Would pan gasket change be easy if in two pieces
#1
Would pan gasket change be easy if in two pieces
I have not changed my gasket (not yet leaking) but I have read that the change is very involved. Would it be straight forward if the cork gasket was in two pieces?
If so, has anyone tried it?
If so, has anyone tried it?
#2
how would it seal? It hardly does it in one pices right now. I don't think you'd buy anything at all with a 2-piece gasket because a one-piece can go where a 2-piece could under all circumstances. it's just a big cork lasso.
#3
It can be done by cutting the gasket ..... and this has held for ~3 years without a drip.
However, it you have a newer car with the tube type oil pickup ( vs the built in screen on the early 16v motors), the same method can be used to loop a gasket under the tube without cutting the gasket .... or snaking your arm in to unbolt ( whoops - dropped the 'effin bolt ) the tube.
However, it you have a newer car with the tube type oil pickup ( vs the built in screen on the early 16v motors), the same method can be used to loop a gasket under the tube without cutting the gasket .... or snaking your arm in to unbolt ( whoops - dropped the 'effin bolt ) the tube.
#5
Originally Posted by Garth S
It can be done by cutting the gasket ..... and this has held for ~3 years without a drip.
However, it you have a newer car with the tube type oil pickup ( vs the built in screen on the early 16v motors), the same method can be used to loop a gasket under the tube without cutting the gasket .... or snaking your arm in to unbolt ( whoops - dropped the 'effin bolt ) the tube.
However, it you have a newer car with the tube type oil pickup ( vs the built in screen on the early 16v motors), the same method can be used to loop a gasket under the tube without cutting the gasket .... or snaking your arm in to unbolt ( whoops - dropped the 'effin bolt ) the tube.
#6
Originally Posted by JP Rodkey
I did remember someone(s) had done it. Good to know it's working out well for you. I get a bit **** about such things, and would likely be a bit paranoid (frequent checking and otherwise fretting a bit). More of a mental thing than anything else.
From one of my early careers in nuclear/chemical industry, it is common practice to cut and end glue O-rings in place for pressurized ancillary services.
#7
From one of my early careers in nuclear/chemical industry, it is common practice to cut and end glue O-rings in place for pressurized ancillary services.
Just kidding. It just seems counterintuitive to put a crease in a gasket that's got a bolt every 3 inches in an effort to maintain even seal/pressure.
I have considered snaking it around everything to see if it would work, but not cutting it.
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#8
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I have considered snaking it around everything to see if it would work, but not cutting it.
Marton
#9
Originally Posted by NJSharkFan
You didn't work for NASA by any chance, did you?
Just kidding. It just seems counterintuitive to put a crease in a gasket that's got a bolt every 3 inches in an effort to maintain even seal/pressure.
I have considered snaking it around everything to see if it would work, but not cutting it.
Just kidding. It just seems counterintuitive to put a crease in a gasket that's got a bolt every 3 inches in an effort to maintain even seal/pressure.
I have considered snaking it around everything to see if it would work, but not cutting it.
Basically the same for flat gaskets .... cut for max surface area and butt splice to not increase gasket thickness - no crease involved.
On your '85, I would snake the gasket under the pick-up: cannot do that on earlier cars ....
#10
Originally Posted by Garth S
It can be done by cutting the gasket ..... and this has held for ~3 years without a drip.
However, it you have a newer car with the tube type oil pickup ( vs the built in screen on the early 16v motors), the same method can be used to loop a gasket under the tube without cutting the gasket .... or snaking your arm in to unbolt ( whoops - dropped the 'effin bolt ) the tube.
However, it you have a newer car with the tube type oil pickup ( vs the built in screen on the early 16v motors), the same method can be used to loop a gasket under the tube without cutting the gasket .... or snaking your arm in to unbolt ( whoops - dropped the 'effin bolt ) the tube.
#11
NJ - it that a real short wheel version of the 928? neato.
On the pan gasket seperation, can we utilize the a similar method as surgeon's for tendon repair, split, cut, interwoven, and obviously not stitched. Simplicstically, you know kind of like 2 L's placed together to accomodate for the pressure on mounting and still maintain a good seal?
On the pan gasket seperation, can we utilize the a similar method as surgeon's for tendon repair, split, cut, interwoven, and obviously not stitched. Simplicstically, you know kind of like 2 L's placed together to accomodate for the pressure on mounting and still maintain a good seal?
#12
Originally Posted by heinrich
Why not just fit the oil pan through the big hole in the gasket?
#13
There is no need to cut the gasket as there is no need for a cork gasket anymore.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/237875-first-928-oil-pan-sealed-with-gasket-from-realgasket.html
Pan can stay below the motor with the snorkel attached, easy enough...
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/237875-first-928-oil-pan-sealed-with-gasket-from-realgasket.html
Pan can stay below the motor with the snorkel attached, easy enough...
#14
Originally Posted by heinrich
Why not just fit the oil pan through the big hole in the gasket?