How do you remove/disassemble the hatch upper latch? Now - Hatch rattle fix.
#18
928 Barrister
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I think it is a key problem. All my locks including the ignition are vague and sometimes jammed up. Silicone is the best remedy so far but it only lasts a few days. The locksmith took one look at my keys and shook her head, then walked off snickering and chuckling. (OK, I made up the snickering part). She advised new keys were in order. I can buy a new ignition cylinder from 928 Intl. and send all the other locks to them for re-keying at $25 per cylinder. That way I will have new cylinders and one good new key.
#19
Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Remove 2 tiny Philips head screw shown in the 2nd image above and pull apart the housing.
Thanks
Mike
#20
On the non alarm ones you can just pop out the pin and replace the white thing and the spring. Position spring correctly, test and reinstall.
Did mine a couple of weeks ago.
Did mine a couple of weeks ago.
#21
928 Barrister
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In the first photo above, there is a plastic fastener holding the upholstered trim to the body. Does anyone know where I can buy some of them? Or better yet, I had planned to replace them with black screws and the washers used to secure the carpet to the bottom of the door, so I can take them out and replace the panel at will without trying to pop the plastic ones on or off.
#22
Originally Posted by SeanR
On the non alarm ones you can just pop out the pin and replace the white thing and the spring. Position spring correctly, test and reinstall.
Did mine a couple of weeks ago.
Did mine a couple of weeks ago.
Mike
#23
Under the Lift
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Thread Starter
I think what Sean is indicating is that in the case of a non-alarm latch you don't even need to remove those little pins and the cover, just the main pin going through the tongue.
#24
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Originally Posted by Ron_H
In the first photo above, there is a plastic fastener holding the upholstered trim to the body. Does anyone know where I can buy some of them?
Originally Posted by Ron_H
Or better yet, I had planned to replace them with black screws and the washers used to secure the carpet to the bottom of the door, so I can take them out and replace the panel at will without trying to pop the plastic ones on or off.
#26
Originally Posted by Bill Ball
I think what Sean is indicating is that in the case of a non-alarm latch you don't even need to remove those little pins and the cover, just the main pin going through the tongue.
http://www.928.org.uk/mambo/content/view/56/43/
Your guide for how to replace the tongue will complete the task....
Mike
#27
Rennlist Member
The plastic catches for the trim are readily available, - at least I bought a bunch recently from the dealer to replace some previous fathead's screws there. They come moulded in one piece, and you insert the inner into the hole, then push the centre tongue in and its fastened. When you next pull the tongue out, it will come away completely, so dont lose it.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
#29
Originally Posted by Ron_H
In the first photo above, there is a plastic fastener holding the upholstered trim to the body. Does anyone know where I can buy some of them? Or better yet, I had planned to replace them with black screws and the washers used to secure the carpet to the bottom of the door, so I can take them out and replace the panel at will without trying to pop the plastic ones on or off.
#30
928 Barrister
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If anyone has a cracked latch housing like I do, a machinist friend of mine is going to fabricate a thin sheet aluminum fix that he will rivet to the housing, or so he claims. He wants to use what he calls shallow rivets, though I think we might have trouble clearing the body of the female housing that sits in the body of the car. Anyway we shall try. FWIW, if it works I'll report back. I really don't know why a new housing could not be fabricated from stronger metal, or cast and finished, and then painted. Anyone interested in trying? I know a foundry in this area that can probably do one for a reasonable cost using the original as a pattern.