pice and it will crack on the first time you close the back lid

Bill Ball

Argh.

nexty226

That's too bad. I would liked to give you good news, sorry mate...

fraggle

Good news but sad I suppose.

Need that cnc solution!!!

nexty226

I had to change mine (broken) with a car that was litler bit more good than mine, but now I don't have a core to try to make it un my cnc. Im using the shark so for now I can't take it off to measure it and trying. Someone have a broken one? So I could put me mind to it and make it.

Bilal928S4

So yesterday I decided to work on my upper latch for the hatch. Here are some pictures of the differences of the allarm version vs non alarm version. The casting of the body is quite different and it does not seem possible to put the guts of the alarm version into the non alarm version.

Bilal928S4

I installed the non alarm version from Roger. Thanks Roger. The only difference is that you have to use the new key to open the hatch and that the alarm will not be unarmed. So if the car is locked and the alarm is armed (usually it arms automatically when you lock the car), when you open the hatch the alarm goes off.
The squeeking of the hatch has been totally eliminated.
However, I cannot get my hatch to open remotely with the switch on the side of the seat.

Bilal928S4

The motor for the release cycles through the entire range. The bottom hatch bar moves through its 90 degree motion but does not release the upper hatch. I tried it manually and with the motor in place and it looks like the bar does not protude enough into the 'hole' to release the white part. Both the new and old upper hatch latch did not work.

Bilal928S4

Here are some pictures

nexty226

Thas's why we can't use the non alarm version. Hey what are your planing to do with the alarm housing that you have?

Bill Ball

Bilal:

Thanks for the clear exposé on the differences between the alarm and non-alarm upper latch housings. That nails that question down.

As to your release issues, one solution Alan came up with is to put several tie wraps around that bar to help it push the tongue enough to release the hatch.

Bilal928S4

Bill,
I had done that trick and it worked with the original latch until, as you can see in the pictures, it cracked completely on one side. But I do not see any wear on the release bar or on the lower housing. So after I put the new latch in, I expected it to work properly.
I guess now I have to replace the bottom one also.

Bilal928S4

Nexty226,
I was waiting for somebody to manufacture a housing so that I could transfer all the innards from my original one into it.
I can lend it to you for prototyping, but need assurance that I will get it back as it is keyed to the rest of my locks.

Bill Ball

Bilal: I'm not sure why the bottom end is not working. The metal bar should not wear and I think the tie wrap fix was to compensate for wear on the other parts. Perhaps it's a positioning problem - there is a little play in the mounting of the parts that might have some effect. I haven't had to deal with that.

nexty226

Bilal I will send it to you exactly as it is, and my promise that when I have done the drawings, mail it to you the same day. Of course there will be a discount from mu part on the pice ;-)