Bill Ball

Roger - thanks for clearing up that mystery. Nicole, it looks like you have the wrong part.

Nicole

Thanks, guys, for the info!

Ron: Are you sure it's an iginition lock problem that you have, and not the ignition switch?

Ron_H

I think it is a key problem. All my locks including the ignition are vague and sometimes jammed up. Silicone is the best remedy so far but it only lasts a few days. The locksmith took one look at my keys and shook her head, then walked off snickering and chuckling. (OK, I made up the snickering part). She advised new keys were in order. I can buy a new ignition cylinder from 928 Intl. and send all the other locks to them for re-keying at $25 per cylinder. That way I will have new cylinders and one good new key.

mj1pate

Bill, I am rebuilding a 86.5 non-alarm lock. Where you have two small philips head screws holding the housing together, I have two small metal pins or rivets. Are these to be drilled out? Or punched thru?

Thanks

Mike

SeanR

On the non alarm ones you can just pop out the pin and replace the white thing and the spring. Position spring correctly, test and reinstall.

Did mine a couple of weeks ago.

Ron_H

In the first photo above, there is a plastic fastener holding the upholstered trim to the body. Does anyone know where I can buy some of them? Or better yet, I had planned to replace them with black screws and the washers used to secure the carpet to the bottom of the door, so I can take them out and replace the panel at will without trying to pop the plastic ones on or off.

mj1pate

Right...But the housing comes apart as Bill illustrated, so that you have access to the area just below the tumbler cyllinder. Bill's alarm lock is held by two small screws. My non-alarm is held together by small rivets in the same location. I'm looking to know if the rivets holding the housing together need to be drilled out, or punched thru. I need to have the "new-used" lock cylinder reset for my key. I suspect that taking the housing apart gives cylinder access for a locksmith. I know that J. Bailey does this, but before I ship 10 ozs back and forth across the country, I'm looking to see if I can make the lock cylinder available to a local locksmith.

Mike

Bill Ball

I think what Sean is indicating is that in the case of a non-alarm latch you don't even need to remove those little pins and the cover, just the main pin going through the tongue.

Nicole

Your favorite Porsche Parts Supplier, maybe???


You can do this with the above as well. They are two part clips - you lift the inner part and pull the whole thing out. Then you stick them back in and press the inner part in. No need to screw around with corrosive materials...

Bill Ball

If you used screws, they would need to be rather fat ones.

mj1pate

Not exactly...but being a little more diligent found what I was looking for in extracting the lock cylinder:
http://www.928.org.uk/mambo/content/view/56/43/

Your guide for how to replace the tongue will complete the task....

Mike

jpitman2

The plastic catches for the trim are readily available, - at least I bought a bunch recently from the dealer to replace some previous fathead's screws there. They come moulded in one piece, and you insert the inner into the hole, then push the centre tongue in and its fastened. When you next pull the tongue out, it will come away completely, so dont lose it.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k

Ron_H

Thanks. I'll get some. I know about them getting lost easily. I am missing some already since I replaced my hatch lock.

CaseyH

http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...591%20564%2040

Ron_H

If anyone has a cracked latch housing like I do, a machinist friend of mine is going to fabricate a thin sheet aluminum fix that he will rivet to the housing, or so he claims. He wants to use what he calls shallow rivets, though I think we might have trouble clearing the body of the female housing that sits in the body of the car. Anyway we shall try. FWIW, if it works I'll report back. I really don't know why a new housing could not be fabricated from stronger metal, or cast and finished, and then painted. Anyone interested in trying? I know a foundry in this area that can probably do one for a reasonable cost using the original as a pattern.